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#2
03-22-2020, 08:33 PM
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I've had two... Epiphone DR400 and a Alvarez AP? Parlor... This one was on sale for $169 but both guitars sounded great until I did the post-note test...and found the bridge was lifting..the Epiphone was the worse...
I sent both back... I really like both of them... I haven't had a problem with the Ibanez AW54CEOPN I bought to replace them.. 
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#3
03-22-2020, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
My 150 dollar Aria has lots of problems, but it doesn’t even have such an issue. The bridge is tight as anything.
__________________
2020 Yamaha LL56 Custom 2021 Boucher SG-51-BMV 2020 RainSong CO-WS1000N2 2019 PRS Silver Sky
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#4
03-22-2020, 08:38 PM
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Re-reading your post I feel I might have misunderstood your question, but I’m not totally sure.
__________________
2020 Yamaha LL56 Custom 2021 Boucher SG-51-BMV 2020 RainSong CO-WS1000N2 2019 PRS Silver Sky
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#5
03-22-2020, 08:43 PM
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No, bridge lift is bad news in any guitar and particularly unacceptable in a higher end guitar that should be of the highest construction standards.
__________________
In the end it is about who you love above yourself and what you have stood for and lived for that make the difference...
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#6
03-22-2020, 08:43 PM
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If you place a straight edge on the top east to west just south of the bridge it should not be completely flat if that’s what you are asking. It should be uniform looking. Highest in the centre and uniformly dropping lower from the centre out to the edges. At the edges there should be a 1/4 inch or less gap on each side from the bottom of the straight edge and the guitar top. As I understand it.
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2020 Yamaha LL56 Custom 2021 Boucher SG-51-BMV 2020 RainSong CO-WS1000N2 2019 PRS Silver Sky
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#7
03-22-2020, 10:06 PM
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I think we are talking 2 things here, the radius of the top (a straight edge should rock slightly) and the integrity of the bridge adhesion (you shouldn't be able to slide anything under the bridge).
__________________
The Bard Rocks Fay OM Sinker Redwood/Tiger Myrtle Sexauer L00 Adk/Magnolia For Sale Hatcher Jumbo Bearclaw/"Bacon" Padauk Goodall Jumbo POC/flamed Mahogany Appollonio 12 POC/Myrtle MJ Franks Resonator, all Australian Blackwood Blackbird "Lucky 13" - carbon fiber '31 National Duolian + many other stringed instruments.
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#8
03-22-2020, 11:46 PM
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Bridge lift is not unheard of But it is not common. If you’re seeing your bridge change you need to have it checked out sooner rather than later.
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#9
03-23-2020, 07:13 AM
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Typically when people say 'bridge lift' they are talking about the bridge de-laminating from the top. I think what you are talking about is bridge rotation. Many luthiers today see about 2deg as ideal for bridge rotation and the production of good tone. It's a general rule of course but seems to work well. So if anything in higher end guitars you will see more of that then in lower end over built factory guitars.
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#10
03-23-2020, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
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#12
03-23-2020, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
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#13
03-23-2020, 10:01 AM
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I had a bridge "lifting" on a used Alvarez RD20s (like the one I have now, great inexpensive guitar) that I bought from a private seller on eBay. That started a war of words between me and the seller who told me to prove it ... so I went to my local guitar shop for confirmation ... and that it wasn't that way when he sent it to me (right, huh). However I did contact an Alvarez spokesman who did tell me that for some reason on some of the Alvarez guitars when they were made overseas the blue or whatever adhesive that was used was not spread on completely to cover the underside of the saddle. So he said maybe the saddle itself was not lifting but I had encountered a void where there was no adhesive. I don't know.
Now when I call a shop to get an appraisal of a used guitar I always ask to check for a lifting bridge. In fact I called recently on a couple of used acoustics at Guitar Center and the salesmen did tell me it seemed that the bridges were starting to lift. So, sorry for being so wordy, I am just suggesting that maybe the bridge isn't lifting but is just a sign of lazy/cheap construction.
__________________
Martin X1-DE Epiphone AJ500MNS Alvarez AD30 Alvarez AD710 Alvarez RD20S Esteban American Legacy Rogue mandolin
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#14
03-23-2020, 10:19 AM
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I don't see the distinction. Some bridges lift because they were improperly glued. In many cases, there is finish under the edges, which was left to prevent any finish chipping or cracking which sometimes occurs when all the finish is removed. Wood glue will not stick to a finished surface. Regluing a loose bridge is by far the most common structural repair. Besides improper gluing, the other main reason is overheating.
Some cheaper Asian guitars have the bridges attached with super glue.
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#15
03-23-2020, 11:42 AM
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Disclaimer - I am a hobbyist luthier and repairman. I'm sure there will be great disagreement with what I post, but as with many things in life you have your facts and I have mine.
 Years ago I did a mockup of a guitar top and pinned bridge. Briefly, with the bridge sitting on the top (not glued), no pins, and the bridge slotted with the ball ends snugged against the bridge plate, the bridge pulled forward (toward the nut) a couple of mm, and the back lifted a mm or so. With pins in, which acted as stops to keep the bridge from sliding forward, the back lifted a mm or so. This again was without the bridge being glued down. My take home lesson from this is if the strings are properly installed, with the ball ends snugged against an intact bridge plate, that even if the bridge to top glue joint is failing, the tail end of the bridge might lift a little, but it will never fail completely and probably won't progress significantly over time.
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