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  #136  
Old 10-13-2018, 09:18 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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I've been busy doing more home improvement stuff but have been whittling away at the kerfing here and there. Apart from the A frame braces being too tall for the grooves in the neck block extension the top is nearly ready to get glued on to the rims.

The back is ready to go immediately thereafter.

After that: binding. I'm thinking of going the gramil/chisel route. I HATE power tools.
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  #137  
Old 10-13-2018, 02:23 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil K Walk View Post
After that: binding. I'm thinking of going the gramil/chisel route. I HATE power tools.
I think that doing binding ledges with a gramil/chisel might just decrease your dislike of power tools.
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  #138  
Old 03-28-2019, 07:50 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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I FINALLY glued something to the sides. I was gearing up to do the back first but decided to do the top instead. The rims aren't quite ready to accept the back yet.

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  #139  
Old 04-12-2019, 03:10 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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The box is closed. I opted to just use clamps instead of the gobar deck. I dry fitted it 5x.
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  #140  
Old 04-12-2019, 03:11 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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I'm also intent on cleaning up the mortise/tenon fit - just to be particular.
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  #141  
Old 04-15-2019, 05:58 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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I routed off the excess from the plates and am going to try to fashion a Hatcher style jig to rout for binding. I’m also working on the initial/rough neck set. The goal is to get the centerline straight, not the full angle.

Just looking to pick up momentum.
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  #142  
Old 04-15-2019, 03:21 PM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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Cool. It's coming along now
How does Mark Hatcher's binding jig work? I don't remember seeing him use anything particularly special for that but he has some very handy solutions. Have I missed a good one?
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  #143  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:24 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=507597

It’s a version of a jig designed by (or at least used by) Jean Larrivee. Charles Tayber has said that Grit Laskin has used a version of it for years as well. When I toured the Martin factory a couple of years ago I saw a worker using something very similar.

It looks easy to make and I have an idea to modify it. I really don’t want to make something that requires complicated telescoping arms and make a separate sled for the body it seems like overkill.
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  #144  
Old 04-16-2019, 03:56 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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I uploaded some pics just to prove it happened.





I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to rout for the binding; I lack the tools which are so expensive as to be prohibitive. I could buy them but my wife would have words.

In the meantime, I've been switching focus back to resolving the neck. I got overzealous on the back of the headstock and need to put on a matching ziricote back plate on the headstock; the tuner posts currently sit much too proud of the face plate.

The rosette also needs some attention. I sanded the abalam ring down too much and it lost its brilliance.
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  #145  
Old 04-17-2019, 09:45 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil K Walk View Post
I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to rout for the binding; I lack the tools which are so expensive as to be prohibitive. I could buy them but my wife would have words.
There are numerous ways to cut the binding rabbets using a router. If you have a router, you have the means.

Start by understanding "the problem". The problem is that you want to have uniform width and depth rabbets around the perimeter of the guitar into which you can glue bindings and purflings. The catch is that, typically, both the back and top are not flat. If the surface of top or back is used as a reference for a router base - for either or both of depth and width of the rabbet - the router will varyingly tilt as the router base rests upon and follows the changing contour of the curved back and top. This will leave you with varying depth and width rabbets.

The simplest arrangement is to ignore the problem and use a laminate trimmer attachment on your router. Once the rabbets are cut, "clean-up" the rabbets to make them uniform in depth and width. This can be done with chisels, files and riffler files. The router does 85% of the work.

Numerous simple attachments can be made for your router that address the problem. Some use the sides as the reference, rather than the surface of the top or back, while others have "donuts" or similar arrangements to localize the area of the top or back that is referenced, reducing/eliminating the tilting of the router while cutting the rabbets. Do an on-line search and you'll likely find a bunch of do-it-yourself options. The router does 90+% of the work.

Next up is the "class" of jigs that hold the router base horizontal and then one "introduces" the guitar to the router that can only move vertically, preventing the tipping that occurs if the top or back is used as a reference. There are several variations on this concept. Again, an on-line search will find these. The router does 98%

Last, is the "class" of jigs that reference the sides of the guitar and the guitar body slides along that reference the body is presented to the router bit. The Larrivee jig is one example of that. The router does 99% of the work.

These are listed above in, roughly, order of expense and complexity. All will work and save time and effort over doing it all by hand. Simply chose one that fits within your budget and skills and implement it.

Note, the per cent work done by the router, as listed above, is representational.
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  #146  
Old 04-17-2019, 10:48 AM
JonWint JonWint is online now
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Since you have a router, build one of these:

[IMG][/IMG]




Or drive to 19608 and use my TrueChannel Binding Router Jig with Guitar Body Cradle.
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  #147  
Old 04-17-2019, 12:05 PM
BradHall BradHall is offline
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I have a hand held router jig I would be happy to loan you. I would need to know what make and model you have to determine if the base plate would fit. Send me a pm and a photo. Where is SWPA?
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  #148  
Old 04-17-2019, 02:44 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonWint View Post
Since you have a router, build one of these:

[IMG][/IMG]




Or drive to 19608 and use my TrueChannel Binding Router Jig with Guitar Body Cradle.
That is exactly what I am going to do. I have a Harbor Freight laminate trimmer (with a 1/4" chuck) and a Dremel (with a 1/8" chuck) though, not a proper router.

EDIT: I would probably try to emulate the first one; it looks like it's adjustable and I've seen that metal collar in the plumbing section of the local hardware store.
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Last edited by Neil K Walk; 04-17-2019 at 06:09 PM.
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  #149  
Old 07-11-2019, 08:58 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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I'm sorry I hijacked the other thread on this but for the sake of continuity here's mine. It looks like it's smoking a cigar but this was my work around for making it adjustable and inexpensive. It's actually a barrel bolt with steel spacers to extend the width of the guide:



It still needs some tweaking. I used a cheap 1/4" downcut bit and it wasn't a smooth operation but I'm pleased with the results:





This was just the pass for the wood binding, and not doing the end graft before closing the box complicated things. Not doing a wedge style was problematic and I had issues with aligning the centerlines. I have it all figured out now but I have to get creative with how to clamp it in place.
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  #150  
Old 09-03-2019, 09:56 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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This lapsed a bit again, but not for lack of progress. Threads in AGF sink to the bottom and this one takes some digging to find. That being said, I've moved on to bending the curly maple binding on a homemade bending pipe/propane torch combo using glass cleaner with ammonia in a spray bottle. It works. For safety's sake I moved operations out into my driveway.



As you can see, I bent them in pairs and utilized a bending form as a means of storage while the binding cooled. As far as the process goes, it's not that difficult and curly maple is actually quite easy to bend if you're patient. It doesn't have a terrible amount of spring back and as long as you focus on the tightest parts of the curve it will comply quite easily with tape:



I will admit that the second pass on the jig where I had to rout for the inner purfling exposed the weakness in my binding routing jig; I need to modify it with a second barrel bolt to stabilize the guide better. There were some gaps in the channel on the top but nothing a little cleanup with a small file couldn't fix.

The top didn't come out perfect, but I'm satisfied. I'll raise my standards next time around.

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