Have any tips on stringing slotted headstocks?

[donlyn]

Have any tips on stringing slotted headstocks?

Yes.

Don't buy a guitar with one.

There are a lot of guitar-fish in the sea, and you don't need the 'haddock' you can incur while 'floundering' around with the wrong net.

I have followed my own advice on this.

And for the record, I prefer instruments without installed pick-ups if I can.
I like the sound of a cleanly fingerpicked un-amplified guitar.
I use my nails as picks.

Be well and play well,

Don
.

[Mandobart]

I've got 3 slot head guitars - one of them is a 12 string. I use round core strings, so no pre-cutting (which I've never done on any instrument and had never even heard of before joining the AGF). I've been playing and changing strings for over 50 years.

There's plenty of AGF members on record stating how much they hate changing strings regardless of the headstock style, and a few who just won't do slotheads, certain nut widths, string spacing, body types/sizes, etc. It's like Steve Forbert sings: "they say it takes all kinds to make this world - it don't but they're all here." None of us will change another's mind on things like that.

BUT since the question was asked, and tips/advice requested, here's mine.

I pretty much follow this same routine on all my guitars and mandolin family instruments. I'm mostly left-handed but play my instruments right handed. I usually have the instrument on my couch to my right with the neck and headstock in my lap.

1. Loosen all the strings a full step down. When you reduce tension on a single string, the neck bend/relief also reduces, which actually raises the tension on the remaining strings. Reduce tension on all 6, 8, 10 or 12 up front.

2. Fully slack the lowest (pitch not position) string/string pair. I use a manual crank for this. Cut the string between the nut and post with a pair of diagonal cutters (dikes). Remove the string from the bridge/tailpiece and tuning machine post. I find it helpful to grab the spring "coil" at the post with needle nose pliers and gently pull while unwinding with the hand crank.

3. Clean the fretboard, nut, saddle, headstock and body as needed. Lube saddle and nut slots with graphite.

4. Attach new string to bridge (or tailpiece). Run string up to the nut, seat it in the slot, hold in position with my right thumb between the nut and first fret.

5. On a slotted headstock, thread the wild end of the string through the hole on the tuning machine post, leaving enough slack for 2 to 3 wraps around the post (for a 1/4" diameter post that's 1-1/2" to about 2-3/16") for a wound string. For a plain steel string I like 5 wraps (~4"). Hold this with my right index finger.

6. Wind the string (using my left hand and manual crank) so the windings lie on the outside of the post hole - between the hole and the tuning machine gears, NOT on the inside where they're more likely to ride/rub on the inner edge of the slot cutout. I've never used any knots, locks etc. that only make future removal harder. I've never hand a string unwind or slip once tuned up to pitch.

7. Tune the string up to a full step flat again.

8. Trim off the wild end of the string.

Repeat for the remaining strings. Gradually and equally bring them all up to pitch.

The whole thing takes about 20 minutes for my 12 string, less for the six strings, even less for the solid headstocks where I manually do the 2 to 5 windings around the post with my left hand and don't need the hand crank to wind them.

I've never felt the need for string stretching gymnastics others advocate. I just play and adjust tuning for the first hour or so.

[Steve DeRosa]

You need one of these:



One of these:



One of these:



One of these:



- and one of these:



Good luck...

[donlyn]

Originally Posted by Steve DeRosa

You need one of these:



* *

- and one of these:



Good luck...

Steve,

I gots to know . . .

Do you drink the whisky before, during, or after re-stringing?
All of the above?

Looks like you have backup strings just in case.
Do you also have backup bottles, just in case?

". . . a bottle of brandy and a song,
are the only ones who care . . ."
- Hoyt Axton



Be well, drink well, string well, and play well.
Does one of these not belong?
Nah.

Don
.

[jmhill]

Originally Posted by Charlie Bernstein

Have any other suggestions for making it a not-so-arduous job?

Thanks!

I usually cut the strings to length before I start to wind. Makes it easier to not have to deal with the excess length of string flopping around.
If you use round core strings, dont do this, but any normal "hex" wrapped strings will be fine.
Also, invest in some type of motorized string winder. Makes it much easier, especially on slot heads. You won't have to sit there cranking away.

Finally, on a more serious note....Beer tends to help make it more enjoyable ;P

Cheers

[RJVB]

Originally Posted by Steve DeRosa

You need one of these:

I find string winders usable only for unwinding the old string(s) on a slothead....

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Mark Stone

I may be the strange one here, but after 50 or so years of stringing up both paddles and slots, there’s really very, very little difference.

Sixty years in my case, but my findings are identical.

I prefer the ergonomics of slot heads, so most of my guitars are.

The best "tip" for stringing that I can offer is to use your pliers to make a sharp 90 degree bend one "hands width" past the intended string post, cut the string 1/2" past the bend you created, insert the string and wind. (Making the sharp bend BEFORE "pre-cutting" ensures that there's no relaxing of the wound string windings when they are cut.)

All the rest of the instructional ideas can be utilized, but that's the only one that truly makes stringing easier.

Taylor's instructions for "first wrap to the inside, others to the outside" is good when stringing a Taylor but it doesn't need to be the "rule".

In the real world you'll find the string post hole location, slot position, slot size, and slot angle all vary from guitar to guitar. Wrap them so they look good and the string doesn't end up contacting the edge or thimble of the slot.

You can balance that concept with how the strings actually angle to their respective slots. Excessive angling is counter-productive to smooth tuning, so temper your winding procedure to minimize any contact while not creating excessive angle to the slot.

It ain't that difficult.

[jpmist]

So I just read the thread and have a few not mentioned.

My best tip is to use a toothpick to keep the unwound strings from slipping as you begin to tighten them. Snap them shorter of course, but stopping the strings from slipping prevents a major fail point of the process.

It's taken me a while to work this out, but the classic standard shop technique of laying out your guitar horizontal with a neck rest just makes the whole process harder. I usually sit on a chair or couch above a rug and keep the guitar vertical while stabilizing it with my knees.

This makes it so much easier to rotate the neck as needed when threading the tuner and starting the wrap. I fully expect this to be laughed at and ignored, but for changing out just one guitar the whole process goes a lot faster when you can stabilize the guitar with your knees and rotate the guitar easily as you thread the strings.

[jaymarsch]

You might want to check out the video that Silly Mustache has posted a few times here on how he changes strings on a slothead. I found it helpful. Maybe he’ll see this thread and chime in later.
I use similar items and aids that Steve posted but just different brands. :-)
Best,
Jayne

[dneal]

Tips?

• Use the Taylor measure/cut method.

• If round core strings, get at least a 90 degree bend before cutting

• No need to "tie" anything unless you're literally tying nylon strings on a classical

• Wind the string to the inside or outside based on what clears the wood at the slot

• If plenty of room, choose "inside/outside" based on angle at the nut or compressing the winding. There are arguments for either

[phavriluk]

Originally Posted by Charlie Bernstein

Love my OMI Dobro roundneck, but I put off restringing forever because the headstock slots are such a nuisance.

So far, I've learned:

- Capo the loose string to keep it on the tailpiece.

- Snip the end after just a turn or two instead of waiting till the winding is done.

- Don't try to make a luthier's knot. Just wind.

Have any other suggestions for making it a not-so-arduous job?

Thanks!

Partience, grasshopper...

[RJVB]

Originally Posted by dneal

[*] Wind the string to the inside or outside based on what clears the wood at the slot

FWIW, on string instruments without tuning mechanisms (i.e. friction pegs, think violins and cellos) the trick to stable intonation is to ensure the string does touch the wood. This creates a torque pulling the (conical) peg inwards so it's less likely to lose grip when you need that least.

[sinistral]

Originally Posted by Mark Stone

I may be the strange one here, but after 50 or so years of stringing up both paddles and slots, there’s really very, very little difference.

Originally Posted by The Bard Rocks

Agreed. I prefer slotted because winding the G, B & E strings is so much easier.

I too am puzzled why people struggle with changing strings on slotted headstocks. Mechanically, it’s the same thing as a paddle headstock, just rotated 45°.

[Silly Moustache]

Originally Posted by donlyn

Have any tips on stringing slotted headstocks?

Yes.

Don't buy a guitar with one.

I use my nails as picks.

Be well and play well,

Don
.

Sigh, If like donlyn you have some sort of physical limitation then follow his advice and miss out on some of the finest, most ergonomic and downright prettiest guitars out there.

I'm writing this because although it might be amusing, I don't think we should be spreading misinformation here.

I have thirteen slotted headstocks including two 12strings and a National (sadly my Dobro is a paddle headstock as are my three archtops and two other flat - tops which are "in the image of" Gibson styles.

For most modern slotted headstocks see my video that sinistral ( a fellow lefty) kindly published on response no.8. It can be accomplished quite easily.

Dobro headstocks (like Nationals) tend to have pretty thin slots (5/16" !!!) and that does make them a little more difficult

However it can be done with a slight adjustment to my process,

There is no problem with removing all the strings although the cone and spider/bridge can move a little. Worry not!

1. Remove the strings. Once loosened. It is easiest to cut them in front of the saddle and pull them through the holes in the tail piece.

2. Clean and polish as necessary.

3. Thread new strings UNDER the hand rest over the saddle (whether Dobro or National), seat the string barrels into tailpiece holes. IMPORTANT ! Put some (painters) tape over all six strings holes/tailpiece crossbar to stop them moving.

NOTE: I find it easier to work from outside to inside i.e. 6th and 1st first string.

4. Cut strings about 1.5-2" AFTER the winder capstan and put a 90 degree bend in the end of the string. Wind on 6th, first loop inside, rest on outside. Do same with first string (cut 2-2.5" past capstan) - mirror image.

5. Thread strings carefully through saddle slots.

With "some" tension on strings, check and adjust with these two strings and adjust intonation.
NOTE : (I lever gently between cone and cover plate with a small screwdriver - DONT touch cone!)

6. Install 5th and 2nd strings -as above (intonation should be OK as long as cone/spider is correctly located. First wind outside rest inside.

7. Install 4th and 3rd strings. (double check that ALL strings are in saddle slots.

8. Remove masking tape from tailpiece - check that string barrels are properly seated.

9. Bring strings to tension.

10, "Pull" strings to "settle/stretch/equalise and adjust tuning as necessary.

Go play!

Same process whether round or square neck.
Hope this helps - ask questions - no problem!

Ol'Andy

Pic 1 -tailpiece on square neck Dobro Mod27 Deluxe (chickenfoot coverplate)
Pic 2 - tailpiece on round neck National Estralita Deluxe)
Pic 3 headstock of National shown slots (only 5/16" wide)

[RJVB]

Originally Posted by sinistral

Mechanically, it’s the same thing as a paddle headstock, just rotated 45°.

Twice, as in 90° - and that makes all the difference