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Old 03-17-2020, 08:43 PM
gibpicker gibpicker is offline
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Default New Eastman E1OM won't stay in tune

I've only had it for not even two weeks with hopes of the problem to go away with the org. strings still on, but it's still there. Also, the turners are pretty stiff and it takes a lot of turning to bring the tuning up or down. Any ideas other than changing them out? Thanks.
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Old 03-17-2020, 08:59 PM
nikpearson nikpearson is offline
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Default Things to look at...

Poor tuning stability can be down to several factors including:

1) How well the nut slots have been cut
2) How well the strings are seated in the bridge/bridge pins
3) Varying temperature and/or humidity
4) Neck stability
5) The strings themselves
6) The tuners

The last three are less likely to be the cause of the issue. Even stiff tuners, poor quality tuners will hold a string in tune, they’re just unpleasant to use.

My suggestion would be if possible to take the instrument back to the shop you bought it from for advice. If this isn’t an option are you able to return the guitar? The last suggestion would be to get the guitar looked at by an experienced luthier or tech. The problem with this last option is there’ll be a cost involved.
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:44 PM
gibpicker gibpicker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikpearson View Post
Poor tuning stability can be down to several factors including:

1) How well the nut slots have been cut
2) How well the strings are seated in the bridge/bridge pins
3) Varying temperature and/or humidity
4) Neck stability
5) The strings themselves
6) The tuners

The last three are less likely to be the cause of the issue. Even stiff tuners, poor quality tuners will hold a string in tune, they’re just unpleasant to use.

My suggestion would be if possible to take the instrument back to the shop you bought it from for advice. If this isn’t an option are you able to return the guitar? The last suggestion would be to get the guitar looked at by an experienced luthier or tech. The problem with this last option is there’ll be a cost involved.
Thanks For the Info. I can ship it back, but was really hoping that it would be a quick easy fix. One problem is the top is nice compared to a lot of others I looked at on line as in one side being darker than the other etc. I have to have it set up, so I can ask how much to fix it.

I just wonder if Eastman has this problem with others they build, and I would think it would've/should've been spotted at the end of the line. Thanks again!
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Old 03-18-2020, 06:38 AM
MC5C MC5C is offline
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put a little graphite (from a pencil is fine) in the nut slots, and loosen up the wound strings enough that you can get an inch of slack, rub them through the nut slot a half-dozen times with the graphite. This will burnish the slots, smooth them out, make sure they are not binding. The tuners may have a high ratio, most people think this is an upgrade but it does mean you need to twist the knob more to get an effect. What you don't want is for the pitch to jump suddenly, that means sticking. If the strings are pulling smoothly and come up to pitch evenly but don't hold tune for a half hour or so, then try new strings. Whenever I tune a guitar that has been fairly out of tune, I expect to have to fine-tune a bit for the first few minutes of playing. I expect to have to fine-tune at least every time I pick up the guitar, if it proves to still be in tune that's a bonus. It won't/shouldn't stay in tune overnight, for example, unless the strings are really old. A side benefit of never changing strings, I guess...
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Old 03-18-2020, 01:35 PM
gibpicker gibpicker is offline
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The pitch doesn't jump when turning the knobs, and I'm not hearing a squeak either, but I will try the pencil in the slots anyway. I will change the strings out, but wanted to leave them on for the set up because I would replace them after the set up with GHS thin core lights possibly giving a buzz, and I could adjust the truss rod a tad if necessary. If that makes any sense....

Also, the stock strings were done Taylor style with three wraps, but I might try the over/under method to see if that helps. I don't see why, but just for kicks? One thing I didn't know was that it's normal to have to re tune after over night, so my own words suggest to me that I'm expecting a tad too much. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 03-18-2020, 04:10 PM
Frank Ford Frank Ford is offline
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Don't forget the most important rule:


NEVER try to fine- tune "down" to a note. If you need to lower the pitch, tune well below pitch, then slowly sneak back UP to get it right on. That maneuver allows the geared tuner to lock in position, and compensates for the drag of the string across the nut.

Basic, I know, but you'd be surprised at how many experienced guitarists don't know or obey that rule. . .
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Old 03-19-2020, 11:30 AM
gibpicker gibpicker is offline
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Thanks for tip and link Frank. I do, but will go a lot slower.
Frank
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Old 03-19-2020, 12:03 PM
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Nik outlined most of the important points, especially that tuners generally can't cause tuning instability.


A couple important things:

The most common cause of tuning problems is string installation - slop on the windings.

Also slipping at the bridge pin can cause issues.

And, finally the string disassembling if defective.


To figure out the source of your problem you need to see if its always going flat or always going sharp, or going both ways.
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Old 03-19-2020, 02:08 PM
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It's primarily the 2nd string being sharp, but after 24 hrs. all strings flat. The second string is a bit hard to zero in even though the bridge is compensated. I can get in, but is harder than my other guitars strung by the Taylor method. I should have changed the strings out, but they sounded new/good. Only 3 raps from the factory. Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2020, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibpicker View Post
I've only had it for not even two weeks with hopes of the problem to go away with the org. strings still on, but it's still there. Also, the turners are pretty stiff and it takes a lot of turning to bring the tuning up or down. Any ideas other than changing them out? Thanks.
Not a good look on a new guitar. Perhaps have the place you bought it deal with it?

I assume it was brand new?
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Old 03-21-2020, 01:53 PM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
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Lots of advice scattered among the posts. My take on a short reaction: Put on a new set of strings, installed 'right' (snug at the bridge pins, nut slots inspected, trimmed, lubricated) and proceed. Like a new car that has a soft tire, nothing wrong with the car.

And OP hasn't mentioned how/where the guitar is kept. In the case, out of the sun, always? If the guitar is allowed to cook a while in the sunlight, tuned right away, and left on a stand till evening, it WILL be out of tune, and so will any guitar.

And what's OP's standard of tuning, i.e., does the guitar get tuned every time it's played or once a week whether it needs it or not? That matters.

Guitars need perpetual tuning, and it's not a flaw.
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Old 03-21-2020, 09:03 PM
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Still haven't changed the strings out, but I played tonight (after 24 hrs.) and it was pretty much in tune, so things have settled down a bit. I need to get it set up as it's a lot harder to play than my Gibson dread with 12's thin core and very low action, and the Yamaha FS-800 with thin core 11's. Actually the E1OM is harder to play at this point than the Gibson with mediums (EJ-17) but that will change with a good set up.
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Old 03-22-2020, 02:52 AM
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JayBee1404 JayBee1404 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibpicker View Post
I will change the strings out, but wanted to leave them on for the set up because I would replace them after the set up with GHS thin core lights possibly giving a buzz, and I could adjust the truss rod a tad if necessary. If that makes any sense....
It doesn’t make sense to have a guitar set up with old strings then, after the setup’s done, change to different strings and have to start faffing around with the truss-rod.

Take the new strings along with the guitar to your tech, and have the guitar set up with the new strings on it. Then the job’s done and finished.

The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.
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Old 03-22-2020, 09:40 AM
gibpicker gibpicker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee1404 View Post
It doesn’t make sense to have a guitar set up with old strings then, after the setup’s done, change to different strings and have to start faffing around with the truss-rod.

Take the new strings along with the guitar to your tech, and have the guitar set up with the new strings on it. Then the job’s done and finished.

The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.
My reasoning was the original strings are close to DA EJ-16's which i'm going to be using after the set up, but you're right and I will bring the new set with me.
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Old 03-22-2020, 12:14 PM
MC5C MC5C is offline
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You might be learning how to do setups yourself, SoCal is in lockdown for the virus which means no visits to the local guitar shop, or luthier for the foreseeable future... Probably the nut needs adjusting if you find it hard to play in first position, and the bridge saddle if the action is high, and always adjust relief first, with the truss rod - with your new strings installed! You'll have some time on your hands, probably, good to learn a new skill.
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