The Acoustic Guitar Forum

Go Back   The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Custom Shop

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools
  #271  
Old 04-26-2016, 03:56 AM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: the netherlands
Posts: 297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by printer2 View Post
Don't know about anyone else, but the pictures seem a little large to me, have to scroll around to see all of them.
Yeah, that doesnt happen when i take the URL from twitter, but these URL`s are from facebook...
__________________
build, learn, grow
  #272  
Old 04-26-2016, 07:31 AM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,621
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by printer2 View Post
Don't know about anyone else, but the pictures seem a little large to me, have to scroll around to see all of them.
Works fine for me...
  #273  
Old 04-26-2016, 12:11 PM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: the netherlands
Posts: 297
Default

If you have windows 7 you can do Control + mousewheel scroll to zoom in and out.
__________________
build, learn, grow
  #274  
Old 04-28-2016, 08:45 AM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: the netherlands
Posts: 297
Default

I had a stewmac blade that was produced out of spec (too wide), i have the replacement blade now. My saw table was not the most expensive (somewhere in the 200 Euro range) the mechanics are wobbly which sucks. I had to remake the sled, which has no more play, that`s a good thing.

Still, the ends of the fretslot were getting too wide, you can see what i mean on the 2nd fretslot from above in the padouk fretboard (red wood) on the left, it gets wider. I found out i can solve this by ramming the fretboard into the saw with high speed (sounds very illogical, i know). If i ram it in, the wider area is only 3 millimeter instead of 1.5 centimeter, so now the wider area falls outside of the final dimentions, so it can be cut off. This was quite the battle with a lot of frustration. I even made the new blade thinner with a wetstone.





The machine has oak wood as the sliders and a lowered area for my hands, i drilled into the stewmac template so i can just screw the template onto the wood, i don`t like this double sided tape method (the holes fall ouside of the final shape).



__________________
build, learn, grow

Last edited by littlesmith; 04-28-2016 at 08:53 AM.
  #275  
Old 04-30-2016, 04:39 AM
PeterF PeterF is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pembrokeshire, Wales
Posts: 65
Default

Are you using blade stiffeners with that fret slotting blade? It sounds like vibration could be causing the wider slots. http://www.lmii.com/products/tools-s...lotting-system
  #276  
Old 04-30-2016, 06:22 AM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: the netherlands
Posts: 297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterF View Post
Are you using blade stiffeners with that fret slotting blade? It sounds like vibration could be causing the wider slots. http://www.lmii.com/products/tools-s...lotting-system
Thank you, i never heard of blade stiffner, i think that would help. It is indeed the vibration of the motor mechanics + how thin the blade is that is causing this issue.
__________________
build, learn, grow
  #277  
Old 04-30-2016, 07:57 AM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,621
Default

You don't need the stiffeners. Add a sacrificial board to the fence on your sled, or make a new one just for fret slots, and cut the kerf with your slotting blade. This way it will be supported by the wood when it exits the fretboard
  #278  
Old 05-01-2016, 06:13 AM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: the netherlands
Posts: 297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieAtienza View Post
You don't need the stiffeners. Add a sacrificial board to the fence on your sled, or make a new one just for fret slots, and cut the kerf with your slotting blade. This way it will be supported by the wood when it exits the fretboard
You mean so it would exit in a scrap behind the fretboard and not in the fretboard itsself? I guess it doesnt even need to be big, just 1 centimeter on the entry and 1 on the exit or something.

Thats pretty clever.
__________________
build, learn, grow
  #279  
Old 05-02-2016, 04:53 AM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,621
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by littlesmith View Post
You mean so it would exit in a scrap behind the fretboard and not in the fretboard itsself? I guess it doesnt even need to be big, just 1 centimeter on the entry and 1 on the exit or something.

Thats pretty clever.
If it were me, I'd make it thicker, at least 3mm...
  #280  
Old 05-02-2016, 08:07 AM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: the netherlands
Posts: 297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieAtienza View Post
If it were me, I'd make it thicker, at least 3mm...
1 centimeter is 10 millimeter.
__________________
build, learn, grow
  #281  
Old 05-02-2016, 08:08 AM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: the netherlands
Posts: 297
Default

This is the most complicated thing i ever made. This isn`t even the mold yet, this is just the shape to make a negative mold.



This is how the ridiculously expensive heating blanket from the aerospace industry will be positioned under the mold. It has a built in temperature control that can go up to 120 degrees Celcius. The carbon fiber / fiberglass Hybrid 2.0 acoustic guitar body will be post cured at about 85 degrees Celcius.

__________________
build, learn, grow
  #282  
Old 05-02-2016, 08:25 AM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,621
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by littlesmith View Post
1 centimeter is 10 millimeter.
LOL some reason I thought I saw mm.... almost never see cm used, mostly mm. Should be fine...
  #283  
Old 05-02-2016, 11:34 AM
littlesmith littlesmith is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: the netherlands
Posts: 297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieAtienza View Post
LOL some reason I thought I saw mm.... almost never see cm used, mostly mm. Should be fine...
Yes, millimeters and meters are sometimes used outside of metric system countrys. The US army uses the metric system, but they are talking about meters or kilometers. When you talk about precicion engineering like guitar building, millimeters is the norm.
__________________
build, learn, grow
  #284  
Old 05-02-2016, 10:28 PM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,621
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by littlesmith View Post
Yes, millimeters and meters are sometimes used outside of metric system countrys. The US army uses the metric system, but they are talking about meters or kilometers. When you talk about precicion engineering like guitar building, millimeters is the norm.
Use millimeters a lot in CNC, as a lot of components are made in metric units, and dimensions always stated in millimeters. Though for my "work" I wouldn't use anything but Imperial units... force of habit maybe, but works just fine. Interestingly, the controls are set up for Imperial units on my CNCs, though the leadscrews are mm.
  #285  
Old 05-08-2016, 09:20 AM
Monsoon1 Monsoon1 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: N.E. Ohio
Posts: 1,736
Default

I can understand the idea of wanting to make a board that can vibrate in a more pure manner. But I think you could have saved yourself quite a bit of time and money by running experiments on a loose soundboard vs. one attached on a traditional acoustic, without ever having to deal with all the carbon fiber molds.

Perhaps using equipment that could have measured the decay rates of vibrations from the loose top to a traditional top, to see if there was a significant difference. It is certainly possible that an attached top could prove to be superior in doing the job of vibrating along with the strings. And you would want to know that sooner than later.

That being said, i'm a firm believer that you can do all sorts of things in the building of a guitar and still wind up with good sound.

Good luck on your finished product.
__________________
Something something, beer is good, and people are crazy.
Closed Thread

  The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Custom Shop

Tags
tools vs craftsmanship

Thread Tools



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, The Acoustic Guitar Forum
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=