The Acoustic Guitar Forum

Go Back   The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Build and Repair

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 12-29-2014, 12:31 PM
viento viento is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: northern Germany (Dutch border) + south of Spain
Posts: 575
Default I need some help with the fingerboard...

My guitar is almost finished,
only one thing that doesnŽt behave:

the tongue of the ebony fingerboard thatŽs lying on the spruce top
keeps coming up a tad, only a hue.
I tried a drop of Titebond at its end and pressed it down overnight.
Next day after taking off the clamp it lifted up with a click.
Then I sanded off the residue of the glue and used hot hide glue : same result.
Maybe I should add glue not only at its tip but under the whole region of the tongue?
Normally both mentioned glues should bind ebony and spruce?
I actually wanted to avoid such amount of glue to be able
to take the neck off easier -if necessary - in the future.

Taylor fixes the fb on top with a screw...maybe IŽll have to think about such..?

Any help appreciated
__________________
Thanks!




Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-29-2014, 12:51 PM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,091
Default

Quote:
Maybe I should add glue not only at its tip but under the whole region of the tongue?
There is no reason not to use plenty of glue on the whole fingerboard tongue. It is easily removable with a heatlamp.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-29-2014, 01:38 PM
Rodger Knox Rodger Knox is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Baltimore, Md.
Posts: 2,431
Default

If the fingerboard is not lying flat on the top, you should probably make a wedge that fits underneath the fingerboard extension.
If the max height is less than 1/16", a couple of drops of Titebond or HHG should hold the fingerboard down. How much you flex the fingerboard also affects the fallaway.
edit: I agree with John about using plenty of glue, but if a little will not hold it, you probably have too big a gap.
__________________
Rodger Knox, PE
1917 Martin 0-28
1956 Gibson J-50
et al
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-29-2014, 08:37 PM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dartmouth, NS
Posts: 3,127
Default

John and Brian have got you just about covered with their advice. I will ask, however, if you have any amount of finish protruding into the fingerboard extension gluing area.

"Lifted up with a click " is a suggestion that there might be glue to finish contact. Many glues, likely most, don't make strong bonds with a lot of finishes.
__________________
----

Ned Milburn
NSDCC Master Artisan
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-29-2014, 09:14 PM
redir redir is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mountains of Virginia
Posts: 7,679
Default

I typically use glue on the perimeter of theach fb extension and leave the middle free but still I've stressed joints with clamps and TB with good results within reason. How much of a gap is there at the end of the FBT and the top?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-30-2014, 12:40 AM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,617
Default

I'm with those who secure the entire fretboard area to the top. I also agree that releasing that joint is a relatively simple task. I wouldn't starve any other joint on a guitar, even though it is easier to clean up than a joint with glue squeeze out. I actually worry when I do not have anyssqueeze out, especially with soft woods that seem to suck glue up!

I should add that if the fretboard is straight before you glue down the extension then it's possible the neck angle needs slight adjustment.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-30-2014, 04:54 AM
viento viento is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: northern Germany (Dutch border) + south of Spain
Posts: 575
Default

Thank you all for your helpful advice!
I will use some more glue this time and IŽll take Titebond which gives me more time joining neck and body.
Hot hide glue hurries me too much, because I have to tighten the two screws of the mortise and tenon joint before it starts curing.
Ned, youŽre right, there could have been some traces of the finish in the gluing area preventing good joining.
IŽll sand some more. Leaving the middle free of glue is worth thinking about and would make less work if I want to loosen the joint at some time.
In addition to your proposals I will alter the angle between the neck foot and the body a tad by gluing tiny wedges on the lower part.
This will turn the end of the fb slightly downward and close the tiny gap below the "tongue" thus making gluing trouble-free.
Btw,Louie, the fretboard is straight up to the extension before gluing.

Have a healthy New Year!
__________________
Thanks!




Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-05-2015, 02:56 PM
GreenWoodworker GreenWoodworker is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 71
Default

Dont try a screw! Taylors are a small bolt with a nut in a piece of the neck that comes under the fretboard.
Reply With Quote
Reply

  The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Build and Repair






All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, The Acoustic Guitar Forum
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=