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#16
11-09-2013, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
There are "two schools" of thought on achieving "rubbed" high gloss finishes. One sands as high as possible with sheet abrasives, then switches to polishing compounds, the other does a minimum of sanding, stopping at 600 or 800 or 1200, then switches to two or more - usually more - polishing compounds. Comparable results can be achieved by either. In my experience, less effort is required in using polishing compounds, after the finish is dead-flat. Particularly if one uses a buffing wheel, be it stand-alone or chucked in a drill or drill press, or automatic polisher. 
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#17
11-09-2013, 09:56 AM
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Looks like you did a fine job, Joe! I don't think there is too much I can add at this point other than this information for your future repairs that doesn't really apply to your present job.
When cracks are going to leave a gap, the filler material - titebond or similar, CA, home-made wood-fill (ie: your choice of glue with wood dust) - will determine the final visibility of the gap. For example, this year I have had to repair a few jet black ebony fingerboards. I use titebond 3 mixed with fine ebony dust for this. Titebond 3 is waterproof, so will wear well on a fingerboard. This produces a sometimes invisible ebony gap fill, and when it is visible, it is only barely so. Side cracks with a gap can be repaired with mahogany, rosewood, or other applicable dust to yield a near invisible repair. Since side cracks can be filled then covered with finish if desired, non-waterproof wood glues can be safely used. Top cracks can be tougher to repair invisibly if there is a gap to fill.
__________________
---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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| crack, side crack |
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