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#1
11-19-2022, 12:21 PM
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Quick neck reset ?
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#3
11-19-2022, 01:36 PM
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having done many neck resets...im sure the gentleman in the vid is a very nice man, however i would strongly advise against doing this...period. the damage that could be done to the guitar is endless (top separation/kerfing/binding/bracing/neck block/etc etc etc etc) we could write a book on the hazards of doing this, but i will keep it short. imo, dont do this!!!
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Don 1929 SS Stewart Pro Archtop 1921 G Houghton Archtop Banjo 2007 George Rizsanyi Custom Maple Banjo Killer 2017 James Malejczuk Custom OM Black Limba 1980 Norman B50-12 Norman B-20 Recording King single 0 1996 Takamine 1967 Yam G-130 Melvina 1980s Seagull S6 Cedar 2003 Briarwood 1970s Eko Maple 1982 Ovation 2020 Fender Telecaster Mandolin Yam THR5A Sienna 35 Kustom
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#4
11-20-2022, 04:25 AM
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I liked the fact that John Minor was working on correcting the movement that created the need for the neck reset in the first place - the collapse of the top between the neck block and the sound hole. A standard neck reset does not do this - it adjusts the neck angle to compensate for the amount of structural failure at the time of the reset.
This is sort of the guitar building "elephant in the room". The "traditional" Martin/Gibson et al design for the area between the neck block and sound hole is.... crap! And long has been so. I look inside my (expensive) D-18 and go "Where's the beef?". I look inside my (cheap) Art & Lutherie and go "Now that's been designed by an engineer". Taking John's specific system for doing the job aside (I cannot comment on any other issues his system for correction may create), isn't he correct in his premise to tackle the actual structural movement rather than opting for a doing a process to, essentially, mask the failure? Does anyone else correct the fault that caused the need for a neck reset, rather than taking the neck off a putting it back on at a different angle?
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I'm learning to flatpick and fingerpick guitar to accompany songs. I've played and studied traditional noter/drone mountain dulcimer for many years. And I used to play dobro in a bluegrass band. Last edited by Robin, Wales; 11-20-2022 at 05:14 AM.
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#5
11-20-2022, 12:18 PM
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sstewart - I read a number of comments on the youtube page about the fix and many people have responded with having sucessful experiences doing it.
Robin - I agree. I believe his approach, along with proper build by manufacturers is the way to go.
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#6
11-28-2022, 04:10 AM
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I carried out this neck reset procedure on a ‘70s built Yamaha FG365s (which was likely to have an epoxied heel/neck block joint). I did have to apply two doses of steam three weeks apart but the result was successful and allowed me to fit a taller saddle with action down to 90 thou’ on the 6th string. Two years down the line the action hasn’t changed, so for me it was a worthwhile experiment. There is a risk of damage though and I don’t think I would use this method on one of my more expensive “traditionally built” guitars. It did give the FG a new lease of life though.
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#7
11-28-2022, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
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I'm learning to flatpick and fingerpick guitar to accompany songs. I've played and studied traditional noter/drone mountain dulcimer for many years. And I used to play dobro in a bluegrass band.
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