#1
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I am thinking about my first build?
I have tentatively decided to do my first build using a b/s set of Koa that I have had for some time. I think it will make a very nice looking guitar paired with nice top which I have yet to decide on and I thought seeking some advice from you more experienced builders would be advisable. So if anyone has a favored sound appearance combo I would greatly appreciate any and all suggestions. Just as an opening to the discussion I would add that I do have on hand a selection of soundboard woods including some nice Sitka spruce, some Adirondack, Engelmann and Sinker Redwood so the hand written label says.
I know that tone is a personal thing but here i would appreciate what you might have to say about the combo you prefer with Koa and something of your reasoning if you would be so kind as to venture your opinion. Thanks Jim |
#2
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I can't speak to the tone as I have not played a Koa guitar but appearance wise, a Koa top looks great on a Koa guitar.
I did have an all koa uke and it had a wonderful tone. |
#3
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Flip a coin.
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#4
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Well I guess that is one way to look at it. all of the tops that I have in hand all look very acceptable and probably would be fine. I just thought someone may have some notions worth consideration regarding any particular wood combination that might be more or less desirable. I guess my engineer may be showing looking for a reason. Silly me. I haven't even considered using a Koa top on the guitar. I guess I should think about that also. Having heard you say that I seem to remember reading somewhere about someone having an all Koa guitar. May work out. I only have a back and side set though. lol
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#5
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Quote:
Heres a 1933 Martin 00-18K I was just in my basement looking at the koa board I bought a few years ago, trying to decide the best way to cut it around the imperfections to yield some sets. |
#6
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It really doesn’t matter which typical conifer you choose for your top on your first guitar as long as it is a suitable piece of wood. All-Koa has challenges I would not recommend for a first build, with all respect to your other advisors.
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#7
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You haven't mentioned the size or build style. That is at least as important as the woods used.
Intended use should also be considered. |
#8
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Dog gone Jimhar don't you have a mediocre set of mahogany to start with?
I'm not underestimating your talent! The trail is littered with well intended wood. |
#9
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Luthier Alan Carruth is fond of saying, "Spruce is spruce," meaning that the middle range of spruce he tested for it's weight, stiffness and so on tends to all be the same through different species. So John brings up a good point asking what kind of guitar are you building? If it's a small parlor guitar then choose the piece of spruce that you have which is the least stiff along the grain. If it's a dred then pick the stiffer one. Regardless of the species. |
#10
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Quote:
Thanks Jim |
#11
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I heard that Western Red Cedar and Redwood can have difficulties with gluing, splitting, and denting, so I would avoid it for your first build. Spruce is generally pretty easy so I would go for one of the Spruces.
If you haven't done so already, I would classify the pieces of wood by comparing their weights and their flexibility. If you can take measurements and get values for stuff like modulus of elasticity, that would be really helpful. Hopefully somebody can help you take measurements if you are so inclined. But even if you don't take measurements, at least I would see which top is heavier, which top is more flexible, etc. That'll help guide you as you decide which top you are going to use for which guitar. As Mr. Arnold mentioned, you need to understand what type of guitar you are making and what you'll be using it for. If you want to create a size 0 guitar for fingerstyle, you'll probably want a light piece of wood. If you want a dreadnought for bluegrass picking, you'll probably want to go heavier. |
#12
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Quote:
Top Wood: Sitka, Adirondack, Engelmann, Birch, Sinker Redwood, Cedar B/S sets: Honduran Mahogany,Wenge, Koa, Black Limba, Padauk, Brazilian Tigerwood, Bubinga, Maple, East Indian Rosewood, Quilted Mahogany, Monkeypod, Goncaloalves, Purple Heart, Brazilian cherry,Honduran Rosewood, Zebrawood, Mahogany Figured I have been spending time setting up my shop and getting needed specialty tools and along the way acquiring some wood. I'm just now getting somewhat able to breathe. There isn't an end to buying things you need is there? Thanks Jim |
#13
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Your comments on stiffness and use are big help. You always seem to find your way to the heart of the issue. Always look forward to hearing your input. Thanks Jim |
#14
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Figured koa needs much more care - if there is a lot of curl then that is where it is likely to separate during bending. A metal bending strap is a must for curly grain, and even then there is some risk. If this is your first time bending then you won't yet have the feel for when to pause and when to carry on. I'd suggest some practice bending - walnut bends about as easily as koa and is fairly cheap. You could cut a practice side in half and put as many tight bends as you can in each part. Then maybe do the same with mahogany, which can be quite tricky (or dead easy, it's a lottery!). Read up different techniques (soaking, spritzing, spraying dry, using SuperSoft) and try some out. I'm saying all this because koa is hard to get, and matching your back if you break a side is likely near impossible. The other point is thicknessing figured koa - I find the figure can sometimes tear out very easily, so you'll want to practice planing with a close set cap iron, and scraping, so you have an armoury of techniques to avoid this. |
#15
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By all-Koa, I meant the Koa top, not the back and sides. Koa is a pretty ordinary back and side material, as far as the work goes. Hardwood tops are more variable from one piece to another and require evolved judgement skills if the guitar is to be properly functional. No one is likely to develop a big-picture guitar making concept w/o making quite a few guitars. One step at a time.
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