Soundboard crack & loose binding? Help?

[capemjs]

Hi everyone.

I recently bought and am thoroughly enjoying my latest purchase:
2000 Larrivee P - 01 with walnut B/S

It has two small issues, could someone provide me with some feedback?

I noticed a small crack on the top and the plastic black fingerboard binding is coming loose at the first fret.

What should I do? Is this something I can fix myself? What glue would I use? Should a luthier do it? Does it even require any fixing at all?

[Tony Done]

I would fix both of those myself with superglue, no problem. For the binding, mask it up, work the glue into the gaps then clamp it. Scrap off the excess.. Basically the same deal with the crack, mask it up as close to the crack as you can get on both the top and fretboard, then fill the crack. Remove the masking, scrape of the excess and polish lightly with metal polish.

[Running Dog]

Personally, I would never use superglue on spruce unless I wanted to advertise the repair. I also wonder what caused the crack next to the fingerboard -- it may be a humidity crack and there may be other issues.

Fixing the separated binding, on the other hand, is about as straightforward as Tony says, and is a perfect superglue fix. Try to pull the binding back into place against the fingerboard first. Superglue (CA) isn't a good gap-filler except in the thicker versions.

[capemjs]

Thanks for the advice.

I'll try to superglue the binding as stated.

I'm assuming there is no harm in stringing the guitar up with the soundboard crack is there? It looks extremely small. Does string tension play any role in it?

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by Running Dog

Personally, I would never use superglue on spruce unless I wanted to advertise the repair. I also wonder what caused the crack next to the fingerboard -- it may be a humidity crack and there may be other issues.

Fixing the separated binding, on the other hand, is about as straightforward as Tony says, and is a perfect superglue fix. Try to pull the binding back into place against the fingerboard first. Superglue (CA) isn't a good gap-filler except in the thicker versions.

Yeah, I was assuming that the soundboard crack is only in the finish, in which case it should be invisible on catalysed poly. It would leave a black line if the timber is cracked, but I don't know how you avoid that without making a filler strip.

[capemjs]

Should this crack be professionally cleated? Or is there some other way to fix it?

This guitar has a satin finish.

And again thanks for the help!

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by capemjs

Should this crack be professionally cleated? Or is there some other way to fix it?

This guitar has a satin finish.

And again thanks for the help!

I think you should take it to a pro repairer if you think that tha soundboard is cracked - repairing satin finishes isn't easy.

It occurs to me that lifting binding and soundboard crack are symptomatic of shrinkage, possibly due to excessive drying. Maybe the crack will close up if the guitar is kept well-humidified.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by Tony Done

Yeah, I was assuming that the soundboard crack is only in the finish, in which case it should be invisible on catalysed poly. It would leave a black line if the timber is cracked, but I don't know how you avoid that without making a filler strip.

In cracks too small to reasonably fit a sliver, I have made wood dust (file & off-cut from a guitar top) to fill the crack with titebond & wood-dust paste.

For binding, I usually use titebond III since it is waterproof and resists loosening from sweat.

[John Arnold]

Does string tension play any role in it?

Only if the crack runs the full length from the soundhole to the upper edge of the guitar. In that case, string tension can cause the neck to push into the soundhole. However, in order for that to occur, braces and the neck block must come loose from the top, and that usually only happens when the guitar has been overheated.

Should this crack be professionally cleated? Or is there some other way to fix it?

A popsicle brace is all that is needed, and AFAIK, that is part of the bracing system on a P-01.
Hairline cracks need thin glue, and on spruce I normally use watered-down hot hide glue. As has been pointed out, thin super glue will soak into the soft spruce and darken it.
Once the crack is glued, the finish can be touched up with lacquer or shellac.

For binding, I usually use titebond III

A lot of repairmen use Titebond on plastic, but I have no confidence in it.....unless the plastic is wiped with acetone just before gluing. That is a bit tricky on a binding reglue.
CA (super glue) is all I use to reglue plastic binding. It is waterproof, too.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

A lot of repairmen use Titebond on plastic, but I have no confidence in it.....unless the plastic is wiped with acetone just before gluing. That is a bit tricky on a binding reglue.
CA (super glue) is all I use to reglue plastic binding. It is waterproof, too.

Agreed. From the photo, I first thought it was ebony binding (which I use titebond with).

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by Ned Milburn

In cracks too small to reasonably fit a sliver, I have made wood dust (file & off-cut from a guitar top) to fill the crack with titebond & wood-dust paste.

For binding, I usually use titebond III since it is waterproof and resists loosening from sweat.

I've used black tempera (powder) paint mixed with epoxy for all sorts of jobs where black is OK, from a complete bridge and saddle for a National 59 lap steel, to a pseudo endcap to filling cracks and chips in ebony. It is both very strong and highly adhesive. If I did enough of this kind of repair I would get an assortment of other colours to match different timbers, but it doesn't come in the tiny amounts I would need. Maybe dried and reground wood filler would work instead of tempera. - A lot cheaper.

[John Arnold]

it doesn't come in the tiny amounts I would need.

I use an assortment of chalk pastels.

http://www.mansionschools.com/faber-...FTIV7AodnTwAmg

My Grumbacher set #00/C only has 30 colors, but you get the idea.

They are relatively cheap, and mixing them will generate most any color. I use an XActo knife to scratch some of the chalk into super glue, lacquer, or shellac (my favorite).

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I use an assortment of chalk pastels.

http://www.mansionschools.com/faber-...FTIV7AodnTwAmg

My Grumbacher set #00/C only has 30 colors, but you get the idea.

They are relatively cheap, and mixing them will generate most any color. I use an XActo knife to scratch some of the chalk into super glue, lacquer, or shellac (my favorite).

Excellent option, thanks.

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by Tony Done

Excellent option, thanks.

I did a bit of research, and hair chalk might also suit; perhaps easier to obtain locally.

[capemjs]

Thanks everyone for the help and advice.

The binding was an easy fix with a little glue.

I haven't touched the crack yet however. It is extremely small and I can barely feel it with my fingernail when I run it over it. Paper will not fit into it.

I am still a little unsure of what to do with it at the moment. Judging from the posts I am going to let the guitar get into a healthy humidity range and then reassess it from there. The top and the back of the guitar do not seem shrunk or bowed from lack of humidity. Frets feel good up till the 12th fret but after that they start to feel sharp - perhaps that's just the doing of a budget 12-fret parlor?

The next step would be to tackle it with some glue but I don't have the resources to make up a glue at the moment or order hot hide glue either.., I also don't want to spend too much money if I don't have to.