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#1
04-28-2019, 06:43 AM
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Bridge reglue question
In taking off a lifting bridge, some of the (laminate)spruce feathered up a bit......still attached at one end.
Would you glue that back in place before or during the bridge attachment process? Or am I over thinking this. Thanks! Dave
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Early Ovation classical 2001 Taylor 355 2002 Taylor 308 BB 2004 Taylor 214 2011 Taylor GC4 1964 Fender Stratocaster 1965 Fender Jazz Bass Fender Twin Reverb 
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#2
04-28-2019, 07:58 AM
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If you're using Titebond or another aliphatic resin glue, it adheres best to raw wood. As to whether you glue down the slivers first or not, can you properly scrape the old glue off the top with out gluing them down first? And sometimes slivers need to be pressed into place in fiddly ways that might be difficult to do while also gluing on the bridge. So it just depends on your particular circumstance.
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#3
04-28-2019, 08:18 AM
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Yes, Titebond original.
The bridge was actually glued down on top of the finish, so I had to deal with that fun first...learned about paying attention to runout while scraping too. So now it's raw wood.....with slivers. And they fit well.
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Early Ovation classical 2001 Taylor 355 2002 Taylor 308 BB 2004 Taylor 214 2011 Taylor GC4 1964 Fender Stratocaster 1965 Fender Jazz Bass Fender Twin Reverb
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#4
04-29-2019, 08:30 AM
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It depends. It's a case by case basis but you can do it either way, before or after. Doing it before is a little 'safer.' That way nothing slips around when gluing the bridge down.
But in this case, if the bridge was glued down to the finish, my guess is you have a lot of prep work to do anyway. So gluing the slivers back first then removing all the finish under the foot print would probably be best.
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#5
04-29-2019, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
It was a PIA removing the finish from the footprint left by the bridge. Mostly scraped it off with a razor edge so I'm bare wood now. Still a learning process so now I've learned how to watch for grain run out direction whilst scraping 😳
__________________
Early Ovation classical 2001 Taylor 355 2002 Taylor 308 BB 2004 Taylor 214 2011 Taylor GC4 1964 Fender Stratocaster 1965 Fender Jazz Bass Fender Twin Reverb
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#6
04-30-2019, 11:51 AM
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The problem with Titebond is that it doesn't stick to itself that good after it dries, so gluing the loose fibers down prior to regluing the bridge could be problematic. I'd recommend HHG (hot hide glue), which does stick to itself very nicely. Warm the bridge with a hair dryer or heat gun if the short open time of HHG is a problem.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al
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#7
04-30-2019, 01:40 PM
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Roger makes a good point. You would want to limit the squeeze out and cleanup if you went that rout first. HHG is not typically available for DIYers and it takes a bit of a learning curve to use it so often times it's not a reasonable suggestion but you could use fish glue and have the same properties of HHG that Roger is talking about. You could even use <gasp> Liquid Hide but ONLY if you make sure that the bottle date is fresh. Personally I would just recommend Titebond but just be careful with it. A tiny drop smeared along the the slivers, clean up with a damp rag, clamp tight suing cauls and then scrape back to wood like you did with your chisel.
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