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  #16  
Old 03-17-2015, 03:36 PM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
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I glued a dark brown veneer inside the slots for the classical guitar (nylon strings :





When you look at the back of the head you will only see carbon fiber, the slots for the classical guitar tuners are not visible from the back like this :



Here are some different sound hole options, i am thinking about.





As stated earlyer, the body was to thin so it could be dented, thin is good for vibration, but a ploink sound when the back pops back is bad.

This padouk wood strip will stop that.



Gluing it in :



Neck mockup (sideview of the fingerboard with binding, and carbon fiber neck (not sure if i like it).

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Last edited by littlesmith; 03-17-2015 at 06:36 PM.
  #17  
Old 03-18-2015, 01:27 PM
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Padouk glued in :






Preparing to put the dots in:

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  #18  
Old 03-18-2015, 06:50 PM
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That Padauk strip does not look very thick. Doubt it will do much.
  #19  
Old 03-19-2015, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by printer2 View Post
That Padauk strip does not look very thick. Doubt it will do much.
Hi!

It helped to get rid of the ploinky ploink.

The layer was to thin so it could be dented. The padouk was only a measure to prevent the back from popping. the real model will have the proper thickness so this wood will no longer be needed.

The back has an arch in it, so it is difficult to bend the wood against the arch.
i made a before and after movie : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_sd...ature=youtu.be

----------

Glued the second strip :



Dots finished :

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  #20  
Old 03-23-2015, 12:47 PM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
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Finally, after more then a week waiting i have my hollow carbonfiber 6x6mm square tube. This will resist the linear force of the string tension.



I am using the big guns, hehe It is very important to use the proper glue for composit to composit, composit to wood, or composit to metal.



There is another piece of wood on top of the carbonfiber tube. so the fingerboard has something under it. I am also thinking about injecting the rest of the neck with a carbon/wood epoxy pulp.


I want to do a kickstarter to build new molds and enhance the overal production quality as well as buy cheaper materials (almost 40% when you buy 100m instead of 1m) . This crowdfunding campaign will feature a limited series of a maximum of 8 guitars.


I want to have the composit making/baking mold, a cutting mold and a glue mold. Then the parts can hop from one to another, this will save alot of time and improve accuracy since all the tooling is dedicated per job...

My new workspace allows for this all on 1 worksurface, the baking mold will roll on linear bearings into the oven.
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  #21  
Old 03-25-2015, 10:05 AM
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Decided to put the solid round bar in the opposite direction of the hollow square tube :



The fretboard will have support for downward force, all the way to the last fret.


Wrapped the juncture with loose carbonfiber strands saturated in epoxyglue.



It sill start to look like a guitar soon, and then it will be a little bit more relatable then all this carbon stuff ^_^

I wanted to wait with shaping the soundboard untill i have the stability i`m after in the body, because the soundboard will be dropped into the body and i don`t want any gaps.

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  #22  
Old 03-26-2015, 10:19 AM
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Shaped and fitted the cedar soundboard to fit exactly (no bindings yet)

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  #23  
Old 03-26-2015, 03:50 PM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
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Inlay the rosette :















Glue with epoxy glue with a black epoxy dye. Dont know if that was smart, black was coming through the rosette itsself, Thats why you prototype a model. I`ll try to clean it up tomorrow.^_^



Oldest clamps are the best, from a time where people made quality, and not profit junk.
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Last edited by littlesmith; 03-26-2015 at 04:05 PM.
  #24  
Old 03-26-2015, 03:54 PM
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The guitar is currently 1449 gram (3.19449818 pounds).

This picture is from before the rosette inlay :

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Old 03-27-2015, 03:53 PM
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Cleaned up the rosette :



1 layer of thin spray varnish to protect this delicate cedarwood for the next operations. You can dent this super fast.

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Last edited by littlesmith; 03-27-2015 at 06:12 PM.
  #26  
Old 03-27-2015, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlesmith View Post
Cleaned up the rosette :

1 layer of thin spray varnish to protect this delicate cedarwood for the next operations. You can dent this super fast.
While I am not a luthier, I believe that you want to keep the soundboard unfinished so that the bridge (+/- fretboard) can be glued to it cleanly.

There was a notorious phase in Guild's history when they were gluing bridges to finished soundboards. The result was that most of those bridges came unglued within a few short years.
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  #27  
Old 03-28-2015, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBE View Post
While I am not a luthier, I believe that you want to keep the soundboard unfinished so that the bridge (+/- fretboard) can be glued to it cleanly.

There was a notorious phase in Guild's history when they were gluing bridges to finished soundboards. The result was that most of those bridges came unglued within a few short years.
Hi!

That is correct, you should remove the varnish for the bridge.

Some guitar companys use a router to get the finish off. I have even seen a youtube video of a japanese company where they use a chisl to get the varnish off. In my opion, Japanese chisels are the best, they are using the knowledge of their past in sword making in tools, like folding layers of steel and quenching the edge.

Isn`t that amazing?!

I`m gonna put the bridge on with 2500psi epoxy glue. I am now thinking if i should make an ebony bridge or a carbon fiber bridge.
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Last edited by littlesmith; 03-28-2015 at 06:00 PM.
  #28  
Old 03-30-2015, 12:57 PM
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Bracing pattern with extremely thin pultruded carbon strips (0.6mm = 0.02 inches) :



reinforced all the cavitys in the head with industrial epoxy glue :

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Last edited by littlesmith; 03-30-2015 at 05:48 PM.
  #29  
Old 03-30-2015, 05:45 PM
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Carbon strips glued, extra glue in the sides, painted black, 2 clearcoats :



Removing the paint, cleargoat and glue along the edge (violin plane, the size of the last bit of your pinky finger) :



Clean the entire lining and inside of the carbon fiber that extends upwards :



Gluing the soundboard on the unibody 2500 psi industrial glue and with binding tape (Didnt cut the soundhole yet for structural integrity and straight lines :

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Last edited by littlesmith; 04-01-2015 at 12:59 PM.
  #30  
Old 03-30-2015, 06:27 PM
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Did you put any arc on the top? What humidity level are you building in?
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