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  #1  
Old 11-26-2019, 05:44 PM
Bax Burgess Bax Burgess is offline
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Default Well rounded, richer sound not so appealing?

What could one add to the list to produce an even crisper flattop?

14 fret
25.4 to 25.6 scale
cutaway
solid mahogany top
lam back/sides or solid maple
straight braced
bone saddle
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:14 PM
Bass.swimmer Bass.swimmer is offline
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You could try moving the bridge as far towards the tailblock as possible, and a maple bridge/bridgeplate
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Old 11-27-2019, 03:44 AM
Bax Burgess Bax Burgess is offline
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The shifting of the bridge towards the tailblock surprises me. Don't very small bodied guitars do that to accentuate the bass?
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:03 AM
Bass.swimmer Bass.swimmer is offline
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I haven't actually heard if that amplifying bass before, that's really interesting. I just know I goofed hard in one of my parlor builds and put the bridgeplate way to far towards the tailblock. Like, the neck had to attach at the 10th fret to put the bridge in the right spot. It still sounds good, just pretty dry (and now that you mention it, it did have good bass.).
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:42 PM
mb propsom mb propsom is offline
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I'd recommend starting with a stiffer top; one with a stronger fundamental. That would eliminate WRC, Redwood, most Englemann tops. I'd steer you toward an Adirondack, or a stiffer Carpathian or Sitka. Then you could also make the bracing a bit stiffer. This of course, is just the beginning. You'll still need to "tune" the box after it's together.
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2019, 06:43 PM
Bax Burgess Bax Burgess is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb propsom View Post
...You'll still need to "tune" the box after it's together.
What's involved in doing this?
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  #7  
Old 12-04-2019, 09:00 AM
redir redir is offline
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I'm not really sure what the question(s) is but as far as bridge placement one cannot simply place the bridge where they want on the guitars top. Bridge placement is dependent on the scale length of the guitar, the body joint fret, and compensation.

If you wanted to place the bridge closer to the tail block for what ever reason then you would keep the guitar body design the same and join at the 12th fret. I don't think I've ever seen a guitar join less the 12th but I suppose you could do that too.

If what you are saying is that you don't like the sound of a responsive guitar then you might consider making the top thick and the bracing stiff and work it down from there.
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