#1
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BOLTED NECK JOINT - THREADED BRASS INSERTS
I'm building another resophonic. Here's some bolted neck joint detail - threaded brass inserts.
My local builders club got to tour Kevin Ryan's shop. I HIGHLY recommend this if you get the opportunity. On my reso build, I decided to use the the 1/4"-20 brass inserts Kevin showed us. I drilled .312" and tapped, rather than drilling the manufacturer-recommended .375 hole. I think the slotted brass thread cutters are a bit soft on the inserts, so, as recommended in a previous internet post, I made a tap from a galvanized 3/8" lag bolt (it's a very close thread match). I slotted the lag bolt threads on a slight undercut angle, which made cutting edges on the threads. I used JB Weld for a bit of insurance. |
#2
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Great approach and well engineered tooling improvisation.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#3
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Thanks for the useful information! Did you use any aids to make sure the holes were squared up to the tenon when you drilled them? I'll be doing a butt joint neck soon, and would appreciate any tips. Great work!
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#4
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You can get those in stainless and eliminate the tapping step.
__________________
"My opinion is worth every penny you paid for it." "If you try to play like someone else, Who will play like you". Quote from Johnny Gimble The only musician I have to impress today is the musician I was yesterday. No tubes, No capos, No Problems. |
#5
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threaded insert insertion tool
For those who don't want to improvise a tool to drive in threaded inserts, I've found them at Woodworker's Warehouse, in many thread sizes. Nice part about them is they are t-handled (look like hex keys) and being so, are easy to use to center the threaded insert in the hole.
As for the threaded insert tap, that's by my lights a real stroke of inspired innovation. Never would have thought of it by myself. And it's so nice to have a tool that helps remove some of the worry about splitting the heel. Thanks very much! |
#6
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Forgive me for being dim, but you have a maple neck, and you have installed a tenon of a different wood, am I right ?
Also, I may be mistaken here, but from the pictures, the tenon seems to have the same grain orientation as the neck ? |
#7
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Looks like a 3 piece neck Murr.....
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#8
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Quote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIhEqoKE8Dc Quote:
You are correct, all three pieces are end-grain in the pictures. I assume you are alluding to the fact that the end-grain has less holding power than cross-grain. This is why Ryan (and now I) apply super-glue. You'd be surprised how far that stuff penetrates. Here's a better picture: Last edited by H165; 11-18-2018 at 03:32 PM. |
#9
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Quote:
Great idea on the CA glue. I met Kevin Ryan in 2016 at Woodstock, and one could not meet a nicer guy who was ready and willing to talk shop! |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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__________________
"My opinion is worth every penny you paid for it." "If you try to play like someone else, Who will play like you". Quote from Johnny Gimble The only musician I have to impress today is the musician I was yesterday. No tubes, No capos, No Problems. |
#12
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OK - I see them - Thank you!
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#13
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I personally would still tap the holes. This way, you're cutting the threads not displacing wood- and that could have disastrous results depending on what wood you use.
Or better yet, use threaded studs on the neck heel, and use cap bolts (internally threaded) inside the guitar. Since yo only have to put the threaded studs in once, you have no need for grommets and the threaded studs have a coarse thread, and smaller diameter than an insert. |
#14
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On the topic of stainless steel...
I love the idea of pre-tapping for the insert. It looks like it makes for a better purchase and makes it easier to drive. It occurs to me that Stainless Steel lag bolts have really sharp threads and may make for a better tap than a galvanized lag. |
#15
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I've done it that way on quite a few guitars though not a tenon but a butt joint. I do now use a dowel though. Having had one heal crack at the insert was enough for me to rethink it.
And I did used to, and still do, flood the face with thin CA. I also like to epoxy the inserts in for good measure. |