#1
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Right hand technique question
When playing a free stroke do you sort of push through the string and then "pluck/pick" with the nail or just "pluck/pick" with no push?
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#2
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I'm not clear on the distinction you are making.
Usually, the nail and flesh of the finger contact the string simultaneously. That is, the string is "contained" in the space between the nail and the tip of the finger prior to plucking, rather than "swatting" the string with one's finger as the finger passes by the string. The string is in contact with the nail and flesh prior to plucking. This creates an instant of damping the string prior to plucking, giving a "clean" attack. It produces a different sound than "swatting the string" from a plucking action that begins prior to contact with the string. It is a less percussive sound, one in which one doesn't hear a clicking/clacking of the nail striking the string, since the stroke begins with the nail/flesh already in contact with the static string. One of the reasons to practice scales is to develop this method of "attack". Last edited by charles Tauber; 07-19-2021 at 07:59 AM. |
#3
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Charles has summarized the technique well. It's what I learned from classical lessons anyway. The flesh tip of the finger right below the nail hits first, setting the string up for a smooth slide up the nail. It's a downward motion of the string that you want to achieve as opposed to a side swipe or plucking up, both of which would result in a thinner tone. I just did a small demo of an intro to a piece I'm working on. Maybe it will be helpful to you. Admittedly, it's hard to tell how the string is being plucked here, but my goal was/is always to do it as described above. (Not always successful. )
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#4
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Good comments above. I can't view Andre's video right now (ISP), but I think
"pushing" on the string is a useful way of thinking, for getting a full-sounding free stroke. A little alternation with rest stroke can help that along, I think. Practicing on the open high e string is a good test- if you can make *that* sound good, you're in the money. Adding: an exercise I've found useful for getting a good sound on the top string (and knowing where the thing is!) is, free stroke: c (pinky) - i - a - i - m - i.. Helps for the sense of touch (an issue for me), precision, and overall RH placement, even if you don't use the pinky in normal playing. Last edited by Carey; 07-19-2021 at 12:27 PM. |
#5
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I always push the string parallel to the guitar top as much a practical (modified rest strokes).
Full rest strokes on some notes (usually some melody note). Usually nails extend one to two millimeters beyond the tips of the fingers
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Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#6
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Right hand technique question
Last edited by Tom_B; 07-19-2021 at 09:26 PM. |
#7
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I suggest you listen not so much to us but to your fingers; the tone they produce. In my case the finger tips vary is shape, so I have to file to a different length and angle for each. I adjust every day or two with one of the glass files.
Then there is the thumb: it tends to produce louder notes, but on the bass strings, less bright ones, less prominent. Many guitarists in pop, folk, jazz, steel string, use thumb picks to bring the bass strings into prominence balance with the trebles. This is less a problem with the naturally fine bass tones of the classical/Spanish/Flamenco guitar, but I use a longer nail on the thumb than the fingers. - Stevo |
#8
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#9
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Barry, have a look at some of Tatiana Ryzkhova’s videos on “planting” where she discusses what you are asking about here.
here’s one; https://youtu.be/h9C50cs1pA8
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#10
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__________________
Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#11
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I have to second this -having been working through the Segovia scales on Charles’ recommendation (30 mins/day on all patterns - I’m 13 in of the 27) it’s been a massive help in developing my right hand tone and economy.
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Burguet AC-007 (2003 - Cedar/Rosewood) Webber OM (2009 - Sitka/Sapele) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8A...2TVEhWes2Djrig |
#12
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFHMwNuvUmM I'm wondering if I can use this technique with my steel strings also. I downloaded Segovia's scales from classclef for Guitar Pro and I'll give them a try after I learn more about planting. Thanks!
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#13
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The Segovia scales are very simple but the various fingerings challenged me at the outset, particularly the IMAMI variation, but it really improves if you dedicate some time to it every day and work through all 7 for each scale (at least before that becomes too much, then you vary it) Theres a thread Charles started about this on the classical forum which is worth a look.
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Burguet AC-007 (2003 - Cedar/Rosewood) Webber OM (2009 - Sitka/Sapele) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8A...2TVEhWes2Djrig |
#14
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Finger to string assignment seems to vary from tune to tune, but I suppose the arranger assigned the right hand fingerings for the flow at performance speed. With something slow, does it really matter? I'm sure with Segovia's scales there's a method going on, I haven't even looked at it yet though. When can you break from the written assignment to what is comfortable for the individual player or is there no such deviation in reality? I've also noticed in arrangements that you'll get right hand finger assignments for the first couple of measures and then you're on your own for the rest of the tune Just some ramblings, but its a bit confusing at times.
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#15
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Generally speaking there is no such finger assignment in classical in terms of a string to finger arrangement. It is strictly alternating fingers with no repeats. Often I/M and sometimes I/M/A but always alternating. It does lead to greater efficiency once you adjust to it.
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Burguet AC-007 (2003 - Cedar/Rosewood) Webber OM (2009 - Sitka/Sapele) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8A...2TVEhWes2Djrig |