Yamaha FG-75 Red Label (made in Japan) Neck Reset + Set-up

[redir]

Originally Posted by mirwa

I cannot help you as I am in Australia, I do plenty of them however.

For an idea in price, neck reset/refret/new nut/new saddle/new strings you are looking at around the 850 mark.

I also find yamaha cut the end of the fretboards too short, the nut sits too close to the first fret and affects intonation, if yours is the same, I would recommend machining the whole fretboard away and making a new fretboard as well.

Steve

I just got a guitar in today and thought about your post. It's a Borreguero Spanish guitar probably made in the 40's and the neck angle needs to be reset. Normally I would refret it and plane in a taper to get a good angle but that has been done before. So I could remove the fretboard and add a tapered shim but the frets are so poorly cut on this guitar it's not worth it. By eye you can actually see that the frets are angled... and it's not a fan fret

Anyway so it needs a new fretboard and I thought maybe machining it off might jsut be easier then heating it off but I have never done it before.

[John Arnold]

Some guitars to do a neck reset on, need the truss rod to be extracted before the neck can be lifted out of its socket.

I don't recall ever encountering that situation, but........
I see no reason not to remove the wood on top of the truss rod, rather than remove the whole rod from the neck.

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by redir

Anyway so it needs a new fretboard and I thought maybe machining it off might jsut be easier then heating it off but I have never done it before.

Can email you a step by step tute on how I do it, I use the original fretboard as the shim by simply machining it away and make a new fretboard up to go on top

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I don't recall ever encountering that situation, but........
I see no reason not to remove the wood on top of the truss rod, rather than remove the whole rod from the neck.

That would involve after removing the fretboard cutting some of the top away permanently rather than just lifting the truss rod out from underneath the top.

Steve

[John Arnold]

I have no problem with that, and neither will the guitar. Many guitars (including Martin) are designed that way.

I am not a fan of wedging under the entire fingerboard. It makes the neck progressively thicker toward the body. The fingerboard tongue is also very thick, especially if the neck angle is such that a reset is recommended. This is a technique that has been used on classical guitars with Spanish foot architecture.....where the neck is not removable unless it is sawed off.