Gluing the fretboard to the neck

[MC5C]

Just to chime in... I slot the fretboard while it's still square, I guide the saw with a machinist's square, measure with a 12" dial caliper. I trim the fretboard to size, add purfling if any, inlay, dots, cut the slots through the purfling after doing the intial radius. I glue it with AR glue and 1/16" pins to the neck blank, which is still square and uncarved, then I bind it with my binding - this seems to get me a close fit between binding and the neck wood on the sides. I saw off the excess from the neck, and start to carve down to the binding on the sides, which define the neck width. I finish-radius and sand the fretboard straight and install frets just about last, when I am finessing the final neck shape. It seems funny to write it out, often the fretboard and headstock take a lot longer than the neck does.

[Neil K Walk]

Originally Posted by redir

To be clear, the strip of tape is removed so it's not there for truss rod rattle. It is only used so that while you are applying the glue to both surfaces, the FB and the neck surface, you do not get glue in the truss rod channel.

Some add a strip of wood over the top. I'm not sure what the logic is there since the FB itself is essentially a 'strip' of wood too. It may have to do with the depth of action of the truss rod and the neutral axis of the neck.

But again carefully re-read what I wrote... The tape is NOT left behind.

Oh, I understand. I know that the gluing surface has to be dead flat. I'll forego the wood strip then; it's less than 1/16" thick after being planed down.

What to use for a positioning pin though? The first time around I just hacksawed the tip of a trim nail and drilled a hole in the underside of the fretboard. This time I'm putting the pins in the neck.

[Alan Carruth]

I use a couple of pieces of 1/16" brass rod, from the local hardware store or a hobby dealer, for locators. Clamp the board to the neck, and drill the holes in the fret slots. Make sure the pins don't stick up too far into the slots or you'll have trouble fretting. The crown of the fret covers whatever part of the hole sticks out past the slot.

These pins are small, and won't keep the fretboard from skating if you use
Titebond and tighten up the clamps too much too quickly. Get all of the clamps on just snug, and then go around tightening them a little at a time so that you don't develop enough shear to bend the pins or cause them to crush the wood of the neck.

As redir said at the top, the key to using a water based glue for his is to allow plenty of time for the water to dry out, and use a rigid caul.

Epoxy usually softens up at 150*-180*F, and you can get an epoxied fretboard off with heat. It's no fun. The heat can damage some finishes, such as shellac. DAMHIKT

Titebond softens with heat too, but you can also get it loose with acetic acid. Plain water usually causes the wood to go to mush about the time the glue lets go. Regular vinegar works eventually. There is a stronger horticultural vinegar that might work faster. Vinegar and iron makes a permanent black stain, but some stainless steels are OK.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Alan Carruth

I use a couple of pieces of 1/16" brass rod, from the local hardware store or a hobby dealer, for locators. Clamp the board to the neck, and drill the holes in the fret slots. Make sure the pins don't stick up too far into the slots or you'll have trouble fretting. The crown of the fret covers whatever part of the hole sticks out past the slot.

These pins are small, and won't keep the fretboard from skating if you use
Titebond and tighten up the clamps too much too quickly. Get all of the clamps on just snug, and then go around tightening them a little at a time so that you don't develop enough shear to bend the pins or cause them to crush the wood of the neck.

As redir said at the top, the key to using a water based glue for his is to allow plenty of time for the water to dry out, and use a rigid caul.

Epoxy usually softens up at 150*-180*F, and you can get an epoxied fretboard off with heat. It's no fun. The heat can damage some finishes, such as shellac. DAMHIKT

Titebond softens with heat too, but you can also get it loose with acetic acid. Plain water usually causes the wood to go to mush about the time the glue lets go. Regular vinegar works eventually. There is a stronger horticultural vinegar that might work faster. Vinegar and iron makes a permanent black stain, but some stainless steels are OK.

Good point, Alan.

I learned early on that locating pins sound like a great idea but don't work to prevent slippage all that well. Once I switched to using the outrigger blocks I never wanted to use anything else again.

[dnf777]

Ive had good luck (ie fool-proof) with the stewmac recommended technique of wrapping with a latex band. First wrap is snug, and automatically centers the work perfectly, then the remaining tight wraps accumulate more clamping force than I could generate any other way. I apply a thin layer of vaseline to the truss, then it doesnt matter if glue squeezes onto it. It stays free.

[John Arnold]

I learned early on that locating pins sound like a great idea but don't work to prevent slippage all that well.

I have used pins (actually 1/2" brads) for over 40 years, with a remarkable success rate. The key is to drill a hole sized for a snug fit. A set of #1 - #60 number drills are essential in my shop. I always wax or soap the brads, and pull them out after the glue sets. I use them on fingerboards, bridges, peghead veneers, and when gluing tops and backs.
Martin uses 3/16" roll pins on their fingerboards and leaves them in place. I see no reason to leave them, when it is totally unnecessary.