1950 Martin 00-17 saddle removal difficult...

[Alalush]

Hello all,

I am cleaning a vintage 0017. I have been able to clean the tuners in WD40 very easily, now they still look vintage but are at least again well functional. I also added new tuner buttons (exact replicas from Willi!).

But now I also need to make a new bone saddle because action is bit too low. Problem is I can't get the old saddle out of the bridge slot... I assume its glued in (hopefully with hide glue)

Thoughts on how to remove that tight (possibly glued in saddle? I saw somewhere online a luthier using a heating lamp above the saddle with protection carbord alu foil so that the braces or bridge itself doesn't come loose... I also saw some use bridge heating blank from stewmac but I cannot buy that here in Europe.

Thanks!

[redir]

You can try to heat it and remove it but many times they need to destructivly removed. That is accomplished by cutting the saddle flush to the bridge and then using a back saw sawing the center line of the saddle down to the wood. Usually they pop out at some point but if not use a chisel to remove the waste.

[Fathand]

Can you heat the saddle with a household clothing iron? Thats how I heat bridges for removal. Wrap cardboard in aluminum foil to protect the top. Warning, if its a plastic saddle it might melt.

If it's hide glue, soak a piece of towel in hot water then lay it on the saddle to soak in for a while. I removed a bass fiddle top this way.

The sawing technique would work for an open endend saddle slot but wouldn't a 1950 guitar have a drop in saddle? Rout it out with a dremel? Drill multiple holes in it and chisel it out?

[redir]

Oh for some reason I got that in my head that it was a through saddle, scratch that advice or save it for when you do encounter one.

Yeah if someone glued that in then it will not be easy to remove. Routing out might be your only solution.

[pagedr]

A 1950 00-17 would have a cut through saddle if the bridge is original.

[Alalush]

True. Its a cut through saddle (saddle runs quit long along the bridge slot and tapered down at both ends).

I was thinking to maybe use a soldering iron to heat up the bone saddle and add slight bits of water so the glue can weaken...

[redir]

It might work, try it at least.

[JonWint]

If it's the original saddle, it's elephant ivory. They were used into the 60's on all models.

Use a heat lamp and drops of water, repeat as necessary, and slowly try to pull it out with wire cutters. Add ivory (piano keys) or bone shims to the bottom, glue with CA, and re-radius the ends.

[Alalush]

Originally Posted by JonWint

If it's the original saddle, it's elephant ivory. They were used into the 60's on all models.

Use a heat lamp and drops of water, repeat as necessary, and slowly try to pull it out with wire cutters. Add ivory (piano keys) or bone shims to the bottom, glue with CA, and re-radius the ends.

Thankq for the info. Why would I need to glue in a new saddle? I was planning just to make it very snug so it fits in well.

[JonWint]

The CA glue was for the shims. The saddles are usually glued with wood glue into the bridge.

Through saddles are glued to provide more strength against splitting the bridge; compared to drop-in saddles which usually aren't glued because there's more wood beyond the saddle to resist splitting.

[redir]

I like to use end nippers with the edges dulled. If they are sharp they break the bone. Work along the whole length rather than at one edge.

[Alalush]

Thanks all!
I used a soldering iron and some pipet water drops. Worked like a charm!

[DickHutchings]

Great! Did you see any glue in there?

[Alalush]

Originally Posted by DickHutchings

Great! Did you see any glue in there?

Yes but very little glue was used! Almost did not hzd to clean the slot.

[Alalush]

New saddle, tight fit.