Zero-Fret Guitar

[N+1]

Originally Posted by JonWint

Any guitar can be converted to zero-fret using the Zero Glide nut system.

http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and...lide_Nuts.html

Thanks for this suggestion. I've thought about it before, and maybe one day I'll try it out - though I've been using a capo to do this job for so long now that it's become second nature.

[guitar george]

Originally Posted by N+1

Thanks for this suggestion. I've thought about it before, and maybe one day I'll try it out - though I've been using a capo to do this job for so long now that it's become second nature.

How does a capo do the job of a zero fret? Do you put it on the first fret and then re-tune the guitar to standard tuning and play farther up the neck or?

[N+1]

Originally Posted by guitar george

How does a capo do the job of a zero fret? Do you put it on the first fret and then re-tune the guitar to standard tuning and play farther up the neck or?

Yes. The moment you put the capo on the first fret, all the open strings are fretted, and the nut has been excluded. Of course there are other factors too: the almost permanent use of a capo like this reduces the action, and also effectively reduces the scale length. That might matter to some folks - the long deep bass response of a standard scale length is significantly changed, but again, I prefer the tighter character of the sound myself.

I should emphasise that I'm not recommending this practice for anyone else: just explaining why I do it myself.

[Rosewood99]

Originally Posted by N+1

Yes. The moment you put the capo on the first fret, all the open strings are fretted, and the nut has been excluded. Of course there are other factors too: the almost permanent use of a capo like this reduces the action, and also effectively reduces the scale length. That might matter to some folks - the long deep bass response of a standard scale length is significantly changed, but again, I prefer the tighter character of the sound myself.

I should emphasise that I'm not recommending this practice for anyone else: just explaining why I do it myself.

I do the same on all my guitars.

[N+1]

Originally Posted by guitar george

How does a capo do the job of a zero fret? Do you put it on the first fret and then re-tune the guitar to standard tuning and play farther up the neck or?

Just an afterthought: most of the time I don't bother to retune. If I put the capo at fret 2, and play chord shapes for a key of G, I just hold the thought that actually I'm playing in A.

I can see this may seem awkward to others, but I've been happily doing it since about 1998 so I never give it a second thought, now.

[N+1]

Originally Posted by paulzoom

I do the same on all my guitars.

I wonder how many of us there are? I mean, setting aside the primary purpose of a capo as an easy key-changer, what proportion of players use one primarily as a substitute for a zero fret?

[nrand]

I had this Ibanez Hummingbird copy for a while and never found the zero fret to be an issue - it played fine.
I ended up selling it to a collector because it was in mint condition when I found it.

[Rosewood99]

Originally Posted by N+1

I wonder how many of us there are? I mean, setting aside the primary purpose of a capo as an easy key-changer, what proportion of players use one primarily as a substitute for a zero fret?

That's only half the reason. The other half is to get virtual short scale.

[N+1]

Originally Posted by paulzoom

That's only half the reason. The other half is to get virtual short scale.

Yes indeed. Not to mention lower action, without changing the set-up.

[rmsstrider]

Originally Posted by Jabberwocky

Try a Zero Glide Replacement Nut. It is an easily reversible modification. All you lose is the cost of the Zero Glide if you do not like it.

No affiliation.

I just looked these up and watched their videos. Looks interesting and cost is not much. They don't specify the material used that I could find, but maybe that no longer matters? Any negatives ?

[SiliconValleySJ]

I own one, which is my Langejans. No issues at all with zero fret.

[guitar george]

I've never heard of Langejans. Where are they made? Nice looking headstock.

[rogthefrog]

Originally Posted by guitar george

I've never heard of Langejans. Where are they made? Nice looking headstock.

Del Langejans made guitars in Michigan. He's retired now. The ones I've played have been excellent.

Re. the capo suggestion above: the sound you'll get won't be anything like a "normal" guitar without a capo, for several reasons.

First, the rubber pad on the capo doesn't sound like a nut at all (or a zero fret). A capo'ed guitar has an instantly recognizable sound. Second, the capo shortens the scale length, which arguably has audible effects as well. Third, if you tune down 1/2 step and capo on fret 1 (or 1 step and fret 2, etc) and don't change your string gauge to compensate, your strings have less tension, which is definitely audible.

[Rosewood99]

Originally Posted by rogthefrog

Third, if you tune down 1/2 step and capo on fret 1 (or 1 step and fret 2, etc) and don't change your string gauge to compensate, your strings have less tension, which is definitely audible.

Theoretically yes, but in practice I can't hear the difference.

[N+1]

Originally Posted by rogthefrog

Re. the capo suggestion above: the sound you'll get won't be anything like a "normal" guitar without a capo, for several reasons.

First, the rubber pad on the capo doesn't sound like a nut at all (or a zero fret). A capo'ed guitar has an instantly recognizable sound.

Let me rephrase my statement then, like this: the conflict between my liking for the sound of a zero fret, and my dislike of the sound of a nut, is pretty much resolved by the use of a capo.

I may have identified the problem incorrectly, for there are several aspects to it:
1. I don't much like the sound of a string terminated at one end by a nut.
2. I do like the sound of a zero fret much better.
3. I also like the sound of a fretted string, with a finger behind the fret, which is mimicked well enough (for me) by a capo behind the fret.

My point is that using the capo seems to solve my problems, whatever mix of reasons one might put together. That's all I'm really concerned about.

Second, the capo shortens the scale length, which arguably has audible effects as well. Third, if you tune down 1/2 step and capo on fret 1 (or 1 step and fret 2, etc) and don't change your string gauge to compensate, your strings have less tension, which is definitely audible.

The scale length issue was touched upon above, and I need no persuading that you're right about all you say. All I claim is that my vote goes to the string that is terminated by either a zero fret, a fingered fret, or a capoed fret, and NOT to the nut-terminated string.