#61
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Very insightful views on top tuning! Thanks for sharing how does a luthier know when the braces are right? Do they have a "perfect pitch" for the tap that they look for in every guitar? I know some resort to methods like chaldni patterns, deflection testing, speakers, etc. But I believe many still stick to their hands and ears to feel and hear the resonance/pitch of the top?
And Larry seems like a great bloke!
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#62
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Quote:
Quote:
The intuitive aspect of luthiery is quite amazing and somewhat mysterious. It seems to develop over time after building many guitars. Larry is (in my estimation) 75% intuitive, 25% analytical. e.g. he and I discussed the brace width for this guitar. Larry typically goes with .28", I asked him to consider .25". Factors we discussed were the stiffness of the top, the size of the body, the fact that it is a short scale. In the end, Larry mulled it over for a day, and ended up going with .25". Luthiers certainly run the gamut from intuitive to analytical. I suspect those who take a more analytical approach to building still rely on their intuition to make certain decisions. Yes, Larry is a very good bloke. Kind, patient, generous. A good friend.
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually |
#63
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Body Shots
Larry has been busy the last week in his studio and catching up on repairs.
I dropped by and had lunch with him (Subway...lunch of champions), and got a few pics of the body with binding in place. It has not been sanded, but it's looking pretty good, if I do say so. Ribbons and beeswing, oh my! Here's something a bit different for those who like vintage electrics... While I was at Larry's, an older gentleman showed up to pick up a repair. He came in with a worn case, put it on the table, and popped it open... 1955 Les Paul Gold Top, all original, original owner. Don't see that everyday...
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually Last edited by OddManOut; 04-15-2016 at 02:20 AM. |
#64
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Quote:
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____________________________________________ 1922 Martin 0-28 1933 Martin 0-17 1974 Alvarez/Yairi CY120 2010 Baranik Parlor 2013 Circa OM-18 2014 Claxton OM Traditional 2014 Blackbird Rider |
#65
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That is a seriously nice looking guitar!! Coming right along!
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#66
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Fretboard/Headplate Glue Up
Many thanks! I think we're looking at a June completion. Quote:
Larry glues the fretboard and the headplate to the neck. The FB is positioned, then nails driven in through fret slots 1 and 11 to anchor it in place. These holes will be covered by the frets. Using this method, the positions of the FB and the headplate can be accurately reproduced, thus allowing for FB and HP removal as needed. The headplate is positioned using the nut blank as a reference. Here the anchor nail is visible in the headplate. The resulting hole is where one of the tuner holes will be. The headplate caul accommodates the anchor nails.
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually Last edited by OddManOut; 04-17-2016 at 11:17 AM. |
#67
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Fretboard/Headplate Glue Up 2
Larry installs the edge markers. This is standard white rod stock.
Now rubberbands and clamps for the win.
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually |
#68
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Fretboard/Headplate Glue Up Completed
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually |
#69
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Head w/ Logo and Tuners
Here is the head with the pearl logo inlaid.
Decisions, decisions... I have to decide on tuners. Which would you choose? Gotoh 300 Series Black. Gotoh 510 Mini Gold/Black Keys Grover Sta-Tite Gold Open Back
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually |
#70
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I kinda like the open backs for some reason on this headstock.
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PS. I love guitars! |
#71
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Gotoh 300s have my vote.
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2013 Stehr Auditorium (Carpathian/Myrtle) 2015 Stehr Auditorium (Adi/BRW) 2020 Baranik Meridian (Blue Spruce/Manchinga) 2020 Wilborn Arum (Tunnel 14/Coco) 2021 Kinnaird Graybeard (BC Cedar/Bog Oak) 2022 Kinnaird CS Student Build (Adi/Padauk) 2023 Kinnaird FS (Italian/Koa) |
#72
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Quote:
I feel the open gear tuners are the most appropriate for a traditional 12-fret guitar in a stylistic sense. However, all my other guitars have open gear tuners. I would like something different. As it turns out, the two styles of Gotoh tuners here are totally interchangeable. I like the black tuner bodies with the more modern black buttons. So I'm going that way. It gives the most spartan look to my eye. If I want to change, I can swap tuners, buttons, get some after-market buttons, etc.. The final choice...for now. Gotoh 300 black tuners with the modern black buttons.
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually Last edited by OddManOut; 04-21-2016 at 09:02 PM. |
#73
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Binding Leveling and Body Sanding
Larry levels the bindings and sands the body. I saw the body in person and it has a wonderful silky, ribbon-and-beeswing mahogany look. It popped nicely under sandpaper...should be even better under finish.
The rosewood bindings are leveled to the body. The beeswing is poppin' a bit. The LMI glue shows up under black light so the minute traces can be detected and sanded off. A few shots of the sanded body. My 00-12 body and the body of the EIR/Adi dread currently being built.
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually Last edited by OddManOut; 06-11-2017 at 08:01 AM. |
#74
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Neck Shaping
Larry shapes the neck.
First Larry rough shapes base of the head for the volute. Now a bit of layout at the base of the head. Now the shaping commences. The top and middle of the neck are brought into close-to-final profile. Note here that the heel end is still very square.
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol); In the night you hide from the madman You're longing to be But it all comes out on the inside Eventually Last edited by OddManOut; 04-22-2016 at 12:50 PM. |
#75
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I love a mahogany body with rosewood trim. Simply elegant.
You've got to be pretty excited, it's looking great! Steve |