A good crowning file for a novice?

[Purfle Haze]

I am going to try my first fret level and dressing. I won't be doing this often, so I don't wish to invest in the most expensive file. However, I don't want to cheap out on a file that won't help me succeed. I'd like to find the file that works well by design, giving me the best advantage as a novice.

I see two files at StewMac that grab my attention. The first is this one, a dual-grit reversible diamond file. It's $66.



The other file is the quarter-round, which files one side of the fret at a time. It's $50.



I am open to other suggestions. I see less costly Hosco files available, but I have read that some users were disappointed by them. Many of you professionals use a triangle file, but that seems like it requires more skill and experience than a concave-style file.

Thanks!

[Ned Milburn]

This for a novice:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...Fret_File.html

For several reasons.

That said, I have been using a triangle file now since circa 1997 since it offers the artisan the most personal control.

[Purfle Haze]

Originally Posted by Ned Milburn

This for a novice:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...Fret_File.html

For several reasons.

Could you mention a couple? I see from the web site that it cuts in two directions, and has rave reviews. Would you recommend 150 or 300 grit?

That said, I have been using a triangle file now since circa 1997 since it offers the artisan the most personal control.

I am not the most dexterous person I know, so I'm looking for a tool with skills to make up for my lack of same.

Thanks.

[bnjp]

I started with those diamond screwdriver handled ones you posted. They worked fine. I used the Medium until the diamond coating came off, then stewmac replaced it. I bought the expensive offset one thinking it would be an upgrade, but it really wasn't any better. I now use a triangle file and love it, but the ones with the screwdriver handle are much easier to use over the body because of the offset

[Sperry]

A guy on eBay sells a Hosco metal concave file for about $36 delivered. You can try that, and also hold a piece of 220/320 grit paper on the file as well, to shape the fret.

Getting a medium three-sided fret file is also a good idea. You can practice up above the 17th fret, where no fingers go.

Also, you can take any fine 6"-8" file and sand/file one edge smooth, and try that as a fret file.

Getting blue tape in different widths is a plus for taping the fingerboard.

There is a guy selling English-made triangular "fret" files on eBay for $17 delivered. The guy surfaces three edges flat. But the adjacent edges to the flat surface will dig into the fingerboard, and the file arrives still needing dressing. I guess that's the difference between $17 and Stew-Mac's $25.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by Sperry

A guy on eBay sells a Hosco metal concave file for about $36 delivered. You can try that, and also hold a piece of 220/320 grit paper on the file as well, to shape the fret.

Getting a medium three-sided fret file is also a good idea. You can practice up above the 17th fret, where no fingers go.

Also, you can take any fine 6"-8" file and sand/file one edge smooth, and try that as a fret file.

Getting blue tape in different widths is a plus for taping the fingerboard.

There is a guy selling English-made triangular "fret" files on eBay for $17 delivered. The guy surfaces three edges flat. But the adjacent edges to the flat surface will dig into the fingerboard, and the file arrives still needing dressing. I guess that's the difference between $17 and Stew-Mac's $25.

I have 2 triangle files from stew mac. One older one (circa 2002) and a newer one (bought last year). The newer one doesn't really cut at all. The older one still works. I had to dress them both slightly, but they will mark if tape isn't used on the F.board.

[Purfle Haze]

Originally Posted by Sperry

A guy on eBay sells a Hosco metal concave file for about $36 delivered. You can try that, and also hold a piece of 220/320 grit paper on the file as well, to shape the fret.

I followed your September thread on fret dressing. Didn't you have a bad experience with a fret file? Which was it? What did you use in the end?

[bnjp]

Originally Posted by Ned Milburn

I have 2 triangle files from stew mac. One older one (circa 2002) and a newer one (bought last year). The newer one doesn't really cut at all. The older one still works. I had to dress them both slightly, but they will mark if tape isn't used on the F.board.

Yes. the risk of scratching your fretboard (even through the tape) or messing up your crown when the file slips and slides over the top of the freshly level fret, is greater with the 3 corner file even when they are ground "safe." BUT with practice you'll get a better crown than with the crowning file.

If I were beginning, I would get a the offset diamond file from Stewmac in 300 grit and call it a day. Or if you're just doing a couple of jobs, then the dual grit one (screwdriver handle) is fine, but you really don't need the 150 grit side.

[Sperry]

It was a diamond file direct from a Japanese company. They had just started selling them. Two sided concave, coarse/fine, in medium I ordered. It was bad on the fine side, and the replacement was also faulty.

I overcame the issues by rounding one edge on a fine three-sided jewelers file. I also used the faulty concave file wrapped with 220.

In the end, the three-sided was easiest.

Recently I did a guitar with stainless frets. The jewelers file didn't cut it, and I ended up using a metal concave Hosco, and removed file marks with the paper-on-the-file trick. I bet the diamond file would have been a good idea on that job.

If I was only going to do more work, I'd probably get the medium 300 grit diamond.

My thinking is that you should know several ways to do the job.

[Sperry]

Originally Posted by Ned Milburn

I had to dress them both slightly, but they will mark if tape isn't used on the F.board.

The one I got off eBay is completely unusable until it is fully dressed. I started getting one edge done but it is slow going with my Cratex wheel. I may try something else.

As it comes, it would cut a clean groove in a fingerboard.

For what Stew-Mac charges, I'd be inclined to comment to CSR, get a return ticket and replacement.

[bnjp]

Originally Posted by Sperry

Recently I did a guitar with stainless frets. The jewelers file didn't cut it, and I ended up using a metal concave Hosco, and removed file marks with the paper-on-the-file trick. I bet the diamond file would have been a good idea on that job.

You definitely need a courser file for Stainless. I use my medium stewmac 3 corner for regular frets, but the large one for stainless. it works great for stainless, but cuts too fast for me on nickel/silver frets.

[GolfSteve]

I've only used a shaped sanding block. Easy peasy. Make it yourself or buy one from Bogdanovich - watch the video to see the shaped sanding block:

http://www.jsbguitars.com/buzz-off-f...-5e9731a9-a6a4

[bnjp]

Originally Posted by GolfSteve

I've only used a shaped sanding block. Easy peasy. Make it yourself or buy one from Bogdanovich - watch the video to see the shaped sanding block:

http://www.jsbguitars.com/buzz-off-f...-5e9731a9-a6a4

I have a customer the "levels" his frets with a kit like that. He's grinding on his frets every time he changes strings. He doesn't know if the rocking he gets form the straight edges means a high fret, or a low fret...so he grinds all the "high" ones down until his rocker doesn't rock. His guitar is two years old and he's needing a refret.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by Sperry

The one I got off eBay is completely unusable until it is fully dressed. I started getting one edge done but it is slow going with my Cratex wheel. I may try something else.

As it comes, it would cut a clean groove in a fingerboard.

For what Stew-Mac charges, I'd be inclined to comment to CSR, get a return ticket and replacement.

Sometimes it is not worth the lost time and return shipping cost in contacting and returning a small item. Stew-Mac is great with their customer service, this is true.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by bnjp

Yes. the risk of scratching your fretboard (even through the tape) or messing up your crown when the file slips and slides over the top of the freshly level fret, is greater with the 3 corner file even when they are ground "safe." BUT with practice you'll get a better crown than with the crowning file.

Very true. I have yet to find a masking tape that resist the abrasion of a three-square file, even with the corners ground smooth.

Personally, I cut strips out of aluminum drink cans and tape these up against the fret. They are only .004" thick, but they ensure that the fretboard stays unmarked.