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  #1  
Old 06-02-2014, 07:21 PM
numb fingertips numb fingertips is offline
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Default Learning bridge repair. Maybe I bit off more than I can chew.

Hello. I'm new to guitars (how new? I have only learned four chords), I'm enjoying learning, but I decided I also wanted to learn basic maintenance and repair. To that end, I purchased a Ibanez IJV100S-BK-38-01 with lifting bridge for $10 to learn. Looked up the process on frets.com. Today I removed the strings and took the bridge off. The previous owner tried to repair it with wood glue but it had lifted halfway up. When I removed the bridge, I noticed there was no bridge plate.
Do some guitars not have a bridge plate?
I'm wondering if I have to make a bridge plate from scratch? Anyone know where I can buy a bridge plate wood to make a bridge plate? Any advice on the removal of the wood glue on the bridge and the guitar? On frets.com, hide glue was used, any other options? Any good place to purchase hide glue? Is the hole for the bridge plate made before or after it is attached to the guitar? What size drill bit would be appropriate? Even if it was almost free, I would not want to ruin a perfectly useable guitar. Feels wrong. Going to do it slowly, but want it done as right as possible with the equipment I have.
Thanks for helping a noob.
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:52 PM
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bnjp bnjp is offline
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Let's see...You've done the hardest part in the getting the bridge off so there's no reason to turn back now. I've never seen a decent guitar without a bridge plate, but I could be wrong. I'd add one even if it wasn't made with one.

- I'm wondering if I have to make a bridge plate from scratch? Yes

- Anyone know where I can buy a bridge plate wood to make a bridge plate? Easiest place is Stewmac. They have maple bridge plate stock that is pretty decent.

- Any advice on the removal of the wood glue on the bridge and the guitar? You'll have to scrape and/or sand it off careful not to damage the finish. Some use a router, but I wouldn't do that if you're not experienced.

- On frets.com, hide glue was used, any other options? You don't want to use hide glue on that guitar. I'm guessing the frets.com guitar you saw was a vintage something-or-other that was built with hide glue originally. Your best bet is to clean it up and use titebond again.

- Any good place to purchase hide glue? see above...

- Is the hole for the bridge plate made before or after it is attached to the guitar? What size drill bit would be appropriate? Attach the bridge plate first. I usually use a 3/16" bit with a block clamped underneath to minimize the chipping to the underside of the bridge plate.
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:59 PM
numb fingertips numb fingertips is offline
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Thank you so very much for all the info. Now I don't feel so much like I'll ruin the guitar.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:01 PM
numb fingertips numb fingertips is offline
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Since there is no old bridge plate to act as template, I was thinking of filling the space with clay then carefully removing it so it retains its shape.
Good idea? Bad idea? Other options?
Thanks ahead of time for help.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:38 PM
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I hope this doesn't come across wrong, but do you know that the bridge plate is inside the guitar, on the underside of the top, not under the bridge?

You also mentioned the "hole for the bridge plate". I'm just having a hard time following. Maybe you could post some photos.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:50 PM
numb fingertips numb fingertips is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Yates View Post
I hope this doesn't come across wrong, but do you know that the bridge plate is inside the guitar, on the underside of the top, not under the bridge?

You also mentioned the "hole for the bridge plate". I'm just having a hard time following. Maybe you could post some photos.
Sorry about confusion. What runs through my mind sometimes doesn't come out as clear in text. I do know that the bridge plate is inside the guitar. In the frets.com tutorial, they removed the old bridge plate and put it together to use as a template for the new bridge plate. The guitar I bought didn't have a broken bridge plate to use as template to cut the new bridge plate. Unless they come in a standard size (I don't know if they do or don't), I figured I would fill the space with clay or my kids playdoe to find the shape so the new bridge plate will fits flush against the bracing. Let me state now that I have zero knowledge about guitar repair. I did my first string change last week. Was wondering if this is ok.
Now that I'm stating this, may I ask should the bridge plate be flush against the bracing? Does it matter? Should it not be flush for a different reason?

Also, the holes I meant were for the bridge pins. Once again sorry for being unclear.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numb fingertips View Post
I figured I would fill the space with clay or my kids playdoe to find the shape so the new bridge plate will fits flush against the bracing.
Seems like a solid plan
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:11 AM
Guest 1928
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I wouldn't want to contaminate my glue surface with clay. Better to use a piece of stiff cardboard to make a template by trial and error fitting.

The bridge plate should be directly under the bridge, touching the X-brace on either end, and extending no more than about 1/8" front and back if you want a little wiggle room.

One more question, does the guitar have a laminated top? I just can't imagine a solid top instrument leaving the factory without some sort of bridge plate.
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:17 AM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Yates View Post
I wouldn't want to contaminate my glue surface with clay. Better to use a piece of stiff cardboard to make a template by trial and error fitting.

The bridge plate should be directly under the bridge, touching the X-brace on either end, and extending no more than about 1/8" front and back if you want a little wiggle room.

One more question, does the guitar have a laminated top? I just can't imagine a solid top instrument leaving the factory without some sort of bridge plate.
+1
Agreed about the clay.

I fit bridge plates by aligning one angle first, then fitting the 2nd angle - bit by bit. You can get a perfect fit just by working "blind" by feel and wiggle.
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  #10  
Old 06-03-2014, 06:48 AM
stanron stanron is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numb fingertips View Post
I figured I would fill the space with clay or my kids playdoe to find the shape so the new bridge plate will fits flush against the bracing.
This will work OK if you put the playdoe in a plastic bag or wrap it carefully in cling film. The point about not contaminating the gluing surface is valid.
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:57 AM
Ben-Had Ben-Had is offline
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You can use small magnets placed inside and outside of the guitar along the edges of the bracing (x braced?). Then connect the lines along the edges of the magnets to get the brace line and you'll have a near perfect fit.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:45 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-Had View Post
You can use small magnets placed inside and outside of the guitar along the edges of the bracing (x braced?). Then connect the lines along the edges of the magnets to get the brace line and you'll have a near perfect fit.
Bingo. This is what I do, no guess work:

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Old 06-03-2014, 09:17 AM
redir redir is offline
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I can't even think of a guitar that I've ever seen that has no bridge plate even the super cheap ones. To be clear is this a pinned bridge? Or is it a string block (string through) design?
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:52 AM
arie arie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redir View Post
I can't even think of a guitar that I've ever seen that has no bridge plate even the super cheap ones. To be clear is this a pinned bridge? Or is it a string block (string through) design?
it's an ibanez jam pack
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  #15  
Old 06-03-2014, 11:53 AM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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I make my bridgeplate patterns from poster board (cardboard). I determine the X-brace angle with a small bevel, placed in the vee at the soundhole. This can also be done by trial and error, cutting the cardboard until it fits. The angle at the soundhole should be the same as below the X-crossing...assuming the braces are straight. Once I get the angle correct, I cut out the cardboard in a triangular shape. I then place this under the bridge, holding it tightly against the braces. To check the fit against the braces, I stick the cardboard in place with double-stick tape, then look at it with a mirror and a light. To finish the pattern, I place a pencil in the outer bridgepin holes, marking their location on the pattern. Measuring from those holes will give me location of the upper and lower edges of the plate, based on the bridge design. I like for the bridgeplate to be the same width as the bridge, but 1/8" oversize above and below the bridge will work fine.
I like to glue the bridgeplate in first, before gluing the bridge. That way, I can clamp a flat board on the outside of the top to flatten the top while gluing in the bridgeplate.
Hard maple is very popular for bridgeplates. You need it to be about 1/8" thick, or a little less.
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