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Old 10-05-2021, 02:18 PM
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warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Default Oops, I did an NMD again.

Well, wasn't really looking, more like browsing, and I found this new (probably customer return) Kentucky KM-500 at a pretty good price. And then it turned into a very good price, and then to a screaming deal that I couldn't resist.

Now, this is only an incremental improvement over my KM-250 (if it's an improvement at all). But I read that the 500 series and up are made in the same factory as their higher end models, so I thought I'd give it a go and keep whichever one I like better.

Have been fairly happy with the 250 for lo these three weeks that I've owned it. But the one nitpick I've had is that the G string doesn't have the crisp authoritative attack that the other strings do (I wonder if an upgraded saddle or better fitment could help with that). Indeed, this is often a complaint of mine on lower end guitars, basses, and now apparently mandolins... the flabby bass string.

Early reports have the tone of the G string on the 500 more in line with my expectations, snappier attack. Also a bit fuller overall tone, and less bright than the 250... not major differences. Though my mandolin ears are still in their infancy. They're wearing different strings, and I haven't changed the ones on the 500 yet (they have a bit of corrosion below the bridge), so I don't really have an apples to apples.

I think I like the back better on the 250, but the sides and neck go no contest to the 500.

One thing I did notice is that the bridge seems a lot more tilted on the 500. I don't see any deformation on the top. Is this normal?

Anyway, I won't say what I paid, but I will say that if I'm patient, I could probably sell the 250 for enough to cover the cost.

That's now two mandolins bought, and two sold in the last month. Gotta say, the setups on the bought ones have been better than on the sold ones.



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Last edited by warfrat73; 10-05-2021 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 10-05-2021, 03:36 PM
pjheff pjheff is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warfrat73 View Post
But the one nitpick I've had is that the G string doesn't have the crisp authoritative attack that the other strings do (I wonder if an upgraded saddle or better fitment could help with that). Indeed, this is often a complaint of mine on lower end guitars, basses, and now apparently mandolins... the flabby bass string.
Br1ck has consistently posted about the quest for a satisfying G course on mandolins and the price point often necessary to achieve it.

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Originally Posted by warfrat73 View Post
One thing I did notice is that the bridge seems a lot more tilted on the 500. I don't see any deformation on the top. Is this normal?
Bridges often lean toward the headstock after some string changes and occasionally need to be “burped” back into compliance.
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Old 10-05-2021, 04:17 PM
rdeane rdeane is offline
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My first mandolin was a Kentucky 505 (same mandolin, different color). I really liked it and it served me well. About a year and a half after acquiring the 505 I stepped up to a Collings MT2 with a wide nut and Italian Spruce top. I sold the 505 and think I couldn't have started with a better mandolin. You should be quite happy with the 500 for a while, at least until your skills dictate something a bit further up the food chain.
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Old 10-06-2021, 09:32 AM
MC5C MC5C is offline
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I would make sure the intonation is correct, so the top of the bridge is in the right location, and then look at why it's leaning. If it's just being pulled towards the headstock by the strings, move the top back and the bottom forward so it's more vertical and the intonation remains correct. If it leans towards the headstock naturally, in the correct location with no strings on it, I'd get some sandpaper and dress the bottom of the bridge base until it sits more upright. In an ideal world the vertical stack of bridge/topper bisects the angle of the string break.
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Old 10-06-2021, 10:23 AM
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The intonation was pretty close. I tweaked it a bit, had to move it back a touch, it's still leaning a bit, but not as much as it was.

I'll have a closer look at it tonight or tomorrow.
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Old 10-06-2021, 10:23 AM
neilca neilca is offline
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I am glad I could help support your MAS ; ) the km174 cleaned up nicely and with new strings and a setup, now sings. Love the sound of a round hole mando.

As for your 500 bridge you may try turning the bridge around. Most mandolin bridges are directional front to rear due to the curvature of the top. I mark mine on the bottom to keep them straight. If that doesn't fix it then you will need to sand the bridge to get it straight. To sand the bridge remove the strings and the bridge, tape sandpaper (rough side up) to the top of the mandolin where the bridge should go and sand the bridge to be straight up. Whatever you take off can be adjusted up at the bridge adjusters.
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Old 10-06-2021, 02:08 PM
Br1ck Br1ck is offline
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My view as stated before is don't move incrementally up the import line. The exception is the Kentucky master series, that is 900 and higher. This I have found to be the only middle ground concerning tone. Still. I'd save $1500 and buy a used A style from any number of respected makers. Heck, I saw a Collings MT recently a little scuffed up for $1800. Now THAT would float your boat. So would a Silverangel, or a Weber, or a Northridge. If you are going to be in the game for the long haul, you need one of these, but I cation they are gateway mandolins. I'm looking for something under $5k as I got the F style disease.
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Old 10-06-2021, 02:51 PM
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warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Br1ck View Post
My view as stated before is don't move incrementally up the import line. The exception is the Kentucky master series, that is 900 and higher. This I have found to be the only middle ground concerning tone. Still. I'd save $1500 and buy a used A style from any number of respected makers. Heck, I saw a Collings MT recently a little scuffed up for $1800. Now THAT would float your boat. So would a Silverangel, or a Weber, or a Northridge. If you are going to be in the game for the long haul, you need one of these, but I cation they are gateway mandolins. I'm looking for something under $5k as I got the F style disease.
I generally agree with the "skip the second mando/guitar and go straight to the third" principle. But this will end up effectively being a free "upgrade." If I chose to I could flip the 500 for a decent profit (though maybe not on AGF now that I've said that). And if I keep it, sell the 250, and then eventually sell the 500 to buy a professional model, I will have a fair bit more equity in the mandolin stream to help offset the step up.
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Old 10-06-2021, 09:07 PM
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warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Well, I figured one thing out. Whoever installed the bridge had the base on the wrong way round. Saddle was right, but base wrong... turned it around and it's much closer to perpendicular.
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Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A
(Call me Dan)
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Old 10-10-2021, 10:25 AM
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warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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After a few days of playing around with them both, swapping strings, readjusting bridges, I'd have to say that there's not a ton of air between them. I've been "A-B"ing quite a bit.

A string change on the 250, and turning the bridge the right way round on the 500 narrowed the gap in the G string response (the 250 got more snappy the 500 got less with the bridge properly installed).

The 250 has a drier woodier, more vintage tone on single note stuff. But the 500 has more depth and roundness, more of a bark in the attack, and a bit more volume. The 500 has a fuller, more authoritative tone on chords.

The setup as they are favors the 250.

I had about made up my mind to just keep the 250, but today I'm leaning the other way.

Oh well, either will work just fine. Not a bad situation to be in.
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"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder

Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A
(Call me Dan)
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