Waverly Tuner Advice Needed

[cheer tunes]

Hi, The waverley tuners on my Collings D1 have gotten tight over the years and I would like to know what I can do to get the smoother action back.

Thanks!

[simpl man]

Check the tension on the screws that hold the gear on the back, and lubricate the bushings.

[cheer tunes]

thanks, what is best practice for lubricating bushings?

[ripdotcom]

https://www.amazon.com/KeyTone-Line-.../dp/B00WIGHJAS


Qtip

[simpl man]

A drop of 3 in 1 oil between the bushings & posts. Also between the gear & the worm on the back. There are other suitable lubes, but you can get 3 in 1 just about anywhere.

Do it with the strings off so you can turn the posts a few times & wipe off any excess.

Don't get the oil between the bushings & wood of the headstock either. It only takes a tiny bit, & you don't want the oil to get on any unfinished wood.

The screws that hold the gear can be adjusted for proper tension, as well.

There's also a way to manipulate how the tuners mount to the headstock that negates the pull of the strings. This more or less centers the posts in the bushings, under tension. You just have to loosen the mounting screws, push the posts towards the top of the headstock, & re-tighten the screws while holding the posts. It's a little tricky, but works.

[stephenT]

You may want to check w Stew Mac, the distributor for Waverly. I seem to recall they suggest against using a lubricant. 800-848-2273, they are very helpful folks.

[simpl man]

The tuners are designed & meant to function without the need of additional lubrication.

That doesn't mean they always work as advertised, though.

[stephenT]

Or maybe they do. In either case a check w the folks who distribute would be prudent. Stew Mac is very quick to replace Waverlys that aren’t working properly. Would they still be willing after a user incorrectly lubed them?

Originally Posted by simpl man

The tuners are designed & meant to function without the need of additional lubrication.

That doesn't mean they always work as advertised, though.

[Zissou Intern]

Originally Posted by cheer tunes

Hi, The waverley tuners on my Collings D1 have gotten tight over the years and I would like to know what I can do to get the smoother action back.

Sadly, your D1 is now worthless. I am happy to dispose of it for you. Please send me a PM for shipping options.

[cheer tunes]

Thank you all for the advice, I have a call in to stew mac. Thanks for the smile Ziss

[zhunter]

I don't think the "tension" screws on the back have any affect on the effort it takes to turn the tuner. Waverlies *are* different. And yes they say no lube.

hunter

[cheer tunes]

Waiting to hear back from stew mac, left a message with their specialist.

[darylcrisp]

The threaded collar does determine the tension on the worm gear, but it is installed with Loctite. Without Loctite, the collar can unscrew during normal use, and the tuner will fall apart. The inner plastic washer can get lost if this occurs, and Stew Mac will not supply parts. That means you are out of luck until Stew Mac sends you another tuner.
The only way to adjust the tension is to unscrew the collar completely (don't lose the plastic washer!!), clean the threads with acetone, and reassemble with fresh Loctite.
When Waverly's first came out, Stew Mac would sell you the tool to turn the collar for a small fee. But they don't do that any more. They want you to send them the defective tuner for replacement under warranty.
I made my own adjustment tool. This is a picture of Waverlys on a mandolin, yours will be laid out differently being on a guitar, but without seeing an actual picture I can only assume the build structure is similar.
PM me if you want to know more, I can send you a link where this is discussed in detail by some world class mandolin luthiers.
Stewmac is a top shelf company and will stand behind their sales.

A couple more thoughts if you want to delve further on your own:
remove the machines from the headstock and feel the quality of resistance on the worm shafts. This tension is set at the factory and is usually 'just snug', not loose and not tight. If they all work evenly then the problem may be in the placement of the bushings in the headstock.

if you do disassemble the tuners use Loctite blue thread locker, DO NOT USE LOCTITE RED, as it is a very strong bond, which is why they label it PERMANENT.

[Silly Moustache]

Waverleys are good but they ain#t perfect. I had one fallapart in the middle of a perfomance due to the collet coming loose.

Collings told me to contact Stewmac wgho sent me replacements and requested that I send the old ones back (I am in the UK - there was no charge).

I know about the no lube bizniss, but the Collings users swear by stuff called "tri-lube".

WARNING: Do not let any lube get into the wood of your headstock. (Bitter experience)

[JayBee1404]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

I know about the no lube bizniss, but the Collings users swear by stuff called "tri-lube".

Silly, do you mean 'Tri-Flow'? I had very bad experiences with Tri-Flow on three sets of Waverlys - it became virtually impossible to fine-tune because the Tri-Flow created 'sticktion' between the worm and gear. Apparently there are two types of Tri-Flow, the 'standard' one and a 'dry' version, and it's the 'dry' Tri-Flow that should be used on Waverlys. When I read all the rave reviews about Tri-Flow which persuaded me to use it, nobody mentioned that there are different versions, and the Law of Cussedness dictated, of course, that I chose the wrong one!

If I get a Waverley going 'tight' now, I use a tiny spot of Vaseline on a tooth-pick, and place it very carefully where the worm meets the gear, then crank the tuner for half-a-minute or so (with the string removed!) to make sure it's distributed properly.

Tri-Flow is extremely difficult to remove once it's applied (as I found to my cost), but Vaseline is easily cleaned off with naphtha. Also, Vaseline stays where it's placed and, unlike Tri-Flow, doesn't run into places it's not supposed to be.

The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.