Mohawk lacquer, buffed out finish

[Chevchenko]

I plan on using Mohawk piano or instrument lacquer. I will follow their protocol: Their vinyl white sealer, tint their mohawk lacquer the off-white color, then topcoats of their clear. Heck, I will even use their reducer (lacquer thinner) and retarder.

What I am most concerned about is NOT getting any cracking or checking, and not too much yellowing.

Has anyone used these products and buffed them out well.

Any advice is welcomed!

[charles Tauber]

A quick search of the internet shows many opinions and lots of experience with these two products.

If you are concerned about checking and yellowing, I'd consider using a non-nitrocellulose-based finish. There are many from which to chose.

[Chevchenko]

Yeah I have looked at the internet and most responses to this lacquer is very good. Few, its seems, have gotten checking and it is a water-white lacquer so from what I have been told it does not yellow much.

Having said that, the more personal experience I can get from those who have used it the better.

The other product I am considering is a catalyzed poly from Ilva. I guess I should run a thread on that too.

Thanks!

What other products are you referring to?

[John Arnold]

I use their Piano lacquer, and judging from other's experience, I have been lucky with the lack of cold checking. I believe the main reason is that I do a very thin finish, which after buffing is around 2 mils on the top and 3 on the back, sides, and neck. It hardens up quicker than any nitro I have used, and has pretty high solids. I would not call it water white, because it does have a slight amber tint in the can. Like most nitro, it will yellow some over time.
I do believe it is the closest I have seen to the lacquer used back in the 1930's.

The only sealer I use is dewaxed clear shellac. I have never liked any vinyl sealer I have tried.

[Chevchenko]

Thank you!

The guy at Mohawk called it a water-white, but he did say it would yellow a little over time.

[Chevchenko]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I use their Piano lacquer, and judging from other's experience, I have been lucky with the lack of cold checking. I believe the main reason is that I do a very thin finish, which after buffing is around 2 mils on the top and 3 on the back, sides, and neck. It hardens up quicker than any nitro I have used, and has pretty high solids. I would not call it water white, because it does have a slight amber tint in the can. Like most nitro, it will yellow some over time.
I do believe it is the closest I have seen to the lacquer used back in the 1930's.

The only sealer I use is dewaxed clear shellac. I have never liked any vinyl sealer I have tried.

Would you use it if you were doing something with color, like a cream off-white? or would you not use it because of the yellowing?

[John Arnold]

I would use a different finish. Mohawk has some finishes (including lacquers) that are non- yellowing.