#1
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Can you help me out?
This is my 1999 Lowden O25c, cedar top. I got it used a few years ago. Most of the damage (see pic) was already there when I go it, but I've just noticed I'm adding to it. It's getting worse. I'm trying to analyze my technique to see when my acrylic nails hit the soundboard, but beyond that, any way to protect it and keep it from getting worse?
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#2
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The damage on your guitar is worse than what I inflicted on my 000-42, but what my guitar repairman did on that instrument is paint some Superglue on the “excavated” areas - he used a more liquid form of the Superglue, one that was more viscous than the standard stuff.
Doing that won’t replace the wood that’s been removed from the edge of the soundhole, obviously, but it’ll prevent further damage. My repairman did that repair on my guitar more than twenty years ago now, but it’s still holding up just fine. Hope this helps. Wade Hampton Miller |
#3
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Oh the heartbreak of a cedar top!
My inclination would be to let it go, hoping that the damage will stay on the inside of the rosette. One sees a lot of guitars with similar damage, and you'll spend a lot more repairing it than you'll ever regain in improved resale value. I could be wrong, of course, and a superglue fix such as Wade suggests would go a long way toward containing the damage.
__________________
1 dreadnought, 1 auditorium, 1 concert, and 2 travel guitars. |
#4
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#5
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#6
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Actually that would not be too difficult of a repair, and would be fairy inconspicuous if the right piece of cedar is used and a little touch up is done on the edge of the soundhole. After it is repaired you should add a larger clear pickguard or tortoise or whatever suits your fancy. With a larger opaque pickguard that covers the damaged area the repair cosmetics would be less critical (you could even use bondo) but being a nicer guitar it deserves a decent repair.
I would use a pickguard that goes right up to the edge of the soundhole. It might not be aesthetically perfect, but it would certainly look better than a ragged edged soundhole. |
#7
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A thought
My opinion is that sealing with something to limit the damage and installing a clear pickguard that extended to the soundhole would be the least invasive response to the problem, no more splinters and a stable top.
Failing that, maybe getting the rosette extended/replaced all the way to the soundhole would eliminate the damage. |
#8
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When I purchased my 025C many years ago I cut aclear guard for it that extended almost to the soundhole edge just to prevent this type of damage. In this case it's a matter of doing the repair and then adding a clear guard to prevent future damage.
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#9
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I agree with Wade, A little superglue should do the trick.
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Bourgeois, Collings, R Taylor, Santa Cruz |
#10
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Wade, for clarification (since "viscous" to me means "thicker" when it comes to liquids), should he use a more liquid form or the gel?
__________________
2022 Yamaha Red Label FGX3 2022 Guild Westerly Collection OM-120 2016 Taylor 416ce-R 2010 Squier Vintage Modified Jazzmaster 1974 Rickenbacker 4001 Bass |
#11
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DON'T use thin CA glue on that. The first thing to do would be to seal it with shellac and try and match the color. Then it would be filled with Glue-Boost or any quality medium CA, leveled out and buffed. If you put thin CA on that without it being sealed it will run down the grain lines possibly even under the finish and leave a terrible stain.
IMHO this is not a DIY job unless you don't really care what it looks like. |
#12
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#13
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You could always work on your picking technique j/k |
#14
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I wouldn't use tape. It could end up pulling up more wood fibers when you remove it and it will sometimes leave reside behind if it on too long.
I'd cut a static cling pickguard to fit. It won't cling to the raw wood, but it should cling to everything around it. It might turn out to be your permanent solution as well. https://www.stringsbymail.com/guitar...rotection-361/ |
#15
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