#1
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A wind too far. Restring per Taylor
I put a set of Martin Retro lights on my Fender PM-2 mahogany this afternoon, and for the first time ever, didn't to the under-then-hook-up thing.
A video I watched showing the no-hook Taylor way had me precutting the strings one to one-and-a-quarter post spaces long. This resulted in about one full string wrap more winding, compared to what I've been doing forever. Maybe it's better because the string is coming off the post a little closer to post base, by a diameter or so of string. It's just unfamiliar, though, and we're all creatures of habit. I like the Retros, though. Both in sound and feel.
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______________________________________ Naples, FL 1972 Martin D18 (Kimsified, so there!) Alvarez Yairi PYM70 Yamaha LS-TA with sunburst finish Republic parlor resonator Too many ukeleles |
#2
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I use a version of the Taylor system and always get just the two to three wraps I want. I’ve gotten to the point that I know exactly how much string to feed in so that I don’t have to do any cutting. Quick, clean, easy...and stable
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Walker Clark Fork (Adi/Honduran Rosewood) Edmonds OM-28RS - Sunburst (Adi/Old Growth Honduran) |
#3
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yeah - me too
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#4
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I use a variation of the Taylor method - no pre-cut. Then the excess string is trimmed as close to the post as practical. I also shoot for three winds minimum on E and A, four winds on D and G, and six winds on B and e. Using alternate tunings a lot, the extra winds reduce string breakage.
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#5
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Retros sound great on anything Mahogany or Maple but not great on Rosewood. I use the Taylor method of pre-cutting all 6 strings but I do an over/under wrap so the cut end is pinched. Totally non-necessary but I’ve been doing it that way for 20 years. I use a power winder so extra wraps don’t worry me. I cut the bass E at the A post and each one a bit longer so by the time I’m at the treble E I cut it at the G string. The key is that the lower pert of the string hole is well covered. It’s usually when the string is pinched right at the sharp corner of the string hole where breakage happens.
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#6
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Taylor method for me and it always come out clean. Once you get it the first time you'll get it every other time as well.
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#7
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I too use the Taylor method since watching a video many years ago. Never have had any issues, not even a broken string.
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#8
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I used the Taylor method for a few years, then I found this... it's better in several ways, no fiddling with getting the right length of string. Also the method locks the string in much better.
https://guitarrepairers.com/how-to-r...g-your-guitar/ He's also got a video: https://youtu.be/-6r4J5D0dCE I've bought several guitars from him, he's a real character and his shop is full of amazing restored old guitars. One friend, who I showed the technique to dismissed it saying it would be hard to get the strings off when it's time to change again, I would have used this technique for 3 or 4 years now and never had any trouble. |
#9
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Quote:
I do something similar, wrapping the strings around the post before inserting the end. But I don't do the lock with the string over the top. With two tight wraps, it's really not necessary. Even with the lock, it's so much faster and neat than anything else I've tried. I do precut the strings on my slothead though. |
#10
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Hmm, I use them on rosewood.
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#11
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Interesting, May have to try it. Several different ways to restring and I am sure the proponents of each method.
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2007 Indiana Scout 2018 Indiana Madison Quilt Elite 2018 Takamine GJ72CE 12-String 2019 Takamine GD93 2022 Takamine GJ72CE 6-String 2022 Cort GA-QF CBB 1963 Gibson SG 2016 Kala uke Dean A style mandolin. (Year unknown) Lotus L80 (1984ish) Plus a few lower end I have had for years |