#1
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Buffer buildup issue
Hi all,
Any idea what would cause a buildup to form while buffing Maybe buildup isn't the correct term. For whatever reason I'm left with a residue that forms on the guitar while I try to buff My buffer is homemade, the buffs are 12" Canton wheels from SM I'm using Menzerna medium and fine Compounds after wet sanding to 1500 I wound up trying to clean the residue with Naphtha in between sessions. It did work to remove the residue but the end result isn't what I'm looking for. I'm thinking the wheel speed is too slow. Any help would be greatly appreciated. SA |
#2
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I'm a furniture refinisher but lacquer is lacquer so the same general principle should apply. When I buff out a table top I use one pad with compound to buff the surface and then follow with a clean dry pad to remove any residue and even up the sheen. If you are using a fine and ultra fine compound you might need 3 pads. The last one should be absolutely clean and dry.
If you have compound build up use water not naphtha to clean up the residue. Follow with a clean soft dry Rag. You can get your pads pretty clean by rinsing with water and then spin dry on the buffer. Be sure to aim away from yourself or anything that does not need a shower. It is possible to melt the lacquer and cause swirl ridges if you let it run too long or get too hot. I usually only buff for 30 seconds or so then run the buffer in the air to cool it off. Mine runs pretty dang fast though.
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Nashville N500D (Martin D45 knock off) Harmony Sovereign H6303 Taylor 414ce Silver Creek T-160 Fender cd-140s Guild GAD-50atb Last edited by johna2u; 03-05-2016 at 05:36 PM. |
#3
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Thank you johna2u, I did forget to mention it's nitro.
I'll go with water like you suggested, that makes more sense to me. SA |
#4
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That should work great then. Nitrocellulose lacquer buffs out really nice. Same principle applies to a poly finish as well. I buffed out my Taylor and it worked fine.
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Nashville N500D (Martin D45 knock off) Harmony Sovereign H6303 Taylor 414ce Silver Creek T-160 Fender cd-140s Guild GAD-50atb |
#5
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SA with using the 12" wheels I am assuming you are using the dry buffing compounds? The reply from Johna2u sounds like he uses wet compound with a rotary buffer, if so the advice might not work as expected.
If you are using the dry compound the compound should powder relatively easily and leave more of a dusty residue in most places. Occasionally on edges there might be a little buildup with the more waxy bars but it has been fairly rare for me. The biggest thing would be to let the finish totally cool after buffing before wiping it with anything since the warm nitro can easily scratch. Perhaps you tried to clean the residue off too soon? I have found that naphtha does work better than water for removing residue that built up in corners if it won't come off with a soft rag. Kent |
#6
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What speed are you running your buffs at?
Did you break them in? Sounds like you may be using too much compound. Buffing with an arbor is a little different than doing it with a handheld polisher. |
#7
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Quote:
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
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Nashville N500D (Martin D45 knock off) Harmony Sovereign H6303 Taylor 414ce Silver Creek T-160 Fender cd-140s Guild GAD-50atb |
#8
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If it's dry compound, the last thing I do is rake the buffs and do a final pass. This usually removes almost all the dusty build up.
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#9
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My buffer doesn't run all that fast and I usually use an old violin fingerboard to heat up the wheel before I buff, seems to make it smoother somehow.
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THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE |
#10
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Thanks for the help everyone!
I changed the gear ratio on my buffer to get some more speed. It's working a lot better now. SA |