Question for San Fran Bay Area Luthier

[rmgjsps]

I have a 2003 Lakewood M1. Bought used a couple of years ago. Nice instrument but has a problem(s).

Pretty sure it is due for a neck reset and the truss rod is a no-op -- broken, detached, whatever.

The saddle has been lowered as much as it can be, and the bridge slotted to give the strings the correct break angle.

Despite the issues, the guitar still plays well and is cosmetically very good except for the shiny spot on the matte finish where I anchor my picking hand.

I would like to have a rough idea of the cost of the obvious repairs, neck reset and truss rod.

Just need a range, and it can be a pretty wide range, so I can think about what I want to do. Obviously, sitting at home has given me way too much time to think about such things.

Since this is the Bay Area, the obvious answer to "How much?" is "Twice as much as anywhere else in the US. But, hey, inquiring minds want to know;-)

[tadol]

If you are in SF, try asking SF guitar works - they can give you a good estimate. There may be other individuals that could help, and may be a bit cheaper, but since its a bolt-on neck, it shouldn’t be too bad -

[rmgjsps]

Originally Posted by tadol

If you are in SF, try asking SF guitar works - they can give you a good estimate. There may be other individuals that could help, and may be a bit cheaper, but since its a bolt-on neck, it shouldn’t be too bad -

Tadol,

Thanks for the suggestion. SFGW ia on my list for when we can actually go into shops again. Since this is an older model, I have asked Lakewood explicitly for the neck attackment info.

Typically, the Lakewood neck attachment is a combination of bolt on and glued where the fretboard is glued to the soundboard and two bolts attach the neck. But, I don't know if this holds for older Lakewoods.

Thanks again for your reply.

[cliff_the_stiff]

Originally Posted by rmgjsps

I have a 2003 Lakewood M1. Bought used a couple of years ago. Nice instrument but has a problem(s).

Pretty sure it is due for a neck reset and the truss rod is a no-op -- broken, detached, whatever.

The saddle has been lowered as much as it can be, and the bridge slotted to give the strings the correct break angle.

Despite the issues, the guitar still plays well and is cosmetically very good except for the shiny spot on the matte finish where I anchor my picking hand.

I would like to have a rough idea of the cost of the obvious repairs, neck reset and truss rod.

Just need a range, and it can be a pretty wide range, so I can think about what I want to do. Obviously, sitting at home has given me way too much time to think about such things.

Since this is the Bay Area, the obvious answer to "How much?" is "Twice as much as anywhere else in the US. But, hey, inquiring minds want to know;-)

I have been going to SFGW for many years. They have a PLEK too.
Schoenberg in Sausalito, or Sylvan in Santa Cruz are also world class shops I think.

[tadol]

Originally Posted by rmgjsps

Tadol,

Thanks for the suggestion. SFGW ia on my list for when we can actually go into shops again. Since this is an older model, I have asked Lakewood explicitly for the neck attackment info.

Typically, the Lakewood neck attachment is a combination of bolt on and glued where the fretboard is glued to the soundboard and two bolts attach the neck. But, I don't know if this holds for older Lakewoods.

Thanks again for your reply.

You can stick a mirror (or a cell phone?) in the sound hole and see pretty quickly and easily what you have to deal with. Removing the fretboard from the top is not a big deal (compared to releasing a dovetail). Actually, the biggest concern would be the truss rod - hopefully it would be a simple repair with the neck off, but if you have to remove the fretboard to get in and replace it, that could be a major PITA - sounds like you’ll need a new saddle, probably a fret dressing, full set-up - and thats all the mechanical work, aesthetic stuff like shiny spots or finish touch-up are another issue - I have no idea what finish is on it, but if its satin it may be a UV cured material, which can be difficult to do much with.

Schoenbergs and Sylvan are also great options, as is Gryphon, but if you add in your travel time and such, it makes sense to stay as close to home as you can - IMHO, at least - plus, its always nice to establish a working relationship with a local shop, and be able to go back to them when you can. Plus, Geoff, the owner of SF Guitarworks, has been a member of Norcal (Northern Ca Asso of Luthiers), hosted meetings both at his shop in SF as well as his shop/ classroom in Petaluma, and has a very good reputation as a fair and decent repairman - and lets be honest, your not talking about restoring a prewar Martin -45, so I’d not spend too much time getting multiple prices and opinions -

The shop may not be open, but I’d bet if you called or emailed him, you could get things started sooner than later -

[rmgjsps]

Thanks to tadol and cliff_the_stiff for good advice. Not at all worried about the shiny spot and I can make a new saddle myself. I'm faliliar with Schoenberg as I bought m RK T16 fron Eric.

Once the world opens, I'm going to get an opinion from SFGW. I'm not interested in spending time running down a host of opinions or price points. Even with cars I am a buyer -- not a shopper. Once I get the range estimate, I'll either go ahead with the repair or I'll play the Lakewood till it becomes unplayable and keep it for esthetic reasons only -- the wood is just beautiful. Can always plant a geranium in the sound hole ;-)

Thanks again for the info and advice. Much appreciated.