#1
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Adjusting the truss rod: Strings off? Strings on?
I recently tried to adjust my truss rod to add a tiny bit of relief when the strings were off. Man, was it easy to turn the bolt with the allen wrench (Ibanez, adj in sound hole) without strings. When I got the new strings on, the amount of relief now allowed the strings to be noticably higher off the fret board. There was much more difference in the action this time compared to doing it in the past with the strings on and approx the same amount of turning on the rod. I moved it about 1/4 turn or so I'd guess.
What is suggested for truss rod adjustment? Strings on? Strings off? Jack |
#2
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On, if you slack the strings before back bowing/tightening/clockwising.
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#3
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Always do rod adjustments with the strings on, tuned to pitch. On a healthy neck, there's no good reason to worry about slacking the strings. Also, ignore any nonsense about only doing 1/4 turn at a time. Just turn it until it looks and plays right. The only time I would slack the strings as Bax advises would be if the rod is close to being maxed out - then I would slack the strings and force a back bow into the neck while tightening the rod.
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#4
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Me too, always with the strings at pitch unless of course it's one of those necks that must be removed like on a Tele. It's funny about the 1/4in thing too. Yes in some cases a small adjustment goes a long way but in others it does nothing. But some how that 1/4in became a rule that must adhere to else your guitar will blow up and start on fire.
Tweak it till it's set right. |
#5
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I find laying the guitar down and resting my forearm on the body and pushing the neck down helps if you are tightening it (with strings on) if you are loosening it, just loosen it. That is just what I find works for me
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disclaimer I don't know anything, everything I say is a guess, estimate, hearsay, or opinion. For your safety, don't assume anything I say is a fact. Research |
#6
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On headstock adjustment type construction: With the strings at full tension, I hold the body between my legs withe the tail block on the floor, and pull the neck back at the nut to relieve the tension while I manipulate the truss rod nut.
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#7
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There's a lot of different truss rod designs out there, so any generalizations about adjusting the truss rod will be incorrect. There are some double-action rods that only have a turn and a half, maybe two, for the entire adjustment range. On those rods, more than a quarter turn would be excessive. Most of the other designs require more than that.
Same idea about adjusting under string tension. Some designs are robust enough to deform the neck under full string tension, some are not. I usually use blocks and a clamp to flex the neck in the desired direction before adjusting the truss rod, that takes all the stress off the threads. It's not usually necessary, but sometimes it is. It's never a bad idea.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#8
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What you are saying only makes sense if you are tightening the rod. |
#9
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Turn the wrench clockwise makes the neck bend "backwards" as I understand it. If you turn it enough the strings could actually be laying on the frets. Turn it counter-clockwise to move the head towards the front of the guitar. This makes the strings farther away from the fret board especially on the higher frets. I may be missing something. Jack |
#10
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