Low saddle

[Jmaulz]

I appreciate the feedback! One factor in having the action on the treble side so low (4/64") is that I use a .014 gauge high e string.

[JDaniel]

Builders here believe 4/64ths is really low? As an amateur builder, I would be very unhappy if I didn't come in exactly at 1/16". As a player, I wouldn't want it higher, maybe 5/64ths max on a bad day for e treble. The low E I would add 1/64th to get 4--5 or 4--6.

[MC5C]

Given that Martin factory specs are 4/64 - 5/64 for the high E string, being dead on spec would probably be considered a good thing. I consider 4/64 high and 6/64 low E pretty close to ideal, for any guitar. Higher than that I either adjust or have a reason for (like light strings or a player who brutalizes the poor dear). Lower than that seems to require a player with a particular touch. I set up my personal guitars just under that.

[D. Churchland]

Originally Posted by JDaniel

Builders here believe 4/64ths is really low? As an amateur builder, I would be very unhappy if I didn't come in exactly at 1/16". As a player, I wouldn't want it higher, maybe 5/64ths max on a bad day for e treble. The low E I would add 1/64th to get 4--5 or 4--6.

There's no "wrong" measurement. Keep in mind that not every player is a light strummer or fingerpicker.

In all honesty the best players I've met don't care what the measurement is as long as it feels right in their hands.

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by MC5C

Given that Martin factory specs are 4/64 - 5/64 for the high E string, being dead on spec would probably be considered a good thing. I consider 4/64 high and 6/64 low E pretty close to ideal, for any guitar.

I do warranty work on Martin Guitars, can you link where you got that info from. That info is news to me

Originally Posted by JDaniel

Builders here believe 4/64ths is really low? As an amateur builder, I would be very unhappy if I didn't come in exactly at 1/16". As a player, I wouldn't want it higher, maybe 5/64ths max on a bad day for e treble. The low E I would add 1/64th to get 4--5 or 4--6.

Acoustic guitars are not electric guitars, the two do not play anything alike, 5/64 is a tad high IMO and 4/64 tad low, the sweet spot I find for most players is 70 thou treb E 90 thou Bass E. Electric Guitars, a person can get them as low as 30 thou treb E and 45 thou Bass E without buzzing. Some people play differently, I have had one lady who had her acoustic taylor Treb E set at 40 thou, but the instrument lacked tone and energy/projection, other people I have set them up for 90 thou on treb E 110 on Bass and the instrument absolutely sounded great, the sweet spot is somewhere in between that allows the top to be driven and is not too uncomfortable on the fingers of the player

Steve

[bausin]

"I don’t like actions less than 70 thou on the treble e, need some string height to drive that top."

Mirwa,

I'm trying to understand how the action at the 12th fret could have anything to do with the pressure exerted on the saddle.

Suppose the action was 50 thou, and it played without buzzing, then you filed the frets to make the action 70 thou. How would that have any effect on the sound of the guitar?

[mirwa]

It has nothing to do with extra pressure being exerted, its about enough energy being put into the string to make the acoustic top move. Low action means softer playing which in turn leads to a quieter, non responsive guitar.

Steve

[brianhejh]

http://www.bryankimsey.com/GE_tuneup/

The attached link is Bryan Kimsey talking about low saddles / break angle /slotting in an attempt to get the best break angle with a low saddle.

My question: where a low saddle may represent a required neck reset? WOULD an experienced tech do the slotting and ramping technique first to extend the guitars playing life or would they generally proceed straight to the neck reset.

Therefore how common is the slotting technique, and does it work?

Thanks

Brian

[Truckjohn]

Most of the answer to that question depends on the desires and budget of the client. If the client insists on slotting and ramping the bridge to deal with a neck that needs a reset - most luthiers will respect the wishes of the client.

I think this is probably the right answer unless it's obviously an antique or super valuable guitar.... Then hopefully the luthier can talk some sense into the client.... Because replacing a bridge is a pain in the rear end....

[redir]

IMHO slotting and ramping is the proper way to build a bridge in the first place. So if that is the first step to avoid the cost of a neck reset and it works then I say go for it.

[charles Tauber]

There are three different things being discussed: slotting bridge holes, ramping bridge holes and a neck reset.

For pin bridges, the bridge pin holes ought to be slotted. Doing so provides space for the diameter of the string. The pin inserted in the hole displaces the ball end of the string so that the ball seats against the underside of the bridge plate and is what holds the string in place. The alternative is to not slot the pin holes and instead use a slotted bridge pin that accommodates the diameter of the string. The disadvantage of doing so is that the ball end of the string can ride in the bottom of the pin hole, in some cases, eventually enlarging the bottom of the hole.

Slotting of pin holes can also be used to move the exit point of the string from the pin hole closer to the saddle. Doing so can increase the angle the string breaks over the saddle. Ramping pin holes is an extension of that, bringing the exit point of the string closer to the saddle to increase the break angle.

In most cases, if the playing height of the strings over the fingerboard is excessive while there is insufficient projection of the saddle to lower the saddle and maintain adequate downward pressure on the saddle (i.e. the break angle will be too small), a neck reset is in order. For non-bolt-on necks, a neck reset is an expensive repair. In some cases, slotting and/or ramping of bridge pin holes will allow a low saddle adequate break angle. Similarly, in some cases, shaving of the bridge can also be used. Both slotting/ramping and bridge shaving are less expensive procedures and can be used is the owner of the instrument does not want to spend the money for a neck reset, or the value of the instrument doesn't warrant the expense.