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#1
04-24-2013, 10:08 AM
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Worn bridge plate and ball ends.
I'm thinking that instead of a patched plate, slipping on a larger ball end, then feeding the string up from underneath the bridge.
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#2
04-24-2013, 10:29 AM
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Glue
Maple dust masking tape Tape the bridge plate on the underside Mix glue and wood dust Place mixture into holes -- hold the tape and force it in there. Remove the tape Redrill holes after glue dries Presto, bridgeplate repaired. A good repair person can handle the procedure in minutes. A variation for very worn holes is to combine this method with maple plugs. Sanded, it makes for essentially a brand new plate.  *** Picture: gtrdoc's from Oregon and appears on the UMGF Seems like an easier fix, to me. max
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#3
04-24-2013, 10:52 AM
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I'll end up doing that, it's in my level of comfort. And in the meantime I intend to search out larger beads. I bet a hobby shop...
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#4
04-24-2013, 01:06 PM
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You can use a larger ball, but the best temporary fix I have found are aluminum washers that are sold to be used with 1/8" pop rivets. They are flat, and will not damage the bridgeplate further. The bonus is that you don't have to use bridge pins.
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#5
04-24-2013, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
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#6
04-24-2013, 06:18 PM
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Nope. It is a small flat washer with a 1/8" hole in it. The important factors are the 1/8" hole, and the fact that it is aluminum, which is low in weight. They are available most anywhere pop rivets are sold.
http://www.amazon.com/Rivet-Washer-A...6849040&sr=1-2
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#8
04-24-2013, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Bryan 
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#9
04-25-2013, 12:22 AM
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I picked up some wooden beads (7/32 in - 5.56 mm) at an Arts & Crafts and the guitar, a 60's Yamaha laminate, sounds as dandy as ever - 12th fret on the 6th string is still clear - now that's a guitar.
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#10
04-27-2013, 01:41 AM
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just my 2 cents
Im not a plate mate fan....they are merely a band aid. The maple dust is a tried and true method. Personally, I use poplar dowels, glue them into the existing holes, sand them flush once the glue dries (i use titebond), then re-drill and re-ream the holes at a 5 degree taper. I have found that poplar works very well for this fix. You would also want to consider looking at your bridge. Are the pin holes slotted or unslotted? Ramped ot not ramped? Slotted and ramped? Ramped but not slotted? This will dictate what kind of pins you should use. For example....a slotted pin hole should have an un-slotted pin in it and vice versa. You also want to consider your break angle off of the back of the saddle. If it is too steep (more than 45 degrees) that will put more pressure on the bridge plate causing premature wear of the holes. Less than 35 degrees means the strings are pulling in a more linear direction causing the string itself to dig into the pinholes and eventually the bridge face itself. Hope this helped.
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#11
04-27-2013, 01:53 AM
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more 2 cents
On a side note....a friend of mine got conned into one of those "E Z play" modified guitars from ebay. Not mentioning any names but UGH!!! The thing has ZERO volume or projection and here is why. The touted "lower string pressure" comes from reducing the break angle to less than 35 degrees. NO BUENO!!! True...it is easier on the fingers, but having linear pressure on the bridge doesnt allow the string to engage the top of the instrument, and thusly reduces the volume of the instrument horribly. This is where the "special bracing" comes in....his are scallopped down to a fair thee well to try to compensate for the lack of top engagement. If the instrument were to be set-up with the correct break angle, the weakened top braces would be stressed to the point of giving way eventually. Luckily for him he plays through an amplifier most of the time so there's no need to re-modify this instrument, but an un-plugged player is going to have issues with lack of volume, projection, and tone.
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#12
04-27-2013, 01:59 AM
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just my 2 cents
Im not a plate mate fan....they are merely a band aid. The maple dust is a tried and true method. Personally, I use poplar dowels, glue them into the existing holes, sand them flush once the glue dries (i use titebond), then re-drill and re-ream the holes at a 5 degree taper. I have found that poplar works very well for this fix. You would also want to consider looking at your bridge. Are the pin holes slotted or unslotted? Ramped ot not ramped? Slotted and ramped? Ramped but not slotted? This will dictate what kind of pins you should use. For example....a slotted pin hole should have an un-slotted pin in it and vice versa. You also want to consider your break angle off of the back of the saddle. If it is too steep (more than 45 degrees) that will put more pressure on the bridge plate causing premature wear of the holes. Less than 35 degrees means the strings are pulling in a more linear direction causing the string itself to dig into the pinholes and eventually the bridge face itself. Hope this helped.
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#14
04-27-2013, 07:42 AM
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Here is the issue I am trying to solve. The top photo shows my bridge pate with the mis-aligned centering hole being too close to the string holes, rather than the bottom photo which shows better alignment. Maybe use the plate mate cut to just the length needed to fit the G and D string holes?
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#15
04-27-2013, 10:03 PM
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worn gibson plate
Dluth....my humble opinion only....If I were working on your instrument I would remove the bridge, plug the existing pin holes, sand them flush, re-glue the bridge, and re-drill and ream the holes. I have installed platemates in the past and have had issues with the adhesive not sticking, and some really annoying buzzing if the strings are not installed perfectly. Your plate is not so far gone that it cannot be saved, but in my opinion your beyond a platemate's capabilities.
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