#16
|
|||
|
|||
The most important thing is just to keep your tip shiny: wipe on a damp sponge and tin regularly. At high temperatures a layer of oxidation quickly builds up on the tip and this stops it transferring heat properly.
A temperature-controlled soldering station is better though and it really comes into its own if you're trying to solder to a big lump of metal which sucks all the heat away as fast as you can deliver it. - as the tip temperature starts to fall, the station will automatically pump out more heat maintaining a more even temperature than an ordinary iron - changeable tips so you can fit something big with more thermal inertia. - you can set the temperature very high to zap the parts with a big blast of heat (careful you don't melt the insulation off the wire though...) It's also better for preserving tips. When you have to pause for a few minutes, you can wipe, tin, and turn the temperature right down. Because a soldering station heats up quickly there's no real pause when you need it again. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Glad you got it!
And don't bee too hard on your soldering iron! I've found lead-free solder a right pain. Rock on! |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
I keep a high watt iron just for the pot grounds. Cheap enough. And long ago I wired all my strats master volume, master tone.
__________________
2007 Martin D 35 Custom 1970 Guild D 35 1965 Epiphone Texan 2011 Santa Cruz D P/W Pono OP 30 D parlor Pono OP12-30 Pono MT uke Goldtone Paul Beard squareneck resophonic Fluke tenor ukulele Boatload of home rolled telecasters "Shut up and play ur guitar" Frank Zappa |