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  #16  
Old 07-05-2018, 12:12 PM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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Here is another update, and milestone one.
We now have a closed box. I was really hoping to get the binding channels cut today but ran out of time and now I may have to wait until next thursday which is annoying.

Enjoy


The top after being glued on
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

Front of the closed box after the excess was trimmed away
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

Back view after being excess trimmed away
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

3/4 view
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr
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  #17  
Old 07-14-2018, 10:01 AM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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So here we go again with another quick update.
Despite not being able to get a lot of time in the workshop lately, i've managed to get the bindings on and as such it looks much better now.
I added a stabilised maple inlay for the end graft and i'm definitely happy with how that looks.

The obligatory pictures

Routing the binding channels
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

gluing and taping the rocklite bindings
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

front side with the bindings on
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

back side with the bindings on
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

stabilised maple end graft
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2018, 11:05 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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It's coming along very nicely.

A word of caution regarding method. It is inadvisable to leave that much overhanging waste on the top and back. It invites splitting the top and/or back along the grain at the extremes of upper and lower bouts. (Don't ask me how I know this. ) As you become more assured in your work, you'll find you don't need to leave that much excess - an 1/8" or so is more than enough once you have your processes sufficiently controlled and are comfortable with them.
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  #19  
Old 07-15-2018, 04:22 AM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
It's coming along very nicely.

A word of caution regarding method. It is inadvisable to leave that much overhanging waste on the top and back. It invites splitting the top and/or back along the grain at the extremes of upper and lower bouts. (Don't ask me how I know this. ) As you become more assured in your work, you'll find you don't need to leave that much excess - an 1/8" or so is more than enough once you have your processes sufficiently controlled and are comfortable with them.
Thanks Charles
actually leaving that much overhang was for a reason,
a) on my previous build it seemed my mould actually stretched or moved significantly and it ended up such that i was lucky i had left so much overhang because if i hadn't the top would barely have fit. I was probably paranoid of that happening again so I once more left plenty of overhang, but this time round my new mould is much better, it definitely won't move or stretch and is much more accurate and so in the future you're right i can probably leave less overhang
b) the bandsaw in the workshop i go to has a very deep blade, its at least 1 inch possibly 1.25 inches. Its pretty tricky to cut anything but the shallowest of curves with it and that makes it awkward to cut close to the outline of a guitar and also without ripping chunks out of the underside of the top when cutting across the grain, although that could just be the brittleness of the redwood i was using here. I don't remember so much of that happening with the spruce.
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  #20  
Old 07-15-2018, 06:12 AM
Quickstep192 Quickstep192 is offline
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Wow! This is really turning out to be a beautiful guitar. Who gets it?
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  #21  
Old 07-15-2018, 08:55 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmsone View Post
b) the bandsaw in the workshop i go to has a very deep blade, its at least 1 inch possibly 1.25 inches.
It's the wrong blade for that job. Typically a 1/4" or 3/8" blade should be used to cut curves in thin wood. Such a wide blade is for straight cuts, typically resawing lumber.

One option would be to change the blade, typically a 5 minute operation. Another would be to use a disk sander to remove the excess waste after cutting with the 1 or 1 1/4" blade, but before attaching bracing.
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  #22  
Old 07-15-2018, 01:14 PM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
It's the wrong blade for that job. Typically a 1/4" or 3/8" blade should be used to cut curves in thin wood. Such a wide blade is for straight cuts, typically resawing lumber.

One option would be to change the blade, typically a 5 minute operation. Another would be to use a disk sander to remove the excess waste after cutting with the 1 or 1 1/4" blade, but before attaching bracing.
Indeed, it absolutely is the wrong blade for the job, but neither is it my bandsaw nor my workshop. For a public access workshop, its probably a reasonable blade selection, i don't think too many people who are in there need to cut curves.
I'm sure i'll find a solution for next time.
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  #23  
Old 07-15-2018, 04:00 PM
KingCavalier KingCavalier is offline
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Looks great, keep those pics coming.
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  #24  
Old 07-15-2018, 04:25 PM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingCavalier View Post
Looks great, keep those pics coming.
Thanks!
As soon as i do anything on it, i'll update the thread and the pictures are the most interesting bit so there will definitely be plenty of those coming


Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstep192 View Post
Wow! This is really turning out to be a beautiful guitar. Who gets it?
Thanks, yea its really starting to come into its final look now and i'm very happy.
Well, its kinda semi-commissioned, I know someone who is interested in it and if i get a really good price I might take an offer for it, but otherwise it will end up with my dad.
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  #25  
Old 07-16-2018, 04:00 PM
Jim88 Jim88 is offline
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Hi David,

Have you thought about just using a coping saw for your curves,,simple and cheap,,

Enjoying the build hope it continues well for you,

Best
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  #26  
Old 07-16-2018, 08:46 PM
Quickstep192 Quickstep192 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmsone View Post
Thanks!
As soon as i do anything on it, i'll update the thread and the pictures are the most interesting bit so there will definitely be plenty of those coming



Thanks, yea its really starting to come into its final look now and i'm very happy.
Well, its kinda semi-commissioned, I know someone who is interested in it and if i get a really good price I might take an offer for it, but otherwise it will end up with my dad.

Id have a hard time letting that one go.
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  #27  
Old 07-17-2018, 11:52 PM
Zandit75 Zandit75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmsone View Post
stabilised maple end graft
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr
Oh, I like this end wedge design! Something to keep in mind for my own build coming up in September. I'm not looking to use dyed maple like you have, but an abstract design of scrap pieces joined together.
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1995 Maton EM725C - Solid 'A' Spruce Top, QLD Walnut B&S, AP5 Pickup
2015 Ibanez AEL108MD-NT - Laminated Spruce top, Laminated Mahogany B&S, Fishman Sonicore Pickup
2018 Custom Built OM - Silver Quandong Top, Aussie Blackwood B&S, Fishman Matrix Infinity Mic Blend Pickup


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  #28  
Old 07-19-2018, 10:46 AM
brianli408 brianli408 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmsone View Post
Here is another update, and milestone one.
We now have a closed box. I was really hoping to get the binding channels cut today but ran out of time and now I may have to wait until next thursday which is annoying.

Enjoy


The top after being glued on
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

Front of the closed box after the excess was trimmed away
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

Back view after being excess trimmed away
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr

3/4 view
Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr
I am interested to know whether the excess wood can be planed away
Would this damage the grain structure
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  #29  
Old 07-19-2018, 05:35 PM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim88 View Post
Hi David,

Have you thought about just using a coping saw for your curves,,simple and cheap,,

Enjoying the build hope it continues well for you,

Best
Hi Jim,
Perhaps that would be an option but I don't have one and a coping saw is one of those tools i had bad experiences with in the past so its not one of my go to tools. Planes are in the same category, i've been getting back into them with my finger planes, but i think every time in my entire life that i've used a larger plane, i've ended up causing damage and it makes me very nervous about using them. one day if i can afford it i'll buy a good quality plane and then hopefully i will damage less work and might start using them more.
There is actually a smaller band saw in the workshop that has a smaller blade on it that would cut curves better but it got damaged and its been out of commission for months now.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75 View Post
Oh, I like this end wedge design! Something to keep in mind for my own build coming up in September. I'm not looking to use dyed maple like you have, but an abstract design of scrap pieces joined together.
Thanks!
Before installing it I laid out the wedge on its own as per a 'typical' end graft and it looked ok but kinda like the blue was thrown in as an afterthought, so i tried it this way and I think it looks a lot more deliberate and purposefully incorporated.


Quote:
Originally Posted by brianli408 View Post
I am interested to know whether the excess wood can be planed away
Would this damage the grain structure
It would probably be ok, you'd need to watch at which point you need to turn around and plane the other direction. I trimmed the excess on a table router with a bearing cutter and it took me 3 minutes, even then you have to watch which direction you run the grain against the spinning router cutter to avoid grain being ripped out but its fairly straightforward
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  #30  
Old 07-19-2018, 09:16 PM
Zandit75 Zandit75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmsone View Post
Thanks!
Before installing it I laid out the wedge on its own as per a 'typical' end graft and it looked ok but kinda like the blue was thrown in as an afterthought, so i tried it this way and I think it looks a lot more deliberate and purposefully incorporated.
Exactly, looks much better framed like it is.
If it wasn't for the white in the maple, I would have suggesting adding the white purfling as a border right around the wedge. But what you have done is excellent!
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1995 Maton EM725C - Solid 'A' Spruce Top, QLD Walnut B&S, AP5 Pickup
2015 Ibanez AEL108MD-NT - Laminated Spruce top, Laminated Mahogany B&S, Fishman Sonicore Pickup
2018 Custom Built OM - Silver Quandong Top, Aussie Blackwood B&S, Fishman Matrix Infinity Mic Blend Pickup


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