Yamaha FG300 for £850? Any advice..

[robodelfy]

Hi

I had a Yamaha FG300 my dad gave me which he owned from new in the 70s. It was battered but played so well and sounded great. I loved it, but accidentally ran it over with my car (Don't ask!). I was so upset and never got over it. I even got a Martin D18 at some point, but sold it as it couldn't replace it

So I keep an eye out for the FG300s in the UK but its rare they appear. I have just seen one in a place where I can see it in person as its not too far. Its in seemingly very good condition, but they guy wants £850 for it, as he said he saw a site which said that was the average price.

He bought it at an auction, doesn't play or know about guitars, so that worries me a little more. I would love to buy it off someone who had owned it from new or a long time

What price would be acceptable for this guitar, if it is in good condition and plays well, has no or few issues? Any ideas

And can anyone give me any advice for what to check when I go. I am not a pro when it comes to setting up guitars or finding issues. I am getting new strings to re string it at his house, as it has old strings

Any advice appreciated
thanks

[Thom PC]

I am no expert on these older Yamahas — I understand they are very well respected, and I am not surprised as my more modern LS-6 is a very good guitar as well — however, my gut feeling is that 850 £ is pushing it. Others will hopefully correct me if I am mistaken in this regard.

With respect to checking the guitar you should look for any structural damage, fret wear, and intonation issues (bring a tuner). Make sure the neck is straight, check neck angle, string action, and relief (if you are unsure how to do this, I am sure that a search here or on YouTube will help you out).

Lastly, of course, check if you like the general playability and sound of the guitar.

Good luck!

[musicman1951]

On this side of the pond they seem to go for closer to $800 (which I believe would be closer to 600 for you). When things are hard to find they tend to get more expensive.

[robodelfy]

Thanks, I'm going to look at it on Monday. I'm just wondering...

How can I tell if the neck would have any room to go to make the action lower? Would I have to try and turn the truss rod to see if it can, or is that a bad idea?

I'm worried like many old guitars it will be as low as it can go, and if it ever needed neck reset apparently these guitars can be a nightmare

I don't want to spend this much and find out after it has many issues. But I don't know what choice I have without having a professional there to check it all over!

[biotechmgr]

Originally Posted by robodelfy

Thanks, I'm going to look at it on Monday. I'm just wondering...

How can I tell if the neck would have any room to go to make the action lower? Would I have to try and turn the truss rod to see if it can, or is that a bad idea?

I'm worried like many old guitars it will be as low as it can go, and if it ever needed neck reset apparently these guitars can be a nightmare

I don't want to spend this much and find out after it has many issues. But I don't know what choice I have without having a professional there to check it all over!

I've had two FG335, 1977 and 1980.
No success in getting it to adjust via truss rod.
I might guess you may not be able to have it set up.
The overtones are nice for fingerstyle.
The 77 is toast and the 80 is fine as a 200 dollar guitar.

If you find a gem, it might be worth it. Otherwise sounds pricey, and maybe a little risky.

[SheiLaLa]

This article has some suggestions for checking out an older guitar (once you get past the author's reasons to buy one) that may be helpful.
https://www.guitarnoise.com/lessons/...oustic-guitar/

If you search on "how to check out a used acoustic guitar" or something similar you may find something more specific to your neck/action height concern.

Good luck!

[Yamaha_Hunter]

Hi robodelfy
I have a Yamaha Fg300
I love it I posted a really good up for sale last month from reverb from a band that used it has their main guitar
But it looks like it sold
It was around that price you are being told
Anyhow

I would look for an early model FG300
They have a smiley pin shape like 90s Taylor's
And they have ( Abolone Yamaha ) letters in the front from real abalone

The very early ones were Brazilian Roosewood Laminate
They are built like a tank
But be careful of the original pickguard
They are famous for separating or crumble as it ages
Let's see what else
Look at the neck make sure it doesnt need a neck reset or if the top is not caving in the metal bridge area.

It's a beautiful instrument
I got my for $500 Brazilian rosewood and it's my project guitar.

Best of luck in your musical journey
Yamaha_Hunter

[robodelfy]

Originally Posted by Yamaha_Hunter

Hi robodelfy
I have a Yamaha Fg300
I love it I posted a really good up for sale last month from reverb from a band that used it has their main guitar
But it looks like it sold
It was around that price you are being told
Anyhow

I would look for an early model FG300
They have a smiley pin shape like 90s Taylor's
And they have ( Abolone Yamaha ) letters in the front from real abalone

The very early ones were Brazilian Roosewood Laminate
They are built like a tank
But be careful of the original pickguard
They are famous for separating or crumble as it ages
Let's see what else
Look at the neck make sure it doesnt need a neck reset or if the top is not caving in the metal bridge area.

It's a beautiful instrument
I got my for $500 Brazilian rosewood and it's my project guitar.

Best of luck in your musical journey
Yamaha_Hunter

Thanks for the advice. So what is the best way to check if it needs a neck reset? As the guy above said he couldn't adjust the truss rod. I'm not sure I can really ask the seller to let me try and adjust the truss rod either. I've not seen these adjustable saddles before, I guess I want to see that if the action is ok, that the saddle is not at its lowest, meaning there is nowhere to go? But then I have no idea if the truss rod has any room to move

Strangely, 2 have appeared at the same time in my area, one in worse condition the the other, with saddle replaced with bone saddle

Here is the £850 one

Here is the £550 one in worse condition

The first one I spoke to the guy, he knows nothing about guitars, he bought it at auction. That worries me slightly!

I'm going tomorrow morning to look, so would be great to know what Im doing!

[Thom PC]

Hm, it is kind of a tough call. If you are not really confident that you can check the interplay between string action, neck angle, neck relief, and saddle height then I would be hesitant to advise you to buy without a more experienced guitar tech by your side. I am no expert myself, and although it is not exactly rocket science, I find that I would have a hard time trying to explain the steps involved. Of course, this forum, Google, and YouTube will hold all the info needed, but again - if you are not really confident in your ability to assess, then all the internet research in the world is no match for actual experience.

On the other hand you might say, hey, if I like the way it plays and the sound it makes, I’ll just jump right in and hope for the best - if it is 50 years old and works for me now then it just might work for me a long time still down the road. Personally, I would not take that risk, as 850 £ would still be a somewhat significant investment for me, but your priorities may be different from mine, and I understand that this particular model holds some sentimental value for you.

[robodelfy]

Originally Posted by Thom PC

Hm, it is kind of a tough call. If you are not really confident that you can check the interplay between string action, neck angle, neck relief, and saddle height then I would be hesitant to advise you to buy without a more experienced guitar tech by your side. I am no expert myself, and although it is not exactly rocket science, I find that I would have a hard time trying to explain the steps involved. Of course, this forum, Google, and YouTube will hold all the info needed, but again - if you are not really confident in your ability to assess, then all the internet research in the world is no match for actual experience.

On the other hand you might say, hey, if I like the way it plays and the sound it makes, I’ll just jump right in and hope for the best - if it is 50 years old and works for me now then it just might work for me a long time still down the road. Personally, I would not take that risk, as 850 £ would still be a somewhat significant investment for me, but your priorities may be different from mine, and I understand that this particular model holds some sentimental value for you.

Thanks yeah I'm a little worried too about spending so much on something if I don't feel qualified to check. But I think I will be able to notice any major problems. I also am not prepared to pay £850 as I think its overpriced for this guitar. I could perhaps got to £600 or so, but I imagine he won't take that

We'll see! I will try and be thorough. I am going to re string it for him, which is a start!

Thanks again for all the help

[Thom PC]

Good luck - and let us know how it turns out!

[robodelfy]

Hi everyone

I've just been to see the first one, the one for £850 in good condition

It seems well looked after. A few things I noticed maybe you could comment on...

- it sounds quite dull even with new strings on, they are 80/20 cheap Martin's as that's all I could get today. But compared to my modern tanglewood.with super old strings it sounds dull even. Dull may be the wrong word, but it's not a bad thing. Maybe it needs different strings? Phosphor bronze perhaps. I guess most old guitars sound warmer and softer?

- there is a small crack along the bridge pin holes, which I know is common. It's not wide at all, is thus an issue? I re strung it no issues, or cracking noises.

- action seems ok and the bridge doesn't look like it's been messed with, the adjustable saddle seems to have space to go, but hard to tell

- I thought I could see the tiniest twist in the neck looking down the headstock, but may have been fooled by the angle of the nut. If it's there it's very slight, could it be an issue?

- finally the new 12s I put on buzz a bit around the 9/10/11 fret on every string
Are the strings just too light? The ones I took off look a bit thicker, maybe they are 13s? If not would this be a simple setup job. Maybe setting it up is quite easy with the adjustable saddle

The guy is nice and genuine, an old guy who got it at auction. He said he'd do it for £650 as I was hesitant about price. I need to decide by later

Any thoughts would be great

[Yamaha_Hunter]

Hi robodelfy

Hope I'm not to late

I would play the the second one
The more beat up one
With the replaced saddle
Someone took the time to replace it and probably took it to a good luthier to do the replacement saddle work
It may be in worse cosmetic condition but it looks like it was a player guitar which means it sounded good enough to be used and used for practise which means it sounds good or better to the owner to have keep it for a while

Also the second one has reddish and swirls like a Brazilian Rosewood if i was local i would just have got it.. looks like mine from the back

But most important play both
If you dont like the sound
You wont play it
And will probably sell it

It's a hard call but I would play both
And have my eye on the second one

I'm not sure about the others
But my fg300 sounds like mixture with Taylor 810 bright and sustains and a Gibson hummingbird woody and dry sound Iovely
I love my

P.s if you decide on the second one be aware the re-sell will be lower and attraction lower also since collector want and prefer the metal saddle so selling it have lower traffic
Probably why his price is much lower
But it could be a hidden gem for you
That you may enjoy with the single bone saddle
Just be aware of that also

Best of luck in your musical journey Yamaha_Hunter

[robodelfy]

Originally Posted by Yamaha_Hunter

Hi robodelfy

Hope I'm not to late

I would play the the second one
The more beat up one
With the replaced saddle
Someone took the time to replace it and probably took it to a good luthier to do the replacement saddle work
It may be in worse cosmetic condition but it looks like it was a player guitar which means it sounded good enough to be used and used for practise which means it sounds good or better to the owner to have keep it for a while

Also the second one has reddish and swirls like a Brazilian Rosewood if i was local i would just have got it.. looks like mine from the back

But most important play both
If you dont like the sound
You wont play it
And will probably sell it

It's a hard call but I would play both
And have my eye on the second one

I'm not sure about the others
But my fg300 sounds like mixture with Taylor 810 bright and sustains and a Gibson hummingbird woody and dry sound Iovely
I love my

Best of luck in your musical journey Yamaha_Hunter

Hi, no you're just in time as I'm even more confused! Thank you for your help

So I went to play the second one, and was shocked at how different it sounded, it sounded brighter and so much more sustain, it sung! As I mentioned before the first one with the original saddle sounded dull. And it buzzed around the higher frets on all strings, and above the 12th fret barely sustained at all! What could this be? The Frets, the saddle? I know a lot of people didn't like the tone of these adjustable saddles. I restrung the original saddle one today with 12s 80\20 bronze, and the replaced saddle one also has 80/20 12s on, so its not that.

I was set on getting the original saddle one when I left him as he said he'd take £600. But this other one has really confused me!

It has had a bone saddle put in, and looks very neat the way they've cut out a section of the bridge and spliced in a another part, leaving the original part of the bridge in tact with the inlays etc. It does have more dings and a burn/crack in the back. He said he would go as low as £500, so it's pretty close in price

One thing I noticed about the one with the bone saddle is behind the bridge it has a bit of a bulge. How much of a bulge is acceptable here? The action is really nice, and the bridge and saddle seem to be full height, in fact the saddle looks very high, lots of room for adjustment in the future. Also the bone saddle one doesn't have huge slits in the bridge where the strings have dug in, where as the other one does (see photos)

And finally I have a feeling the bone saddle one has been re fretted, as they look so much newer and less worn. Its hard to believe they could be 50 years old. Maybe this is playing a big part in the tone being so much brighter/better

Also the bone saddle one comes with a case, the gold lined Japanese ones many of these Yamaha's come with

So I'm a bit stuck. The original saddle one is in better condition (looking) and all original parts, so will hold its value better, but sounds substantially less good and no case.

Here are some photos (I was a bit rushed sorry!), also in each folder is a quick recording of each...but in different rooms so not very accurate, but you can hear how much more dead the original saddle one is, as if its got extremely old strings on

Photos and sound samples of the Guitars


Thanks again for all your help!

[Yamaha_Hunter]

Hi Hi robodelfy

the second one
As soon as you started playing in seconds I I feel in loved with it. Yes the same with mine sweet like honey.
My has is caving down the saddle I'm guessing from the metal saddle and added pressure it tend to do that.
You may have found one the few Brazilian Rosewood FG300
If you get it take it to the best luthier in your area
It may be a bit pricier but it all depends if you want to buy it to actually play and use or if you will buy it for re-sell purposes or as a collector

If you buy it and want to sell it later on
Ill be more than happy to buy it from you
It sounded amazing

Best of luck in your decision

Yamaha_Hunter