an idea for an adjustable bridge/saddle

[mc1]

i wonder how well it would work to have a bridge that tightens, like a vise or clamp, to hold the saddle, with no need for the bottom of the saddle to touch the bridge.

this would allow for easy adjustments, and all the vibration would have to travel via the sides. but it would seem to practically guarantee a lot of good contact.

bad idea? has this been tried?

[Ned Milburn]

I vote for bad idea. It would create more problems that it could ever hope to rectify, don't you think?

[HHP]

Probably bad. How are you going to get contact with a UST pickup? What real problem would it solve.

[mc1]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

I vote for bad idea. It would create more problems that it could ever hope to rectify, don't you think?

well, that's why i throw it out. i seem to recall a thread recently, where a luthier (kent chasson?) mentioned that contact with the sides of the saddle slot without contact at the bottom was effective.

Originally Posted by HHP

Probably bad. How are you going to get contact with a UST pickup? What real problem would it solve.

i wasn't thinking about a ust pickup, but maybe it could be on the side.

the problems it would solve are twofold: easy up and down action adjustment; guaranteed contact between saddle and bridge.

it just a thought, though, i appreciate yours as well.

[tadol]

There have been a number of unusual bridge / saddle designs, and yours may be worth a try. The issue with using a UST is unimportant - only a percentage of acoustic guitars have pickups, and there are some really great options that would work fine with your design.

Draw it up and build one. Sometimes, you just have to try it -

[mc1]

Originally Posted by tadol

There have been a number of unusual bridge / saddle designs, and yours may be worth a try. The issue with using a UST is unimportant - only a percentage of acoustic guitars have pickups, and there are some really great options that would work fine with your design.

Draw it up and build one. Sometimes, you just have to try it -

thanks tadol. it is more just a hypothetical idea for discussion. if i had the skills, energy and time, perhaps i would indeed try it.

[stanron]

Gibson's 1960s attempts at adjustable bridges are now seen as compromised because they introduced extra weight and thereby suppressed sound transference. Have you visualised a way of getting the pressure without adding weight?

[redir]

I really think it's just reinventing the wheel, shims do the same thing essentially. And really if the guitar is built properly you may have to adjust the action only a few times in the entire life of the guitar unless you are supper supper fussy or move from Portland Oregon to Phoenix Arizona.

[mc1]

Originally Posted by stanron

Gibson's 1960s attempts at adjustable bridges are now seen as compromised because they introduced extra weight and thereby suppressed sound transference. Have you visualised a way of getting the pressure without adding weight?

i have not, but that is a very good point to consider.

Originally Posted by redir

I really think it's just reinventing the wheel, shims do the same thing essentially. And really if the guitar is built properly you may have to adjust the action only a few times in the entire life of the guitar unless you are supper supper fussy or move from Portland Oregon to Phoenix Arizona.

i'm not sure shims do the same thing. as i mentioned earlier, someone posted (something like) that side contact on the saddle may be as or more important as bottom contact. so this was just a thought of a way to ensure good contact.

i've wanted to raise or lower the height of my saddle before. but i agree it's not required too often.

[Brackett Instruments]

Like stanron I believe weight would be an issue. If easily adjustable action is what you're after I'd recommend an adjustable neck joint. Kent Chassom (who was mentioned earlier in this thread) uses an adjustable neck joint. Many other builders do also. (I don't) I suppose an adjustable bridge would be easier to retrofit to an existing guitar than an adjustable neck joint though.

Good thread though. Inovations happen because people try stuff. I bet alot of people didn't think "X" bracing would work with CF Martin started using it.

[mc1]

Originally Posted by Brackett Instruments

Like stanron I believe weight would be an issue. If easily adjustable action is what you're after I'd recommend an adjustable neck joint. Kent Chassom (who was mentioned earlier in this thread) uses an adjustable neck joint. Many other builders do also. (I don't) I suppose an adjustable bridge would be easier to retrofit to an existing guitar than an adjustable neck joint though.

Good thread though. Inovations happen because people try stuff. I bet alot of people didn't think "X" bracing would work with CF Martin started using it.

thanks, it's really just a thought for discussion. so much is made about proper contact at the bottom of the saddle, but i wondered about no contact at the bottom, but maximum contact on the sides.

[stanron]

Originally Posted by mc1

but i wondered about no contact at the bottom, but maximum contact on the sides.

A saddle wider at the top, thinner at the base, in a matching slot would achieve this. I don't know how I would cut the slot. Also it would have a splitting potential.

[mc1]

Originally Posted by stanron

A saddle wider at the top, thinner at the base, in a matching slot would achieve this. I don't know how I would cut the slot. Also it would have a splitting potential.

and it wouldn't be so adjustable, although maybe you could use shims at the side. but the angles would have to match, and 90 degrees seems like the easiest to achieve.

[stanron]

Originally Posted by mc1

and it wouldn't be so adjustable, although maybe you could use shims at the side. but the angles would have to match, and 90 degrees seems like the easiest to achieve.

Yes. I suppose you can get a 90 degree point router bit. Anyone want to experiment? The worst that could happen would be filling and re-routing the slot.

[mc1]

Originally Posted by stanron

Yes. I suppose you can get a 90 degree point router bit. Anyone want to experiment? The worst that could happen would be filling and re-routing the slot.

my post might not have been very clear. just to make sure we are on the same page, it still needs enough pressure from the sides to hold it in place.

i'll keep thinking.... thanks stanron for your input.