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  #61  
Old 11-29-2018, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by j. Kinnaird View Post
It is a lot of fun following your build threads. I have "borrowed " more than one building technique from watching you go through the process.
And how great is it to have a photographer on staff. if I were to take a pic similar to your special 2 hand clamping procedure the camera would need a tripod, a time release, focus trials, etc. etc. and I Ain't doing that.
Glad I am able to share with you John so feel free to borrow away.

It certainly is a tremendous blessing to have a photographer on staff.
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  #62  
Old 12-01-2018, 06:36 AM
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You're getting a little too high tech for most of us there buddy!
Its a tough job but somebody's got to do it.
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  #63  
Old 12-01-2018, 06:47 AM
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Another "boring" picture, "boring" tuner holes










I like to put a slight chamfer on the tuner holes. It makes installing the press in bushings a lot easier and less risk of finish damage.
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  #64  
Old 12-01-2018, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j. Kinnaird View Post
It is a lot of fun following your build threads. I have "borrowed " more than one building technique from watching you go through the process.
And how great is it to have a photographer on staff. if I were to take a pic similar to your special 2 hand clamping procedure the camera would need a tripod, a time release, focus trials, etc. etc. and I Ain't doing that.
Tammy Wynette would have to change her tune to "stand by your man, but the world doesn't really want to see you."

John, I can't claim fame to being a photographer, but if I'm ever in your neighborhood I will give you a day of pictures and free labor. Remind me if that day comes!
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  #65  
Old 12-01-2018, 08:32 AM
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Tammy Wynette would have to change her tune to "stand by your man, but the world doesn't really want to see you."

John, I can't claim fame to being a photographer, but if I'm ever in your neighborhood I will give you a day of pictures and free labor. Remind me if that day comes!
Ok Mary
Don’t think I won’t take you up on that because I will. Tim is a fortunate man to have you as part of the Lutherie team
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  #66  
Old 12-01-2018, 04:38 PM
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Beautiful. I love cocobolo and appreciate your explanations Tim.

Thanks for sharing.
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  #67  
Old 12-03-2018, 07:03 AM
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Beautiful. I love cocobolo and appreciate your explanations Tim.

Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the kind words and following along with us Growler.
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  #68  
Old 12-03-2018, 07:10 AM
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Shaping the back brace ends:









Planing the brace edge profile:










Marking the rim for the back brace locations:










Notching the rim at the ^marked^ locations:










Notched result of the router ^
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  #69  
Old 12-03-2018, 08:38 AM
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Just wondering please, when it comes to shaping the ends of the braces into that fine curve or taking off edges to shape along the braces, does anyone ever use a dremel tool with say a pineapple type bit, like an oval shaped bit, that could be used to curve those braces vs. the chisel. Or is the chisel used to remove larger amounts and a dremel used for final finishing?
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  #70  
Old 12-03-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TomB'sox View Post
Just wondering please, when it comes to shaping the ends of the braces into that fine curve or taking off edges to shape along the braces, does anyone ever use a dremel tool with say a pineapple type bit, like an oval shaped bit, that could be used to curve those braces vs. the chisel. Or is the chisel used to remove larger amounts and a dremel used for final finishing?
Great question Tom. There is a very famous, world renowned luthier, who does something similar to what you have described above. His method is a little more complex and controlled. He uses an over-arm parallelogram fixture, with a trim router mounted to the end of the parallel arms. The fixture allows the router to remain perfectly vertical and perpendicular to the work piece, regardless of where the router is moved or elevated to. He mounts a carbide cutter, which closely resembles the shape of an inverted Christmas tree, in the router. The top or back are fixtured on a table below the router. After the braces are glued to each plate, then its a matter of "tracing" around the edges of each brace, allowing the inverted Christmas Tree shaped cutter to remove excess material from vertical edge of each brace. It works very well having seen it used in person.

I've often thought about building a similar tool but I never got around to it. Instead I have come up with my own method of profiling the edges of the braces before they are glued to the top or back plates, using a special 3" diameter shaper bit. If you view my braces from the end they look like the silhouette of the Eiffel Tower. This profile shape allows the braces to be exceptionally light and stiff as [required], which is determined by how much wood I remove from the top edge of each brace during my voicing process.

I always shape the ends of each brace using a wood chisel after the braces are glued down. It could be done ahead of time though I consider it part of my voicing process and prefer to do it post gluing. After I scoop the ends, I sand them smooth with a 2" diameter air powered roll sander.

Lots of different ways to skin the proverbial cat.

Again, great question Tom and thanks for asking.
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  #71  
Old 12-04-2018, 12:29 PM
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Can anyone guess what this is or what is happening here?
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  #72  
Old 12-04-2018, 12:58 PM
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Oh oh oh... Mr. Kotter. I can guess!
(I know where the cheat sheet is!)
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  #73  
Old 12-04-2018, 07:12 PM
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You are definitely gluing something to something else with white wood glue!!! Me so smart!
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  #74  
Old 12-04-2018, 07:51 PM
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You are definitely gluing something to something else with white wood glue!!! Me so smart!
You are so smart and I’m pretty sure you are onto something Tom...
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  #75  
Old 12-07-2018, 07:03 AM
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What you see in the last image above is white MOP shell glued and clamped to a backer board. This allows me to hold the shell while cutting inlay pieces.

The "X" was the last letter I cut and I broke FIVE 1/32" diameter carbide bits in the process. I cut all the other letters and Knight head logo with one bit but the X gave me fits. Its got to be the most expensive inlay piece I've ever cut since the bits are ~$25.00 each. These are some of the little frustrations that the end user usually never sees and costs we absorb behind the scenes. I'm not complaining, its just part of the process.











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