Emerald Pin-less bridge restringing

[KevinH]

Emerald has released a new video on string changes with the pinless bridge. Alistair uses the same method as before, just maintaining tension on the string after inserting the ball end into the hole. No golf tee. He does make it look easy.

On another note, the guitar Alistair is stringing has a light-colored fretboard. Anyone know what that is? I'm assuming its not a colored CF.

[David Eastwood]

Originally Posted by KevinH

Emerald has released a new video on string changes with the pinless bridge. Alistair uses the same method as before, just maintaining tension on the string after inserting the ball end into the hole. No golf tee. He does make it look easy.

On another note, the guitar Alistair is stringing has a light-colored fretboard. Anyone know what that is? I'm assuming its not a colored CF.

The ‘light’ coloured fretboard is the material they’ve been using for a couple of years now. It looks dark straight on, but lighter on an angle. They introduced it sometime in 2019, IIRC, right after I ordered my X20-7. I asked them at the time if they could do the dark, glossy fretboard my 2018 X20 has on it, but the answer was ‘no’.

In practice, I really couldn’t care less. They both look great, and I’ve never been able to detect any difference in feel in any fretboard material ever.

[David Eastwood]

These arrived today. I’m going to have to tackle that 12-string pinless bridge soon…IMG_2073.jpg

[KevinH]

Originally Posted by David Eastwood

The ‘light’ coloured fretboard is the material they’ve been using for a couple of years now. It looks dark straight on, but lighter on an angle. They introduced it sometime in 2019, IIRC, right after I ordered my X20-7. I asked them at the time if they could do the dark, glossy fretboard my 2018 X20 has on it, but the answer was ‘no’.

In practice, I really couldn’t care less. They both look great, and I’ve never been able to detect any difference in feel in any fretboard material ever.

Yeah, I wouldn't really care about it either. Just curious if they'd made a change or had yet another customizable option I might have to think about.

Oddly I can't get my new X-20 fretboard to look anything but black. Maybe shiny black at low angles. Must have been the lighting and background in the video.

[seannx]

I’m posting this again…

Santa Rosa luthier Bob Groat lowered the saddle on my first X20 to specs Kevin gave me, and returned it with a 2” length of 3/16” wood towel, tapered down to 1/8” over 3/4” on one end. It’s the perfect tool to hold the ball end in place when changing strings. Bending the ball end is key, too, but it’s not so easy to keep enough tension on the string so that it doesn’t come out of the slot. I used it on my new X20 and it made changing strings so much easier. IMO Emerald would be wise to ship a similar tool with their pinless bridge guitar models.

The above is a simple solution, easily made, and makes string changing a breeze. Without something to hold the ball end in position, keeping tension on the string makes the process more complex.

[jdrnd]

Originally Posted by seannx

I am posting this again

Santa Rosa luthier Bob Groat lowered the saddle on my first X20 to specs Kevin gave me, and returned it with a 2” length of 3/16” wood towel, tapered down to 1/8” over 3/4” on one end. It’s the perfect tool to hold the ball end in place when changing strings. Bending the ball end is key, too, but it’s not so easy to keep enough tension on the string so that it doesn’t come out of the slot. I used it on my new X20 and it made changing strings so much easier. IMO Emerald would be wise to ship a similar tool with their pinless bridge guitar models.


The above is a simple solution, easily made, and makes string changing a breeze. Without something to hold the ball end in position, keeping tension on the string makes the process more complex.

I agree. I use a spare bridge pin.

[redi]

I think the pin-less bridge under the saddle may have evolved (or I have) since it was initially released. Possibly slot depth - I will have to stick a phone cam in there to be sure, but...

My early one does require some attention to keep the ball end in place during a change.

The newer one I changed strings on this weekend really seemed to hang on without any fuss at all.

Possibly my imagination since I've done it a few times.

[Dlarkin62]

So here's a guitar maintenance tip for changing strings.
If your guitar has a bridge which holds the ball end of the new string in a slot beneath the soundboard (rather than with pegs for example), like Emerald guitars utilize, and you are frustrated by the string end popping back out while you are working on the other end at the tuners, utilize a CAPO to hold tension on the string in the bridge slot, freeing up both hands to thread the tuner end of the new string.

[Dlarkin62]

After leaving old strings on my Emerald guitar too long, due to dreading fighting with the bridge slot design, I had an epiphany. I put the new string in the bridge slot and pulled tension on it to keep it seated, then I put my CAPO on the neck to hold tension on the string, which freed up both of my hands to work on the tuner end of the string. It worked for all 6 strings without the ball end popping out once. Now I can change the strings on the Emerald as rapidly as any of my other guitars.

[Dlarkin62]

Originally Posted by KevinH

Emerald has released a new video on string changes with the pinless bridge. Alistair uses the same method as before, just maintaining tension on the string after inserting the ball end into the hole. No golf tee. He does make it look easy.

On another note, the guitar Alistair is stringing has a light-colored fretboard. Anyone know what that is? I'm assuming its not a colored CF.

So here's a guitar maintenance tip for changing strings.
If your guitar has a bridge which holds the ball end of the new string in a slot beneath the soundboard (rather than with pegs for example), like Emerald guitars utilize, and you are frustrated by the string end popping back out while you are working on the other end at the tuners, utilize a CAPO to hold tension on the string in the bridge slot, freeing up both hands to thread the tuner end of the new string.

[Captain Jim]

Could a person use a capo to hold the strings in place after you seated the ball in the slot? Asking for a friend. 'Cause I would use a capo. That might work. Using a capo, that is.

I am being conservative with band width, putting all three suggestions of a capo in just one post.

[VJP5]

Originally Posted by Captain Jim

Could a person use a capo to hold the strings in place after you seated the ball in the slot? Asking for a friend. 'Cause I would use a capo. That might work. Using a capo, that is.

I am being conservative with band width, putting all three suggestions of a capo in just one post.

I tried Alistair's method, as well as an Allen wrench and golf tee, but using a capo has been the easiest for me. I seat the ball, put tension on the string and capo around the 11th fret. It is remarkably easy to move up to the headstock and finish from there. Yes you have to do this 6 times, but at least I am not frustrated anymore with the ball end popping out. Also, I am no longer worried about accidentally damaging the hole or bridge. Maybe I am not as skilled as everyone else, but the capo took all the stress/concerns out of changing strings.

Like someone posted earlier, I believe the change to a pinless bridge was a solution looking for a problem. But since you can't get a new one without it, the capo is my go-to methodology.