#1
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Tools needed for an DIY re-fret? Fretwire size?
My Martin OM is in need of new frets so I'm thinking about using the opportunity to learn this skill. I'm comfortable with finishing work on frets but never have I attempted a full re-fret so I'm excited to give it a go. I only plan on doing this for my own guitar(s) so we're talking about, what, 1-2 times every five years? So, my questions are..
1.) For someone like me what tools am I going to need, at a minimum, to perform a quality re-fret and fingerboard rejuvenation? Which are essential? Which are perhaps unnecessary but recommended? 2.) I'll be using Evo gold fret wire. Any advice as to which wire size would be good to go with? This guitar is used for modern solo fingerstyle stuff... lots of hammer-ons, dynamic technical tricks, etc., played all over the neck. Basically no strumming on this instrument, should that matter. I'm thinking that a bigger/taller wire than the stock Martin size on this guitar would do me right. I like a nice low action. FYI, the guitar has an unbound rosewood fretboard. Thanks! |
#2
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A good set of fret pullers and a soldering iron to heat the frets before pulling are about the only mandatory tools since you already have a grip on leveling and polishing. A cut pair of nippers is nice to trim the frets back after you hammer them in. and of course some type of hammer, I like one with a plastic head.
For standard EVO replacement wire I usually use the FW74 from LMI. |
#3
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My advice would be to do a refret on a beater first rather then start on your OM.
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#4
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Pulling the frets cleanly is usually the most difficult. Interesting, Brian prefers a plastic hammer, but I myself prefer a small metal-headed tack hammer. Each to his own; neither is wrong, both are good. End nippers are essential, and you'll either have to buy a previously modified version or grind the face of it flat so that the bladed edge of the nippers can lie flush with the fingerboard. I have never heated frets before removal, and have never had undue issues. You should know that chip-out is common, especially with ebony fingerboards. Next worse for chip-out is rosewood. Maple usually pulls out without any chip-out. So, be ready to CA the chips back into place and giving the fingerboard a light sanding to re-level the edges of the fret-slots before installing the new frets.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#5
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Thanks for the replies. I don't really have a beater guitar to try this on. Guess I can maybe find something dirt cheap at the local flea market or something. I'll look around. I do have a cheap uke that might serve well for a trial run.
I'm confident that I have the skills to do this properly but, that said, I don't want to run into a pitfall resulting in extensive repair that's beyond my ability to remedy. I don't care much about aesthetics in this case, just playability and sound quality. Two questions... Do those little metal fret guards that stew-mac sells help to reduce chip-out? Just curious. Also, should I expect the need to raise/shim the nut due to taller frets? I assume yes. Bone shim to way to go? What about the "bone dust + CA glue then re-file the nut slots solution" that I've heard about? I made the nut myself so I'm comfortable with setting the proper slot depth. Thanks again. Last edited by Scallywag; 07-15-2014 at 03:01 PM. |
#6
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In my opinion, they are a poor alternative to using a tool that is shaped the right way for the job. Quote:
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#7
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#8
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I have shimmed many a nut with wood veneer, staining it to match the neck. As long as the shim is shallower than the slot that the nut rests in, it works just fine.
If it is a vintage guitar with the original bone or ivory nut, I like to fill the slots and recut them. But rather than using bone dust, I cut slivers of ivory or bone and glue them in place with CA. It is easier and works better if you deepen and square the bottom of the slot before gluing in the slivers. The best way I have found to reduce chipping of the slots is to heat the fret with a soldering iron. Rather than rocking the fret pulling pliers, it is always better to squeeze them to lift the fret, working from one end of the fret to the other. |
#9
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And, yes, it is expected in our shop that we will do a majority of refretting on ebony fingerboards without needing to repair a single chip caused by fret removal. Occasionally, we may pull a small chip, and if we do, we take that as a sign that the fret was not hot enough. Heat the next one hotter, and there's no repeat of the problem |
#10
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Back to the original question - refretting. As with most repair work it's not about the tools.
Fretting is certainly one of those tasks that appears much easier done than said. While it's not uncommon for a beginner to get a decent fret job the first time, it's more predictable that there will be little troubles along the way for the first few dozen refret jobs. Sometimes the cumulative effect of those little troubles can be really difficult to overcome. That warning aside, please do take a look at my FRETS.COM articles on refretting, where you'll see pretty much the entire kit of tools I use. As with painting a room, surface preparation is the key to a good job. With the fingerboard surface properly leveled and ready, I think it's important to the point of necessity to get the frets seated well enough that only the lightest possible touch with a leveling block on the tops will true them up such that no re-crowning is needed. GUITAR REFRETTING SOME SOLUTIONS TO REFRET PROBLEMS Just like playing guitar - it's not the instrument, it's the practice time. . . |
#11
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I used to say that it took me about 100 fret jobs before I really had a handle on it.
Lots of good advice here. |
#12
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Cheers!
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#13
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Thanks again to everyone on this thread for your counsel. Yet again this forum proves to be an invaluable resource to so many people, certainly including the eager DIYers like myself. It's you professionals who are willing to share your wisdom that make this place what it is. I really appreciate that.
I'll let you all know how it goes! |
#14
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learning curve
No one's mentioned paying a luthier to walk the OP through his first refret, as a tutorial. All the good intentions we have answering questions won't equal the benefits of being taught a process by someone skilled at it.
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#15
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One of the tools I use that really makes a difference is a good fret end file. I have the one from stewmac, but it's a little too flimsy for my technique. This is my favorite one: http://store.fretguru.com/shop/ultimate-fret-end-file/
Good technique to get all the ends uniform is important for a neat job.
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Bryan |