A couple of questions about string gauge

[WilliamTK1974]

Hello everyone,

This is my first posting here, so I'll go ahead and say that I'm the proud owner of two acoustic guitars: a Dean Daytona that I bought new around 2003 and a new-to-me Seagull S6 Classic that I purchased last weekend. I think it's less than a year old. I took lessons back in 2010, but a combination of personal and professional factors forced me to put all that on hiatus. I may start them again, but either way, I've decided that this will be my year to get good enough to play around the theoretical campfire.

My question's about string size. My Daytona's currently strung with .010's, and the Seagull has .012's. I can't remember what Dean recommended for the Daytona at that time, though their newer offerings seem to use .012's. Seagull appears to ship new guitars with .012's. Those heavier strings are really something to get used to. It feels like the action on the Seagull may be higher than the Dean. I can take a measurement at the 12th fret later today.

Would it be a good idea to compromise a bit and string both guitars with .011 strings? Seagull's FAQ says you can go up or down one gauge from standard without an issue. I just don't want to have damaged my Dean with too light strings. I know sore fingers are part of the process, but am wondering if .011's would offer the functionality of a .012 with a little bit of finger relief.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you,
-William

[TokyoNeko]

Hi there, and welcome to the AGF.

Regarding the Seagull, you shouldn't have any problem transitioning to .011-gauge strings. I don't know anything about Dean, other than the perception that it's a budget guitar primarily meant for beginners. But all I can say is that any factory-made steel-string acoustic guitar (other than really old vintage guitars) that cannot handle .011-gauge strings probably isn't built correctly.

Nevertheless, here are some practical recommendations I can offer:

1) Stick with .010 on the Dean, and switch to .011 on the Seagull. The transition between the .010 and .011 isn't as dramatic.

2) Use the "normal" .011 on the Seagull, and put on the "Martin Silk and Phosphor" (.011-.047) on the Dean. The Silk and Phosphor have low tension, so it would be like using almost any other .010 strings from the tension perspective.

3) Take your guitars to a reputable local guitar tech and have them set up. There's nothing like spending a few bucks to ensure that the guitars are enjoyable to play rather than a physical challenge. Talk to the tech about any preferences you may have, so that he/she can set you up right.

Hopefully this will help, and I'm sure there'll be other tips coming your way.

[Wade Hampton]

I agree with Neko about taking your guitars to get looked at; it never hurts to have a pro take a look. As for the strings, you can go that light if you must, but the strings are the only thing driving the top (as opposed to a solid body electric guitar, where it’s the pickups driving the sound.). So the lighter you go on those, the less tone and volume you’ll have.

Personally, I think you’re better off getting both guitar set up for .012’s, because once they’ve had a proper set up, they should play just fine, even with those “heavier” strings.

Hope that makes sense.


Wade Hampton Miller

[WilliamTK1974]

Thanks for the comments so far.

I'm not sure Dean still makes a guitar with the name Daytona. It was in the beginner/1st guitar range, but when I was shopping, it had a fuller bodied sound than a lot of the bigger name brands and a solid spruce top. I could afford the guitar and a nice hardshell case, where if I'd spent more on the instrument, I couldn't get a case like that within the budget constraints at the time.

It's been a good player and I can't imagine that it would have issues with .11 or .12 strings. But I had a heckuva time getting calluses back when I played more regularly. It's like my oily skin was resistant to the idea, so lighter gauge strings made the experience less unpleasant.

There's a shop not far from my house that has a good reputation for their sales, lessons, and work done, so I may pay them a visit soon.

The Seagull may not be the biggest step up, but it does feel like playing in a different league.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by WilliamTK1974

Thanks for the comments so far.

I'm not sure Dean still makes a guitar with the name Daytona. It was in the beginner/1st guitar range, but when I was shopping, it had a fuller bodied sound than a lot of the bigger name brands and a solid spruce top. I could afford the guitar and a nice hardshell case, where if I'd spent more on the instrument, I couldn't get a case like that within the budget constraints at the time.

It's been a good player and I can't imagine that it would have issues with .11 or .12 strings. But I had a heckuva time getting calluses back when I played more regularly. It's like my oily skin was resistant to the idea, so lighter gauge strings made the experience less unpleasant.

There's a shop not far from my house that has a good reputation for their sales, lessons, and work done, so I may pay them a visit soon.

The Seagull may not be the biggest step up, but it does feel like playing in a different league.

Hi William

Hello and welcome to the forum!

Sore fingers applies to new players, but if you have been playing a couple years, if the soreness doesn't change in a week, it's time to change the action (it would be good to have that done anyway).

String gauges are only recommendations, not mandates. You can string guitars with any string gauge and formula you like. In fact, it's pretty inexpensive to experiment, since we all need string changes anyway.

I have 4 acoustics and one of them (my main guitar) is strung with .011 strings while the others wear .012. As already mentioned by Wade, a checkup of the action by a tech is helpful in both lowering the action of the Seagull so it plays easier, and possibly switching gauges of strings at the time you have it setup.

Mainly what changes when you reduce string gauge is volume not tone. You may also change the balance of volume (for instance going to .013 the bass may get louder than the treble whereas it may be the other way around with .010).

It's very dependent on you playing your guitar, with your touch and style. Opinions vary because they are based on us playing our guitars with our touch and style (and our experiences).

Hope you find the action which suits you.

[vindibona1]

It's a good practice to take your guitar in for at least an inspection. A lot of guitars benefit significantly from a professional setup. The Seagull sounds like a good candidate for getting it set up so it's easy to play. Once you have that settled then you can go about choosing strings.

As people have suggested, Martin Silk and Steel strings are good candidates as are DR Sunbeam strings which have a round core and thus lower tension than the listed gauge. There are also strings sets designed around tension rather than gauge.

Good luck.

[WilliamTK1974]

Yesterday, I dropped by the local GC and grabbed a couple of sets of Martin Silk & Steel in 11.5 gauge. The tech said either guitar would work well with regular .011's as well.

I restrung both guitars with the Martins, and it appears to have been a benefit to them. I can't remember the number, but I used a vernier caliper to measure the distance between string and fret at number 12, and they're within half a milimeter of each other. They're both more comfortable to play and sound good. The Seagull may have benefited more as it's easier to fret the #1 e string with my pinky.

[Pura Vida]

Seagulls are fine guitars, but notorious for shipping with high action. As others said, it would be money well spent to have it professionally set up. Good luck and happy playing!

[JayBee1404]

I'd echo what others have said - get thee hence to a good guitar-tech and have both guitars properly set up. Your fingers will thank you for that, and you may well find you can handle strings with a bit more 'muscle' - remember that 12s are classified as 'Lights'.

I have 13-56 on my Dreads, and 12-54 on my OM and Lowden, and I have my guitars properly set up by our local guys. There's no difference in ease of playing between them. All play nice and easy - the secret is in the set up.

[WilliamTK1974]

OK, the Seagull is currently at the shop near my home waiting to be adjusted. I explained to the tech that I was a new player and understood that finger soreness was part of the experience, but that I had a feeling the action on the guitar was too high. When I took it out of the case, he said it was visibly too high and that an adjustment would make for a much more pleasant playing experience. It should be ready Saturday.

Given that both guitars were within a milimeter of each other, the Dean would also benefit from this treatment. I'd be willing to have a go at it myself, but I can't get the saddle to come out of the bridge. Can't find anything online that says whether or not the saddle was glued in place.