The Acoustic Guitar Forum

Go Back   The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Build and Repair

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #91  
Old 03-21-2020, 05:33 AM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Thank you!
Reply With Quote
  #92  
Old 04-08-2020, 12:35 PM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Hi!!!
Need some advice! I messed things up a little , started gluing the back bindings , but accidentally cut them short , and now there's a small gap at the neck end. everything looked fine.without glue, but once applied things went south. Decided to unglue this part before drying, but don't really know what to do next.



What do you guys think?? Should I just leave it like that, and fill the gap with glue? Any better fix to this??



I'm afraid I'd probably have to fill some small hairline gaps here and there with CA glue and rosewood dust, because I didn't glued purflings 100% tight with the sides in some places, but that's another story, and don't feel too concerned about it.

I also started to scrape the sides to level things out, remove glue marks etc, but those curly maple bindings are very difficult to scrape!! Should I leave the scraper and just sand the sides?? Scraping leaves an irregular rough binding surface.


This is proving to be a real challenge! Hope my mistakes and your advice can help others sometime.

Last edited by FPerezRoig; 04-08-2020 at 12:40 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #93  
Old 04-08-2020, 01:04 PM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Granby, CT
Posts: 1,459
Default A thought

Any chance OP was holding the scraper at right angles to the bindings? Everyone develops their own techniques, but I've encountered chattering like that if I was addressing the scraper at right angles and the chattering went away, for me, at a shallower angle.
Reply With Quote
  #94  
Old 04-08-2020, 03:17 PM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Thanks Phavriluk,

Tried different angles without success, maybe the scraper is not sharp enough? It shaves the purflings ok, but it doesn't make shavings but dust to the maple binding.
Reply With Quote
  #95  
Old 04-08-2020, 03:35 PM
Rudy4 Rudy4 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,527
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FPerezRoig View Post
Thanks Phavriluk,

Tried different angles without success, maybe the scraper is not sharp enough? It shaves the purflings ok, but it doesn't make shavings but dust to the maple binding.
Your scraper needs sharpening work. It's a bit of an art to doing it right, but if you're making dust then either the cutting geometry or how you are holding it needs to be addressed. Even on figured wood binding you should be getting super fine shavings that are thin enough that you can almost see through them.

You'll find if you make your binding cuts at an overlapping angle then it's much easier to create a tight fitting joint. If you're careful you could still get an almost invisible lapped joint, even if you have to insert a small piece.
Reply With Quote
  #96  
Old 04-09-2020, 01:21 AM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

I'm watching some tutorials and will try to sharpen the scraper as good as possible. Will practice in some unused binding material and make sure it works before using it on the guitar.

I'll try to carefully add a small piece of binding , cut at an overlapping angle. Sounds tricky, let's see if I can get it right. Thank you!!!
Reply With Quote
  #97  
Old 04-20-2020, 11:57 AM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Hi,

After some practice and sharpening the scraper I was able to get thin shavings out of it. They're so thin that they break into dust when handled, but I was able to start scraping the back bindings with success. Great!!!

Followed your suggestions, and cut the bindings at an overlapping angle. It was hard, and managed to get, while not completely invisible, a good enough fit.

Next I applied a coat of shellac and started binding the top. I learned my lesson after binding the back, and I'm very happy about how I glued the top bindings.
Have a look!!



The thing is, however, that CA glue ran under the binding tape, and removing it left some tape residue on the top, which I guess is a mix of tape glue and CA glue. I'd like to remove this residue before applying more CA glue on the parts of the top once covered with tape. How should I do that??? Scraping these zones and then applying glue again?



I'm really excited, my first guitar body is almost finished!!! Hope you like the binding design I chose.
Can't wait to further work on the neck.

Thank you.
Fran
Reply With Quote
  #98  
Old 02-03-2021, 06:17 AM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Hi!! It's been a while...
Couldn't work on the guitar for some months, but I'm back.
Thought I'd share a couple more pictures of the process and ask for some advice.

The body is finished and I scraped the bindings flush. Only need to round the binding edges and soundhole, and sand the entire thing.

Installed some neck bindings as well, added some decoration on the heel, and tuner holes are drilled and reamed.

Still have to close the binding at the end of the fretboard and at the nut. The binding channel was hit at this area and now I have a mahogany gap under the black-white-black strip. What is the best way to fill this kind of gaps? I'm used to fill rosewood small gaps with CA glue and sandust, but this gap is somewhat bigger, and not sure how CA glue will work with mahogany.








Last edited by FPerezRoig; 02-03-2021 at 06:23 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #99  
Old 02-03-2021, 09:39 AM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Granby, CT
Posts: 1,459
Default A thought

I think this little PITA can get resolved without much drama: A sliver of mahogany , flat surface against the purfling + mahogany sanding dust, and I'm guessing this will do the job nicely. No reason for only sawdust fill. I'd experiment with CA/dust to see if the colors are all right, and if not experiment with Titebond/dust. Possible the sliver itself + drop fill will do the job, too. Can always drop fill with epoxy, too. Or epoxy/sanding dust instead of CA/sanding dust. Big part is the mahogany sliver.

Like all advice in forums, verify before committing to the procedure on the instrument.
Reply With Quote
  #100  
Old 02-04-2021, 01:47 AM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Thanks Phavriluk,
Will try in a piece of leftover mahogany and see which method gives best results.
Reply With Quote
  #101  
Old 02-05-2021, 02:10 PM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

CA glue darkened mahogany too much, but some titebond mixed with dust did the trick really well!
Now it's time to finish binding the neck, and next step will be locating the bridge and making sure the neck angle is ok. I've read a lot about the subject but hope you could give some advice!!


Last edited by FPerezRoig; 02-05-2021 at 02:15 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #102  
Old 02-05-2021, 02:47 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,377
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FPerezRoig View Post
I've read a lot about the subject but hope you could give some advice!!
You'll need to be pretty specific with your questions to get detailed responses.
Reply With Quote
  #103  
Old 02-05-2021, 03:06 PM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Sure, of course. I'll post my thoughts and progress in a few days, and let's see if I'm in the right track.
Thanks for taking the time to have a look at this thread, hope you all like how the guitar is turning out.
Reply With Quote
  #104  
Old 02-10-2021, 04:57 AM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Had the time to make some measurements, calculations, and adjustments regarding bridge position and neck angle.

Here's what I have:

A bridge height of 0.375 inch (9.5mm).
A 16 inch radius fretboard with a height of 0.25 inch (6.3mm) measured at its centreline.

Scale length: 24.9 inch
Target action at 12th fret: 1st string -> 0.08 inch (2.03mm), 6th string -> 0.1 inch (2.54mm)

Fretwire height is 0.043 inch (1.09mm).
Saddle width is 0.093 inch (2.38mm).

Given the target action and scale length i calculated the following compensation. After reading and filling the form on this site (https://www.liutaiomottola.com/formu...mpensation.htm)

1st: 0.0743 inch (1.887mm)
2nd: 0.1393 inch
3rd: 0.0791 inch
4th: 0.1097 inch
5th: 0.1329 inch
6th: 0.1757 inch (4.46mm)

Once I calculated compensation, I positioned the bridge on the guitar top, and put some tape to mark the correct position. I positioned it so the centre of the saddle slot lies at 2x the distance from nut edge to the 12th fret + the calculated compensation for the first and sixth string)

Then put a straight edge on top of the fretboard, without frets installed, and set the neck angle so that the straight edge rests on the top of the bridge just touching it.

Once I install the fretwire and strings, I expect the string tension will pull somewhat the neck, so the added pull will compensate the height of the fretwire (0.043 inch) and a straight edge on top of the frets with strings installed should (I assume) rest again on the top of the bridge.

Is this a good starting point?
Is the target action at 12th fret reasonable? I play a combination of strumming, flatpicking, and some fingerstyle. Don't play too hard.

Thank you guys!!
Reply With Quote
  #105  
Old 02-10-2021, 05:03 AM
FPerezRoig FPerezRoig is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 56
Default

Had the time to make some measurements, calculations, and adjustments regarding bridge position and neck angle.

Here's what I have:

A bridge height of 0.375 inch (9.5mm).
A 16 inch radius fretboard with a height of 0.25 inch (6.3mm) measured at its centreline.

Scale length: 24.9 inch
Target action at 12th fret: 1st string -> 0.08 inch (2.03mm), 6th string -> 0.1 inch (2.54mm)

Fretwire height is 0.043 inch (1.09mm).
Saddle width is 0.093 inch (2.38mm).

Given the target action and scale length i calculated the following compensation. After reading and filling the form on this site (https://www.liutaiomottola.com/formu...mpensation.htm)

1st: 0.0743 inch (1.887mm)
2nd: 0.1393 inch
3rd: 0.0791 inch
4th: 0.1097 inch
5th: 0.1329 inch
6th: 0.1757 inch (4.46mm)

Once I calculated compensation, I positioned the bridge on the guitar top, and put some tape to mark the correct position. I positioned it so the centre of the saddle slot lies at 2x the distance from nut edge to the 12th fret + the calculated compensation for the first and sixth string)

Then put a straight edge on top of the fretboard, without frets installed, and set the neck angle so that the straight edge rests on the top of the bridge just touching it.

Once I install the fretwire and strings, I expect the string tension will pull somewhat the neck, so the added pull will compensate the height of the fretwire (0.043 inch) and a straight edge on top of the frets with strings installed should (I assume) rest again on the top of the bridge.

Is this a good starting point?
Is the target action at 12th fret reasonable? I play a combination of strumming, flatpicking, and some fingerstyle. Don't play too hard.

Thank you guys!!
Reply With Quote
Reply

  The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Build and Repair

Thread Tools





All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, The Acoustic Guitar Forum
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=