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  #16  
Old 10-13-2020, 07:42 PM
ssynhorst ssynhorst is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 220
Default rong

As walkinbass indicated the G string is the most fragile so various things can go wrong. So, from juststrings.com I bought a pack of a dozen, for cheap, and I can change it whenever anything goes wrong. Since I bought them, nothing has gone wrong. I suspect magic is involved, but I am ready if it fails. - Stevo
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  #17  
Old 10-13-2020, 10:42 PM
jspe jspe is offline
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Default something to try...

In my years with acoustic guitars I've seen a lot of g string issues. As mentioned previously, the g has the smallest core of all the strings.
I have tried something successfully that I think helps the g particularly, but also all of the strings to some degree.
It involves going back asswards when you install the new string...
Instead of plugging the ball in to the bridge hole first and then winding it with the machine head, try winding the new string around the machine head barrel first...
Measure the length of the string after inserting it in the machine head post so that laying it fairly straight and flat down the fretboard you have about 2 inches past the bridge hole.
Pinch the string on to the machine head post, and pinch-wind it tightly by hand 2-3 times around the post underneath.
As you run your fingers down the string toward the bridge, you will now feel the orbital twists coming out of the new string. The ball end will actually rotate as/ the number of twists on the machine head post! You have literally taken 2-3 revolutions of orbital twist out of the string.
Now drop the ball in the bridge hole and follow with the pin. You may need to optimally practice how much to compensate at this point, because you need about 1/2 inch on the ball end past the bridge hole to then properly pin the ball down in the hole and pin it in.
Tuning now should take only about 1-2 orbits of the machine head, which will most notably reduce the orbital twisting that wipes out so much string life.
.
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