#1
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Martin Guitars Neck Adjustments
Every time it gets cooler outside, I have to always take my Martins to my setup guy to get the necks adjusted because with a capo on, the A string has fret buzz when strumming (regardless if I'm forming a chord or not). This happens every single year, and I'm kind of getting tired of doing this every year since I have 9 Martins. It doesn't happen on any of my other guitars - Collings, Bourgeois, Gibsons, etc...
So what is causing this? And why does it only happen on my Martins? And lastly, if I try to adjust the neck myself, do I need to turn the wrench clockwise or counter-clockwise to make the A string stop buzzing? As you can probably tell, I don't do my own setups. I would rather leave it to a professional, but maybe I can try to adjust the neck a little. In the summer, I keep my house dehumidified (44% to 49%) and when I turn on the heat, I use my humidifier and keep the house in that same range. I also keep humidipaks in the guitars when they are in the case. |
#2
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I don’t need to adjust the truss rod on my Martins unless I change string tension.
It sounds like your guitars have very low action which when the air is more dry the wood shrinks some and the action comes down. Because you notice this seasonally I think perhaps you might benefit from a humidifier and a temperature and humidity gauge. Going from lighter strings to heavier strings increases neck tension. To counter that increase sometimes it takes an eighth to a quarter turn on the truss rod. What you are describing to me sounds like you should loosen it a hair. the truss rod is righty tighty, lefty loosey. Like a tug of war, if the strings are pulling harder than the truss rod you will have more neck curve towards the strings. if the neck is pulling harder than the strings the neck will flatten or pull away from the strings bringing them closer to the fretboard |
#3
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So I need to turn it counter-clockwise which would be going to the left of the guitar, right? I just want to make sure I understand. Again, this is will be my first time doing it because I'm tired of taking all of my Martins to my setup guy when the weather get cooler...
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#4
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Another (better?) solution would be to have a saddle contoured with the A string seating up a bit higher since that string buzzes in all positions. I'm surprised your setup guy hasn't suggested this. I've heard of some players keeping two sets of saddles, one higher and one lower, for the different seasons and swapping them out at the appropriate time when changing strings.
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'21 Bourgeois Vintage D '21 Martin Custom Shop 18 Style 3 personally crafted mandolins 2 tele partscasters Yamaha Pacifica 611 VFM |
#5
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When warmer weather comes around, should I adjust it back to where it currently is now? Again, I'm sort of new to this, so thank you for helping.
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#6
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I’m also curious which Martins you have… 9 is a lot of Martins |
#7
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Martin custom HD-28 with Adi top
Martin custom D-41 with madagascar b/s (000 depth size - thin body) Martin D-28 Modern Deluxe Martin SS-D35-13 Martin Super D with GRW (recently bought) Martin CEO-7 Martin custom 00 with Cocobolo b/s Martin custom D-28 with Cocobolo b/s with Adi VTS top and authentic bracing Martin D-41 Martin D-28 Marquis On order - Martin custom HD-28 in Navy blue with Adi VTS top, EIR, and authentic bracing On order - Martin custom HD-28 with Adi VTS top, Guatamalan b/s, and authentic bracing On order - Martin custom D-18 with Adi VTS top, Sinker Mahogany, golden era bracing I just counted, and I currently have 10, not 9 Martins. |
#8
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Considering this is the Archtop subforum, you need one of these - a "Golden Era" vintage instrument from a renowned maker, for about the same price as a new Custom Shop Martin: https://www.archtop.com/ac_45emp_622.html :
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"Mistaking silence for weakness and contempt for fear is the final, fatal error of a fool" - Sicilian proverb (paraphrased) |
#9
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thanks for sharing |
#10
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By the way, good truss rod info in this thread too. Tony
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“The guitar is a wonderful thing which is understood by few.” — Franz Schubert "Alexa, where's my stuff?" - Anxiously waiting... |
#11
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#12
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FYI Epiphone produced a very limited run of Japanese-made '39 Emperor reissues (actually a late '37 - asymmetrical headstock and Frequensator) in the mid-90's that listed for around $3K - about one-third what the Gibson Custom Shop was charging for an all-acoustic non-cut Super 400 at the time; TMK only around 40 were made, and the only one I've seen for sale on the used market (most owners are keeping theirs - small wonder) went for just under $5K about ten years ago. As has been previously discussed here on the Archtop forum, there was a long-standing rumor that when Epiphone realized they had a bunch of real dogs on their hands with the Masterbilt archtops, they were going to replace them with a line of Chinese-made all-carved instruments, more historically accurate then the Masterbilts and priced to compete with Loar and Eastman; having taken a very different direction it seems that prospect is all but dead, and given their experience with the highly-respected Elite/Elitist line of high-quality/low-price MIJ instruments - Gibson cosmetics/tone/QC at half (or less) the price - and the current five-figure price for a Custom Shop archtop (if they'll even build you one), I suspect it's going to stay that way...
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"Mistaking silence for weakness and contempt for fear is the final, fatal error of a fool" - Sicilian proverb (paraphrased) |