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Those who use fingerpicks
Something I am wondering about, do the users of fingerpicks find that fretboard radius ( and here I am thinking about string curve at the bridge) makes a difference one way or the other to how accurately the right hand can play ? Or no difference really?
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#2
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No, not really at least in my case. What makes a lot of difference with this is how your picks are placed on your fingers so that they strike the string in a way that works for the tone you are seeking.
So, I have "assigned" picks (Pro Pic Fingertones which I use) to individual fingers....they go on exactly the same way each time. The one for the index finger has a little tape on it for identification. That one is set so that I turn it slightly, it's not flush on that finger so as to pick the string at the best angle. The pick on my middle finger is straight on, no twist. Everybody has their system, I'd guess......but I think the bottom line is consistency with the placement of your picks which will bring forth your best playing.
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#3
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stai scherzando? |
#4
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Yes, THIS! I take care to ensure that my picks always go on the same fingers, and that they always go on with the correct amount of ‘twist’ to ensure they strike the string cleanly and without ‘scraping’ on the wound strings. Whenever I hear anyone playing and getting that ‘scraping’ sound, I think “You need some ‘twist’ on those picks”! BTW, I also use ProPik Fingertones.
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John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#5
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#6
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Well coming from someone who plays 'flat saddle' instruments as well as regular guitars that's a very relevant observation.
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#7
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Make sure you have a small pair of needle nose pliers, a mill bastid file and a multi surface manicurist board when you start fitting them. They need to be fitted to the taper of your fingertips, of course, but also to the contact angle that YOUR hand has with the strings. THAT is perhaps the most important step of all. They also need to be fitted to the upward curve of your fingertip, and the loop that allows the finger pad to protrude should also be 'twisted' to better form to the surface of your fingertip. I've gone as far as to notch the contact surfaces where my ring finger pick touches my middle finger finger pick. You can see the notches in this shot: I use the mill file to thin the loop towards the tip, and to remove the resulting burr I use the multi surface emery board until it shines. I've actually had a couple of Pro-Pik Finger Tone picks break from metal fatigue. The issue is that my fingers are a bit swollen when I wake up in the morning, and by the end of the day they're way thinner! What I've done besides fitting them as perfectly as possible is to just put them on in the morning, and ignore the tightness. They'll be more comfortable at some point, but at least I won't have to make another one because it broke in the middle of the main support band. Regards, Howard
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#8
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Thanks for the instructions Howard, takes some preparation to get the best out of those, with Alaska picks I seem to get best results by filling the inside of the nail slot down to 2mm so the pick sits further up the finger, as they come I find them too long but filing down the playing surface spoils the clear tone and makes them too quiet for my liking.
Last edited by Andyrondack; 11-22-2020 at 01:51 AM. |
#9
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I’ve never felt comfortable with Alaska picks, but their huge advantage is being able to frail with them!! HE
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