#16
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Is this your African Blackwood? or your Cocobolo? on that recording. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Choosing the brand/luthier is usually the foremost decision - and then you decide on the woods. The reason is due to most folks noticing more difference between Martin and Taylor than they do between different guitars from the same builder. As has been mentioned, certain builders tend to build very harmonically complex guitars. It's been a while since I played a Goodall but their instruments tend to have a lot of tonal complexity. Lowden is another one that I've found tends to have a complex voice.
In terms of woods, Rosewoods will give you more tonal complexity than Mahogany or Maple. And Redwood/Cedar will give you more tonal complexity than Spruce. My build style is to create guitars with a rich timbre while also having excellent balance and articulation. Most of my customers tend to go with Spruce/Rosewood but one of my personal favorite wood combinations are those that involve Redwood (more specifically, I use Sinker Redwood). The Redwood softens and mellows the overall sound - Spruce, in comparison, sounds a bit more strident. Redwood also gives the sound a great deal of depth and complexity. All that to say is that if you are looking for a build with a lot of depth and complexity, you should consider Spruce/Rosewood or if you want an even richer sound, go with something like Redwood or Cedar. I've built quite a few Redwood/Walnut guitars over the years and it makes for a great sounding guitar - it's really beautiful too. Here's a guitar I recently finished in this wood combination Last edited by Simon Fay; 08-15-2018 at 08:35 PM. |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks
Quote:
Gorgeous guitar above Simon! I love that sinker redwood and walnut combo.
__________________
John Tucson, AZ 2020 Kraut 00, Swiss/Brazilian, build 2018 Eady EG Pro Electric, Redwood/Mahogany 2013 Baranik Meridian, Blue Spruce/Cocobolo, build 2008 Baranik CX, Blue Spruce/African Blackwood 2008 Breedlove A20 Masterclass 12-string, Adi/IRW 2003 Thames classical, Euro/Brazilian Fodera Standard 4 Fretless bass, figured walnut |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
----------------------------------------- Recorded in 2002 on a Ryan Mission: http://www.novickmusic.com/lifeinthehighlands.mp3 |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Muse-ic and I discussed already, but for the crowd, my personal take on most overtones (sometimes to a ridiculous level) are Ryan and Goodall, but they are slightly different overtone structures. I've only played one Wingert and that had quite a bit too--just not as much as R and G. For the record, I've also found more of the recent Goodalls to have less overtone content than the older ones I've played--not sure why.
Because I favor highs, I tend to like the overtones on spruce that are richer than cedar, with European and Engelmann tops doing well for me in that front rather than Sitka. (I've only had some Adirondack float my boat, but that's more the exception than the rule) All generalizations of course.
__________________
1998 Langejans BRGC Engelmann Spruce / Brazilian RW 2017 Heinonen "Olson" SJ Western Red Cedar / Honduran RW - Build |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Another one that hasn't been mentioned is Breedlove. Small shop rather than hand built by one person.
Years ago I played a jumbo with ebony back and sides. I'm pretty sure it was made with the JLD bridge doctor as part of the design. The sustain and overtones were like that of a piano. For melodic fingerstyle (think Ed Gerhard) it was awesome. But playing any other style would have been near impossible. If you were to strum or play thumb based thumping you'd spend most of your energy trying to shut the thing up. It is possible to have too much of a good thing. Still, for the one thing that guitar was built for, it was incredible! |