#1
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Mahogany vs Sapele vs Cocobolo real life stories
Can anyone give me the low down on the difference between Cocobolo, Mahogany, and sapele back and sides. This will be for a rockbridge SJ with Red Spruce top.
All the info out there seems to reference other woods or vague terms that are hard to translate in to a real world application. I would love to hear from folks who have experience with both and which applications they shine and which they don’t. Play style is mostly strumming classic rock style with some single note lines when playing with a friend. Almost always with a pick. Any advice is great appreciated.
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#2
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OK, the simple lowdown - without terms like "warmer" or "focused." Mahogany doesn't produce harmonic overtones at the level of rosewood/cocobolo type guitars. In other words, you tend to hear more of just the notes you play and not so much of *other* frequencies activated by the simple act of making the top vibrate by strumming or plucking strings. This is considered an advantage in solos executed in group playing or when recording so that individual notes are clearly heard. You'll hear people referring to this as "cutting through the mix." Conversely, rosewood tends to pick up a lot of harmonic frequencies other than those specifically produced by fretted notes, and this quality is preferred by some performers of specific styles/genres, e.g. solo fingerstyle or Bluegrass rhythm. In spite of these alleged qualities, personal preference should always dictate how the harmonic qualities described here may be exploited to produce the music you want to express.
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#3
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I have all 3 with different builders.
Cocobolo Taylor 816 Mahogany Martin D42 Sapele SCGC D All three guitars are keepers and very different. I think the builder is more important then the side and back woods. It your choice is from one builder, I will most likely chose Cocobolo. The extra shimmer that rosewood provides for strumming can make a difference if you like to strum. |
#4
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Cocobolo is way denser/heavier than the other two. The best thing you can do is have a long conversation with the builder about what you want and go with that. Polling the audience here will not be as helpful as insights from your specific builder.
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#5
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This old Reverb listing certainly raves about this Rockbridge SJ with Red Spruce top and Cocobolo back & sides.
https://reverb.com/item/2219936-rock...-dave-matthews
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Brucebubs 1972 - Takamine D-70 2014 - Alvarez ABT60 Baritone 2015 - Kittis RBJ-195 Jumbo 2012 - Dan Dubowski#61 2018 - Rickenbacker 4003 Fireglo 2020 - Gibson Custom Shop Historic 1957 SJ-200 2021 - Epiphone 'IBG' Hummingbird |
#6
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Quote:
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Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#7
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Taylor's Wood and Steel magazine
Vol 102 Issue 1 contains detailed info on tonewoods. Highly recommended.
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Chris 2022 Taylor 714ce, 2020 Martin D-28 Modern Deluxe, 2013 Martin D-16GT, 1980 Yamaha FG-335 |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Some manufacturers use Mahogany and Sapele interchangeably. Sapele seems to have figure more consistently, but that's looks.
Cocobolo is different. It is a true rosewood and will sound that way. Usually quite beautiful, it often comes with an enhanced price tag. And it will be heavier with a different sound. So, soundwise, there are really 2 basic choices. The decision should be between you and your builder and come after a discussion that gives the builder an expectation of what you are looking for, how you intend to use it, and what your musical style is.
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The Bard Rocks Fay OM Sinker Redwood/Tiger Myrtle Sexauer L00 Adk/Magnolia For Sale Hatcher Jumbo Bearclaw/"Bacon" Padauk Goodall Jumbo POC/flamed Mahogany Appollonio 12 POC/Myrtle MJ Franks Resonator, all Australian Blackwood Blackbird "Lucky 13" - carbon fiber '31 National Duolian + many other stringed instruments. |
#10
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I agree with The Bard here. Have a discussion with the luthier about the tone that you are looking for. Let he/she/them listen to you play, if possible, and the decision will become clearer to you. Choosing tone woods for a guitar is a great dilemma to have. :-) Best, Jayne |
#11
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THIS^^^ Talk with the great folks at Rockbridge and go with what they suggest. One very important point is that they know their wood inventory, and what they have been getting out of it tonally with their various body shapes and sizes, and wood combos...top/back and sides...so they can give you a very accurate assessment of what sound you can expect depending on the wood choice. We here on the AGF can speculate about what will wood and wood combo will sound like what...but Rockbridge knows their wood and what it will sound like. Get your info from the very best source...the folks what will use their wood to build your guitar!!! duff Be A Player...Not A Polisher |
#12
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A couple of generalities - (good) adirondack gives a tight, focused response, with good note separation and clarity, as opposed to a more blended sound that you generally get from say, sitka. It can take some time for adi to really open up, but you’ll get a lot of it right away. Mahogany has a more fundamental and warmer response, and pairs very nicely with adi - Cocobolo has a great deal of clarity and brightness, and when paired with adi, it can create a real hot-rod of an instrument, which can be challenging for a rhythm strummer, but in the hands of a talented fingerstyle or flatpicker, is incredibly dynamic. Sapele lies somewhere in between, and is quite dependent on how the builder chooses to use it.
You should play examples of these, even by other builders, to get a better sense of how these woods sound with the way you like to play. While it’s true that the builder has a lot to do with the final sound, no builder can make mahogany sound like cocobolo, or vice-versa. Once you have a better idea of how they sound generally, you’ll be in a much better place to talk to your builder about what you hear, and what you like or don’t like about each, and what they can do to meet your goals. Good luck!
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More than a few Santa Cruz’s, a few Sexauers, a Patterson, a Larrivee, a Cumpiano, and a Klepper!! |
#13
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I have a red spruce/sapele slope shoulder. I find this guitar loud and bright rather than warm. Fewer overtones, than a walnut/sitka SS that I tried, but incredible sustain. And way louder (i.e., more headroom and more volume from a similar touch).
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#14
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I own one Cocobolo guitar, and have played a handful. I find Cocobolo to be loud, with a lot of overtone content and sustain. I prefer it for fingerstyle, but less so for strumming. On a strumming guitar I find Cocobolo can sound very impressive initially, but can deliver 'too much' sustain at times and sound a bit harsh and muddy.
If I was investing in a high dollar custom guitar I would personally choose Mahogany, but that's because it's my favorite tonewood, but your mileage may vary. I'd be careful with Cocobolo unless the builder really recommended it for my style of playing and my tonal preferences.
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| 1968 Martin D-28 | 1949 Gibson J-45 | 1955 Gibson LG-2 | Santa Cruz 000 Cocobolo / Italian Spruce | Martin D-18 1939 Authentic Aged | Martin Gruhn Guitars Custom D-21 Adi/Madi | Gibson J-45 | Fender American Elite Telecaster | Fender American Standard Stratocaster | Gibson Les Paul Standard | Gibson Les Paul Studio | PRS Custom 24 10-Top | Gibson Les Paul 1960 Reissue (R0) | |
#15
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The one thing I have learned about tone woods is that the builder makes the largest difference.
I have 3 spruce/mahogany guitars, a Gibson J-45, a Larrivee OM-05 and a Martin D-16GT and they all sound very different. That said, cocobolo looks really nice.
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