Bridge repair on an old Conqueror

[banjowells]

My husband found an old Conqueror small bodied classical guitar at a thrift store for $4.98, less the old fart discount of 30% - so under $4. Of course, it has issues, mainly with the bridge and a slight bulge. It was nylon strung, and surprisingly in tune and has a really sweet tone, in spite of almost brittle strings. There are no major cracks, the neck is straight, frets in good shape, struts appear to be solid, tuners a bit sticky, and in general the guitar is dirty.
I make and repair banjos, so have tools available to make the repairs and there is a wealth of information available on the internet to guide me.
I have removed the bridge and corrected the warp in it using heat and moisture. I have yet to remove the saddle which kind of melted...OOPS! I may have to reheat it to soften the glue,
The bridge was bolted to the top in the top center with a single bolt. I plan to reattach it using two bolts on either end, although I realize this is not the way the bridge is usually attached. two bolts will be attached along side the struts and I intend to glue a thin piece of wood between the struts so the bolts don't pull through the top.
My question is, is this doable, and would it significantly affect the sound?
I intend to keep this guitar for myself, so I'm not concerned about restoring it to it's original condition.

[Ned Milburn]

If it is nylon string it shouldn't need bolts. In fact, many nylon strings either do not have bridge plates or have softwood bridgeplates which don't provide a good backing for bolts or nuts.

Did you use a heat gun for removal before removing the saddle...??

[redir]

I agree with Ned. No need for bolts. In fact there are good arguments out there that suggest bolts are worse. Titebond is strong enough to hold a pinless bridge on a steel string using medium gauge strings 13's.