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  #1  
Old 03-23-2013, 11:38 PM
shark81 shark81 is offline
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Default back crack

will re-hydration alone fix a small crack? there is a very small separation in a rosewood back just to one side of the center strip. With a flash light you can see a slight separation. the braces all seam to be intact and holding well. The top and sides seam to be OK also. at first I thought it was a finish crack it is that small maybe a little larger than a hairs width so the question is what should be my course of action?
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:56 AM
tadol tadol is offline
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I'd suggest keeping the guitar properly humidified and keeping an eye on it. Cracks on the top are an issue because dirt can get into the wood or below the finish and that can make them nearly impossible to repair cleanly, but in the back repairs can be hidden much more easily, and if the structure is intact, then its worth giving it a little time to determine why its happening. Could be a natural grain issue, could be humidity, could be ??? - Pics a necessity -
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:13 PM
shark81 shark81 is offline
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Default back cracks

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Last edited by shark81; 03-25-2013 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:27 PM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shark81 View Post
will re-hydration alone fix a small crack? there is a very small separation in a rosewood back just to one side of the center strip. With a flash light you can see a slight separation. the braces all seam to be intact and holding well. The top and sides seam to be OK also. at first I thought it was a finish crack it is that small maybe a little larger than a hairs width so the question is what should be my course of action?
Re-hydration will not fix a crack. The opening may shut, but the crack will still exist. A crack, as you know, is a split in the wood (the wood grain separates from itself). A crack of the sort you describe does not sound critical, but I always recommend to my clients to fix cracks at earliest possible convenience. This is a good season to fix cracks because slightly thinned glue can be massaged and wicked into the crack forming a bond usually stronger than the original wood itself.

Left unattended, wood on either side of the crack can sometimes tend to warp, at which point regluing flush and flat becomes a more problematic process.
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2013, 03:38 PM
shark81 shark81 is offline
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Default back cracks

thanks for the response's,
I will try to get a little diluted "titebond" on the crack with a very fine brush and let it sink in as you suggested.would it be better from the inside or outside or both? I'll let it dry and then continue to rehydrate.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:28 PM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shark81 View Post
thanks for the response's,
I will try to get a little diluted "titebond" on the crack with a very fine brush and let it sink in as you suggested.would it be better from the inside or outside or both? I'll let it dry and then continue to rehydrate.
You don't need to use a brush at all. Just run a bead along the crack and massage with your fingers pushing it into the crack. Occasionally check the inside of the guitar because you don't want to put so much glue into the crack that it begins dripping through the other side of the crack. If there is movement with the crack, you can use this to your advantage to help the glue impregnate the crack.

Titebond II is nice for this operation, because any excess spill over can be left until dry. Then use a mildly dampened cotton ball to rub off the dried glue. Titebond II will not stick to the finish and rubs off easily. Wipe it off after an hour or two. And water it down only about 10 to 15%.

PS - Work from the outside of the guitar, since any spill-over on raw wood on the inside of the guitar is much more difficult to remove and clean up since it will soak and form a bond with the surface of the raw wood.
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:10 AM
shark81 shark81 is offline
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Default back crack

thanks HCG I will do that
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