Vintage problem, no bridgeplate

[Braindead]

Fred, 'It's my guitar and I'll do what I want to it." would have more impact if you would sing it!

[printer2]

Originally Posted by Braindead

Fred, 'It's my guitar and I'll do what I want to it." would have more impact if you would sing it!

Oh it would have an impact, not sure if that would be a good thing.

[NeptuneBlue]

Originally Posted by srick

Good question. The platemate is held on with double stick tape, you could possibly cut a chunk of the tape out in that area, leaving space for the brace.

And you know the other possibility (remove a small chunk of brace to allow the Platemate to seat), but ignore that thought. Nope, I never said it. I know nothing...nothink!

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

I'm not sure whether I'd pop off that brace and notch it for the bridgeplate, or make two bridgeplates. There's a slight structural difference between the two methods, with notching the brace having a higher crossgrain stiffness. That may be good, maybe not. It would be a more difficult repair, but I don't do repairs like some of the pros on here.

Is notching the brace even a valid option here? The braces are so thin, but still in there tight and completely intact aside from the string hole, so I see no need to start messing with them if I don't have to. I was thinking (if I don't just cut the plate mate to fit the bracing) more along the lines of an improvised 2 part bridge plate of the sort you mentioned, on either side of the brace and the same thickness as it. This would also allow the plate mate to sit flush and supported across the entire soundboard, and also provide a (thin and improvised) version of a bridge plate. Although, in this method, I am not certain of my ability to properly measure the necessary dimensions - would probably figure something out, get it close, and then go by feel before gluing it in.

Originally Posted by phavriluk

My suggestion is to get the instrument to an in-person luthier and ask what's best to be done. A 'platemate' or something like one will offer none of the structural help that a wood bridge plate brings to the guitar top. My inclination, sight unseen, is to do what needs to be done to install a bridge plate, but that's my own thought process in evidence.

I did that, but the situation was not exactly optimal. In fact, the guy I took it to hardly noticed the lack of bridge plate and chewed up soundboard, and instead tried to get me to fix the crack by re-breaking it, just to get some cleats in it. To be fair, the crack makes the bridge complicated because the two sides are not flush, but the current repair, while sloppy, is solid, and there are simpler ways to deal with getting the bridge flush without any gaps.

So, I'm looking for other people in the area and have been talking with other players who have done amateur repairs. Not to discredit the idea of taking it to a luthier, but so far it's been near extortion, and the best practical in-person advice I've gotten has been from a classically trained friend turned amateur repairman, who's given me the most worthwhile discussion and options to consider.

Here's a picture of the crack I mentioned

Originally Posted by Truckjohn

Remember that almost all traditional "northern" European guitars used pin bridges with gut strings. This includes our hero Christian F. Martin's guitars... Many of these were made as strummers with much narrower fretboards than we are used to seeing on proper "Classical" guitars today...

So if it's braced like a classical - it's designed for Nylon strings - not steel strings. The lack of a bridge plate is also a very strong indication of the same. Ignore the pin bridge. String it with nylon - just tie big knots on the string ends and slip on some string balls off an old steel string set.

I've already addressed that, though I forgot to mention it in my OP - I don't trust steel strings on it, even if they are light, so will be sticking with Silk and Steel or Ropecore strings, which are comparable in tension to Nylon. Still want to protect what's left in the bridge area, not put too much tension on it or try my luck, etc.

In fact, I would guess that the crack in it is from the very thing you mention - someone stringing it with steel strings. I know for a fact that its prior owner had steels on it, and know they were advertised by Hagstrom, for whatever reason, as being steel string folk guitars. Oh, you crazy 1960's

[printer2]

With the hole through the brace it is not doing much anyway. The bridge plate in place of it will do more structurally than what you have. Just cut the plate a little over size and place it in and check, sand a little, check, sand a little...

[JonWint]

Originally Posted by NeptuneBlue

I've already addressed that, though I forgot to mention it in my OP - I don't trust steel strings on it, even if they are light, so will be sticking with Silk and Steel or Ropecore strings, which are comparable in tension to Nylon. Still want to protect what's left in the bridge area, not put too much tension on it or try my luck, etc.

To what brand of low tension Silk & Steel strings are you referring? Martin and D'Addario S&S are 122 lbs and 127 lbs, resp. Nylons are usually 90 lbs or less.

[mirwa]

Most luthiers who offer their services for money, would do a repair with the thought process of it being functional and long lasting (well I would hope so),as such, costs are involved.

Amateurs look at how they get just get it working, they typically have no understanding or wood/grain/runout/bridge rotation etc, as such no real thought is given to the long term prospects of the instrument.

The point, if your not doing it yourself then you get what you pay for.

Steve