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Little Help with a set up?
Hi AGFsters.
I Just bought my first real classical guitar ever. I have been studying for about 5 years so I am medium-skill-used to the moves and the forms, But since i have been playing it all on OM and 000 STEEL strings I will have some adjustment time getting used to the feel. Guitar sounds AWESOME and is in really good shape.(it's a 20 year old Esteve that has sat in it's case since 2000) I did notice when I sat with it for an hour or so last night that the action is a little high, for my taste, from about the 6th and 7th fret on up... not criminally high, BUT if it were a steel string I would file a 16th to a 32nd off of the saddle. The relief on the neck is perfect (by the standards I have learned setting up steels) This is one of those 'authentic' no truss rod guitars. So is filing the saddle down a snudge OK, or do I have to 'slot' adjust each individual string??? Thanks for any pointers you might have!!
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#2
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Don't "'slot' adjust each individual string." It's going to be a mess.
Is the current saddle has sufficient height to take off 1/16th (about 1.5mm I guess)? Taking off 1/16th at the saddle will drop the strings about 1/32th (not exact, because it depends on the height of the strings at the nut) at the 12th fret. I would buy an "empty" saddle (e.g https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1) for the experiment, leaving the current saddle alone just in case you need to come back to it. Using the current saddle as a template, with sandpaper on a flat surface, take off material from the bottom of the new saddle until you feel comfortable. |
#3
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#4
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I did that once to lower the action on my classical and it works well. I glued a piece of fairly coarse sandpaper to a flat piece of wood (like 1 x 6). Make sure it's level, and sand away. It goes by fast though, so don't forget to check the saddle height often as you sand. As you said, it's a 2:1 ratio.
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Best regards, Andre Golf is pretty simple. It's just not that easy. - Paul Azinger "It ain’t what you don’t know that gets you into trouble. It’s what you know for sure that just ain’t so." – Mark Twain http://www.youtube.com/user/Gitfiddlemann |
#5
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These instruments are very different from steel strung ones. Classical guitar strings have typically less tension than steel strings so tend to vibrate a greater distance. So setups tend to be higher.
I would be inclined to leave it alone for a year or so and then maybe take it to a classical guitar specialist luthier and let him see you play. You may need no adjustment at all. Only time will tell. By then there will be other matters for him to consider as well. - Stevo |
#6
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You can sure adjust it, and since the saddle is separate it's completely reversible with a new saddle or shims. I also kind of dabble with classical guitar, and I set mine up with pretty low action. I also have terrible technique and can't develop any kind of classical guitar power with my right hand. Actual competent classical guitarists often like what I think of as impossibly high string action, and they can play with so much speed and power it's mind boggling to me.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia. |
#7
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Typical classical action…
At the 12th fret, action should be about 4 mm on the 6th string, 3 mm on the 1st string.
So the first thing to do is to measure the action. This is a lot higher than typical steel-string action because of the lower string tensions involved and the larger amplitude when plucked. If you play with a light touch you can probably come down as low as 3.5 mm and 2.5 mm, 6th and 1st strings respectively. Adjusting saddle precisely requires a little skill, a flat surface and something to help hold the saddle square. Good saddle contact in the bridge slot is important to achieve a good sound so keeping the saddle bottom flat and square is essential. A Vernier calliper is also useful for precise measurements. A good luthier or tech should understand the differences between steel string and nylon instruments and adjust the setup accordingly. |
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Yamaha Pacifica 512, Yamaha APX6, Alhambra 7c, Taylor 110 (w/upgraded Taylor gold tuners!), Alhambra 7p, Yamaha CS-40, Samick Corsair Pawn-Shop Special Bass |
#9
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Curious
Hey Baseball...?
Have you done a lot of adjustments on guitars? If the answer is no... I would suggest you find a reputable Luthier in your area.... one who has done lots of work on both steel and nylon string guitars and let them make the adjustment for you. Preferably a small luthier shop and not a Big-Box retailer. Just a suggestion. |
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#11
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Classical set ups are about 4mm for the 6th string at the 12th fret and 3mm for the 1st string. When you watch a classical guitarist up close you will see how high the action is. The strings have very little tension compared to a steel string so they need room to vibrate. When I started with classical playing I soon realized that it is a whole different world. Love it and am always amazed at those who perform on classical guitar. If you get a chance watch Anna Vidovic perform on youtube. You will be able to see her string height as she plays.
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1980 Ovation Legend Larrivee L09 Yamaha CG142S Classical Fender 1996 American Standard Strat Epiphone Elitist Casino Kanai Lal Sitar |
#12
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I wouldnt do anything to it until you play the thing for at least 4-6 months.
the action should be higher to allow the strings to vibrate more. as not sure what strings you are using, but try a lower tension string and it may have a very minimal impact on the action, same as trying different string brands overall: be it D'Addario proartes EJ43s (lower tension than their ej45s), savarez cor or ernie ball earthwoods, play around with strings before you sand the saddle however if you do decide to shave/sand the saddle, a good trick to ensure you remove the same amount from it is to use a marker and run it along the bottom side of saddle that you are going to sand. this allows you to visually see what is being removed instead of guessing that you are sanding it evenly. (keep repeating this marking/sanding until to reach the desired saddle height, and i would use 320 sandpaper..nothing coarser than that as it will take off too much at once.
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